2.3L ('02-'11) Engine remove and build day 2--- 05 Ranger XL 2wdr DOHC 2.3 Auto no AC

[DaveH]

Ready to finally make the last few disconnects and pull that engine. Pulling that starter out was a PIA. BTW not familiar with the forum. Do we open new threads every time or somehow continue on the same thread?

 

[Vindictus]

welcome to TRS
Just use the same post, makes it easier for people to follow you progress

 

[pjtoledo]

I found that looking for alternative ways to access Duratec parts was a big help. I did a lot from underneath.
mine is a manual, but I think yes, that's where you access torque converter nuts.


DO NOT loosen the harmonic balancer bolt
if that is removed the entire engine needs re-timed on a good engine

 

[DaveH]

I found that looking for alternative ways to access Duratec parts was a big help. I did a lot from underneath.
mine is a manual, but I think yes, that's where you access torque converter nuts.


DO NOT loosen the harmonic balancer bolt
if that is removed the entire engine needs re-timed on a good engine

The engine that is coming out was damaged catastrophically. I saw one break in the pan by the #1 cylinder. After getting underneath I found another hole about 2" long by 1" tall and a longer crack to boot at #4 both on the passenger side. I suspect this block is going to metal recycling. I "Hope" I can reuse the cylinder head. Consequently this is going to be a complete rebuild. Crazy thing is this truck was handled beautifully. Everything in it looked new. Water pump (new) , fuel filter still shiny, radiator no gunk at all, frame, brakes, suspension all are in great condition. New upper and lower control arms, tie rods. They put 4.5K into the truck last April. (I have the receipts). Until I get this baby apart I won't be able to determine what went wrong. Oil starvation? Remanufactured engine with a failed component? I did see large yellow lettering on the Trans case and on the engine. I did find a rod cap behind the air box and a spare steering tubing floating behind the existing. Looking forward to day 3 and maybe even setting up for the pull.

 

[DaveH]

I found that looking for alternative ways to access Duratec parts was a big help. I did a lot from underneath.
mine is a manual, but I think yes, that's where you access torque converter nuts.

Yep, I was thinking of next time when removing the starter to just undo it from the block THEN removing the hard to get to nuts on the hot and ground wires. Also thinking about using extensions from the front of the engine area to access those pesky flywheel bolts.
DO NOT loosen the harmonic balancer bolt
if that is removed the entire engine needs re-timed on a good engine
[/QUOTE

 

[DaveH]

welcome to TRS
Just use the same post, makes it easier for people to follow you progress

Stupid question here. When posting a new entry on a thread is there a way other than hit "reply" button?

 

[pjtoledo]

scroll all the way to the bottom and add your message in the big empty box beside your pic & name
then hit post reply

 

[DaveH]

scroll all the way to the bottom and add your message in the big empty box beside your pic & name
then hit post reply

NOW I know............. lol. Thanks..............

 

[pjtoledo]

I must be the dumbest Ass in the world. I'm on Day 4 of the engine removal and it is looking like I have to drop the driveline, drop the transmission cross member and lower the trans enough to access the top bell housing bolts. What a PIA. But---- once gone through this cat will know a lot about the application for sure.

I use a 24" extension with wobbly socket. start at the rear of the tranny and go over the top.

 

[DaveH]

I must be the dumbest Ass in the world. I'm on Day 4 of the engine removal and it is looking like I have to drop the driveline, drop the transmission cross member and lower the trans enough to access the top bell housing bolts. What a PIA. But---- once gone through this cat will know a lot about the application for sure.

 

[DaveH]

I use a 24" extension with wobbly socket. start at the rear of the tranny and go over the top.

Geeze, I'm tired. repeating myself. Thanks again for the information.

 

[pjtoledo]

Geeze, I'm tired. repeating myself. Thanks again for the information.

my wife works in a senior center, she says that's one of the signs

 

[pjtoledo]

scroll back up to #9 for an added pic

 

[JoshuaDonMusk]

Hey dave, i understand this thread is a couple months old, but could you educate me on how you got your crank pulley off in order to pull the timing chain off? i am having a hard time getting mine off on my 03' 2.3 ranger

 

[DaveH]

Hey dave, i understand this thread is a couple months old, but could you educate me on how you got your crank pulley off in order to pull the timing chain off? i am having a hard time getting mine off on my 03' 2.3 ranger

I did everything bassackwards. LOL. I purchased a long 3'x1/4" x 2 1/2" x steel bar drilled it to match the flex plate holes back of the engine. Got it at the steel shop for about 10 bucks. I put short bolts through the bar into the holes and I hand turned the engine until the bar caught on the underneath side of a heavy bench to keep the leverage from just rotating the engine off the floor stand. Used an extension to remove that crank bolt. I did heat it up with map gas torch first and that helped. If your engine is still in the truck there is a removal tool you can purchase online through Amazon. I reversed the bar to install that new bolt. Again, when turning that bolt counterclockwise the bar was under a heavy bench as the engine would just tip with leverage until I put weight on the bar to counter balance. Reversed for the other side (tightening). The tool costs about 65 bucks and I didn't want to spend that much over a one or two use thing. I also built a handheld tool to remove that clutch fan. Rental was expensive too. I've included a photo of the tool from Amazon.