halp me!! driveline dilemma

[wakingtowinter]

Had to start a duplicate thread in general discussions because the urgent forum isn't getting much traffic and this is my DD so I need info quick. Sorry for the clutter, mods can delete my other thread.


So I finally got around to rolling the truck in the garage to swap in my M5OD HD from my old truck. Dropped the drivelines and transmission cross member and when I started looking at the tailhousing, t-case linkage etc. I started wondering whether it was going to work as easily as I thought. So I pulled out a measuring tape and found out that my M5OD is about 29" long, where the FM145 is about 26" long. Damn. I know, stupid way to go about doing this. So this might be a dumb question but how does this play out? It looks like there are multiple holes for the cross member to bolt in, probably the factory holes as well as new ones (at some point this truck was converted from automatic). Even if I have to make new holes, that's not a big deal. But what about the drivelines? So the rear needs to be shortened 3" and the front needs to be lengthened 3"? Will just about any driveline shop do this for me and what might the cost be? Also what's the scoop on the t-case linkage? Will it work or will I need one from an FX4? I have an adapter bracket to use on the tranny for the bungs, I'm just talking about the length of the linkage. Thanks in advance guys.

tl;dr: M5OD won't just bolt in like I thought, will I need new drivelines?

 

[heptofite]

get the rear shaft shortend, front lengthened, and move the crossmember to the holes farthest from the engine.

the linkage mounted to the side of the current tranny will work fine.

 

[Earl43P]

Should have an access panel under the carpet to modify or replace.

Call around the JYs looking for drive shafts from Rangers in your new config..
Take a tape measure with you or have them verify length and couplings. Might sneak in an upgrade there too.

Probably cheaper than the labor on shortening/lengthening, plus the time to get that done (DD).

Car-parts.com doesn't "list" drive shafts, but most junkyards have a locater service.

 

[wakingtowinter]

That's a good idea. And I'll probably just focus on the rear now and worry about the front when I'm up and running again. So I'll be looking for a rear driveshaft out of a 98+ 4x4 supercab...Is a stock shaft going to work with the amount of lift I have? I am running factory blocks, lift springs and the belltech shackles.

 

[adsm08]

Read this:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71203&highlight=M5OD




The one-piece shaft is what guys swap to when they get up over 8" of lift. Unless you have about 20" you will be fine.

 

[wakingtowinter]

Nice, that's what I needed, thank you. So I've read some more about this and from what I understand the master cylinders are the same, but the connection to the slave is different. I have a 94 parts truck that was a manual. Would the easiest thing be to just take the NSS and master and line off that and stick it in the 92?

 

[99RangerKrazy]

If you can, I would try to keep that driveshaft that was on the truck (just get it shortened). I had it custom made after I was done lifting it, it had new u-joints and it's thicker walled and bigger in diameter than stock driveshafts.

In these neck of the woods, it costs about $50 to get it shortened.

 

[wakingtowinter]

Yeah, that's what I ended up doing. It's a pretty nice driveline so I didn't want to see it go. Plus, being a custom driveline, I don't think I could have sold it to anyone. I took it to Drivelines NW, a very reputable shop here in Tacoma and they did it for me. But I got the swap done and put the shaft back in and my measurements were pretty much dead on. For the front driveline I just used the one off of my 94 parts truck, which was almost 2 inches longer than the original, and that fit perfectly also.

Actually I tried to get a one-piece out of a 98+ from the junkyard but for some reason when I told the guy I was putting it into a 92, he wouldn't let me have it unless I took the driveline down there to have them compare it. I don't get that. I was trying to give them my money...

 

[99RangerKrazy]

Yeah I hate places that like that. It doesn't make any sense. Apparently they don't really need more business.

 

[AllanD]

Nice, that's what I needed, thank you. So I've read some more about this and from what I understand the master cylinders are the same, but the connection to the slave is different. I have a 94 parts truck that was a manual. Would the easiest thing be to just take the NSS and master and line off that and stick it in the 92?

There are TWO slave cylinders used on the Mazda transmission

the 1988-92 and the 1993-up (there are later variations but these don't affect interchangability)

The Mastercylinder from 1983-92 is the same, they never shanged it.
they changed the line several times.

The 1988-92 Line used a "black" (typically fades to purple but some are red)coupler at the slave cylinder end

The 1993-up master uses a "gold" (yellow) connector.

the 1983-92 master is not really suitable for the 1993-up slave
because when ford redesigned the parts they designed the 1993-94 slave with a smaller bore and if you do get it completely bled the clutch action is VERY quick. this means the complete release in happens in around 1" of pedal
travel and if you forget and push the pedal all the way to the floor you'll probably break something.


the 1983-92 master bolts directly to the firewall, the 1993-94 Master cylinder twist locks into a metal mounting cup.

the 1995-up master cylinder is similar but twist locks into the pedal support inside the cab and has a gromett on it's body to seal against the firewall)

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