getting ready for 92 explorer d35/8.8 swap have questions

[fordxranger]

Like the title says i'm getting ready to swap the axles from a 1992 ford explorer 4.0l/auto/electric case into my 89 ranger ex cab with a 2.9l/mitsu/manual case. The rear swap should go without a hitch i'm not to worried about that. I'm going with a ruff stuff specialties rear swap kit and its just weld perches & shock mounts after the pinion angle is set & remove old/unneeded after everything is setup. What is a good pinion angle for my truck with 1 pc. rear shaft, leveling coils and 4 door explorer springs with the possibility of moving up to a 4" lift in the future? The front is where I have the most questions/concerns and I just want some more reassurance. I'm gonna use my d28 radius arms and get new d35 studs from a ford dealer. The explorer came with auto hubs and I plan to use warn manual jeep hubs and duff rad arm and pivot bushings. From what i've read the jeep hubs go in just like the standard hubs and I just need the spindle lock nut conversion, correct? I don't have lift brackets so i'm using my factory axle pivot brackets for now but will I need to clearance the passenger beam bracket to get more space for the d35 under suspension compression? I feel very stupid even asking but can I get away with running the auto hubs for a little while while I scrounge up cash for the warn hubs and still use 4wd? It's Christmas time and i'm unemployed as well so needless to say i'm broke. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[crawlin91]

i used the ruffstuff kit had to do a few simple modifications-widen the hole on the perches for the leaf pins to fit, and grind some to get the perches and mounts to properly fit the contours of the axle. Also my stock blocks were a little big for the u bolts so I went with F150 blocks which were about an inch shorter.

set up everything the way you want it with the vehicle on its own weight with the perches roughly where you want them bolt up the 8.8 to your driveshaft and check your angles then tack em into place. I raised up the rear end and went through a few gears to check for vibration. then remove the axle and burn your welds home. Do a little on each side at a time so you dont warp your tubes.

 

[fordxranger]

 

[fordxranger]

can anyone give me answers for the front diff?

 

[Destroyer000]

the front shouldnt need to be clearanced .. the dana 35 is a direct swap in the 28... as far as the hubs go i believe you are correct. it wont hurt anything running auto hubs..