Frame Prep for POR 15 coating

[rumblecloud]

@Vindictus
Thanks for this post. It gives/shows a nice overview of I will encounter when I do mine.

Hard to believe that was over twenty years ago now.

I think we need to know the back story here....

 

[JoshT]

Hard to believe that was over twenty years ago now.

Yes, yes it is.

@Vindictus
Thanks for this post. It gives/shows a nice overview of I will encounter when I do mine.



I think we need to know the back story here....

Google search "herculined my hootus", be prepared for a long read, you'll thank me later.

 

[RobbieD]

Yes, yes it is.



Google search "herculined my hootus", be prepared for a long read, you'll thank me later.

That was about the funniest thing I've ever seen on the internet.

20 years?

Damn!

 

[fastpakr]

I think we need to know the back story here....

How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?!

Alright smart-alecks, no questions :rolleyes: ; just answer the question please. :o BTW, an exceeding speedy reply would be muchly appreciated, thankyewverymuch :D

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Lefty]

I decided I should do something about my rusty Ranger
View attachment 94203 View attachment 94204
pulled the box so I can start on the frame
View attachment 94205 View attachment 94206
started beating and scraping and then took the wire brush to it View attachment 94207 I picked up a cheap electric pressure washer and gave it a bath View attachment 94209View attachment 94210

I pulled the bumper, pulled the wiring back. removed that carbon box fuel thingy mounted on the front of the spare tire carrier and found this View attachment 94211 I have everything here to fix it if I can remember how to weld. It's been 15 years at least.

And more rust View attachment 94215View attachment 94216 I also found these 2 small spots but with POR 15 going on both sides I'm not going to fix them View attachment 94217View attachment 94218

Tonight I went at the rear spring mounts, on a side note i'm really liking this Milwaukie impact gun. Wasn't sure getting the 3/4 drive was the right choice but it twisted those rusty shackles like pretzels.
So out came the Sawzall and cut it off. It looks like the trailor hitch needs to come off so I can get the bolt out of the spring View attachment 94219

Very good!

When it comes to fighting rust, I'm kind of a belt-and-suspenders guy.

I bought a cheap $80.00 media blaster to remove the scaley rust. The blaster will go faster and get into the corners where the wire brush won't reach.

POR 15 works wonders but it will not penetrate the thicker stuff. They've got a product to apply before you paint.

Also POR 15 is only a primer. I bought a couple cans of Rustoleum Rust Encapsulator to go over the top. Spray paints alone won't last long on the frame. They need to be sealed too. Spray polyurethane or urethane will seal and last for a few years.

And if you want your exhaust system to last, It might be worth it to give it a couple coats of Rustoleum high temperature paint. Most spray ceramic coatings do not work as well.

Good luck!

 

[Lefty]

Scrap the whole por15 idea.. I've seen it fail too many times to ever consider the cost & hassle worth it.

Corroseal, then fluid film. If your feeling froggy.. corroseal, implement paint, then fluid film.

You're entirely right. POR 15 is a very good primer, but it doesn't last long.

 

[JoshT]

Very good!

When it comes to fighting rust, I'm kind of a belt-and-suspenders guy.

I bought a cheap $80.00 sand blaster to remove the scaley rust. The blaster will go faster and get in the corners where the wire brush won't reach.

POR 15 works wonders but it will not penetrate the thicker stuff. They've got a product to apply before you paint.

Also POR 15 is good stuff, but only a primer. I bought a couple cans of Rustoleum Rust Encapsulator to go over the top. Most spray paints don't last long on the frame. They need to be sealed too. Spray polyurethane or urethane will seal and last for a while.

And if you want your exhaust system to last, It might be worth it to give it a couple coats of Rustoleum high temperature paint. Most spray ceramic coatings do not work as well.

Good luck!

That size compressor (cfm rating) are you pushing that sand blaster with? I e tried one like that in the past and was not impressed. Always kind of wondered if it was the blaster, the compressor, or the media.

On the media, if that's what you used on you frame, any idea about how much you went through?

 

[Lefty]

That size compressor (cfm rating) are you pushing that sand blaster with? I e tried one like that in the past and was not impressed. Always kind of wondered if it was the blaster, the compressor, or the media.

On the media, if that's what you used on you frame, any idea about how much you went through?

I was not impressed with the blaster either. My compressor held up ok. I'm not sure of CFM. I think I shot at 150LBS. It did not blast the metal back to clean. Maybe it would have if I had more patience. It left some rust on. BUT POR 15 works better when coating a moderate amount of rust. I think I used one pail of media, but i collected and reused the same stuff.

 

[Blmpkn]

Those style blasters aren't the greatest at heavy duty stuff but they do work well and they work decently off the average Joe's oil less compressor.

A pressure pot will take anything down to bare metal.. or no metal at all lol... but you either want a 60+ gallon tank or a head that will do 12+ cfm.. both preferably.

I tried using one on with a 30 gallon rig that only did like 6cfm and it was miserable. I only got like.. 10 seconds of blasting before the compressor would kick on. Next to useless.

 

[Lefty]

Those style blasters aren't the greatest at heavy duty stuff but they do work well and they work decently off the average Joe's oil less compressor.

A pressure pot will take anything down to bare metal.. or no metal at all lol... but you either want a 60+ gallon tank or a head that will do 12+ cfm.. both preferably.

I tried using one on with a 30 gallon rig that only did like 6cfm and it was miserable. I only got like.. 10 seconds of blasting before the compressor would kick on. Next to useless.

It certainly did take a while.

 

[JoshT]

Yeah I was running that one of the "average Joe's oilless compressor". Next time I try it, I intend to have a large tank and high CFM compressor, as well as a pressure pot type blaster. Biggest thing slowing me down on the compressor, I don't have a good place to install it yet.

Was just curious about Lefty's experience and kind of hoping it might have been better than mine. Sounds like it was about the same.

 

[Lefty]

Those style blasters aren't the greatest at heavy duty stuff but they do work well and they work decently off the average Joe's oil less compressor.

A pressure pot will take anything down to bare metal.. or no metal at all lol... but you either want a 60+ gallon tank or a head that will do 12+ cfm.. both preferably.

I tried using one on with a 30 gallon rig that only did like 6cfm and it was miserable. I only got like.. 10 seconds of blasting before the compressor would kick on. Next to useless.

That's a Yes. Performance was "miserable" but in my case, it busted the worst off. If you really want to make it all go away then rent a small compressor or sand blast rig.

And if you want better than POR 15, Eastwood makes a real good 2 part catalyzed/epoxy type primer in an aerosol can.

 

[Lefty]

Yeah I was running that one of the "average Joe's oilless compressor". Next time I try it, I intend to have a large tank and high CFM compressor, as well as a pressure pot type blaster. Biggest thing slowing me down on the compressor, I don't have a good place to install it yet.

Was just curious about Lefty's experience and kind of hoping it might have been better than mine. Sounds like it was about the same.

Yup, but it's good to hear that some of us are trying to save the bottom sides of their Rangers. A cheap blaster is far from ideal, but a lot easier than a wire brush. I'm not sure how long a drill will last with a wire brush attachment either. Rust and bits of brush bristles have a way of getting inside the motor.

 

[TDI Ranger]

In my experience POR 15 will not fail if applied using the whole process and topcoating. I'm going on 14 years now on my VW Rabbit diesel restoration. 150k+ miles later it hasn't failed. The engine and lots of underside parts were coated with it.

If it fails it wasn't done right. I actually have become highly allergic to it from being stupid, applying it with no respirator and not enough ventilation. My airway closes up even with a respirator, and I welp up into a rash with the smallest drop on the skin. I still use it with extreme caution. Be smarter than me.

De- scale, clean, Marine clean, metal prep, POR 15, top coat. One trick I've learned. Top coat before it completely hardens. Apply when you leave a fingerprint but it doesn't transfer to your finger. Chemical bonds are much better than a mechanical bond. You only have a short window so plan accordingly.

 

[Vindictus]

In my experience POR 15 will not fail if applied using the whole process and topcoating. I'm going on 14 years now on my VW Rabbit diesel restoration. 150k+ miles later it hasn't failed. The engine and lots of underside parts were coated with it.

If it fails it wasn't done right. I actually have become highly allergic to it from being stupid, applying it with no respirator and not enough ventilation. My airway closes up even with a respirator, and I welp up into a rash with the smallest drop on the skin. I still use it with extreme caution. Be smarter than me.

De- scale, clean, Marine clean, metal prep, POR 15, top coat. One trick I've learned. Top coat before it completely hardens. Apply when you leave a fingerprint but it doesn't transfer to your finger. Chemical bonds are much better than a mechanical bond. You only have a short window so plan accordingly.

I was going to topcoat it like you said but the can of tremclad I thought was grey is canary yellow. So I'm stuck sanding it before I topcoat it.