cp2295
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2013
- Messages
- 1,027
- Reaction score
- 7
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Washougal, wa
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0L swap, 8.8 explorer axle, IFS front end
- Transmission
- Manual
- My credo
- If you ain't first you're last
Hi everyone, got an 86 bronco 2 2.9. There is one electrical component located on the wiring harness drivers side where it runs between the engine and fender well. It has a green wire going to it on either end, and when the loom is on the harness it sticks out of it. I have never seen one like it and it has no part number that I can see. A link to a pic of the part https://postimg.org/image/3k6gi3utv/ , it has no continuity and it also does not give me any reading when I set my multimeter to diode mode.
As for the sputtering issue Heres some background:
Prior to my issues I have recently replaced:
-Main ground cable from battery to block, and I added one from the block to the frame as I didn’t see any hooked up.
-distributor, tfi module, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and ignition coil (separate issue that the dizzy took care of)
-fuel filters
-exhaust system
-some other stuff I can’t think of right now lol
She’s been running pretty bad recently when I take her out wheeling, last weekend after I’d been up there for a bit it started acting up. Couldn’t make it 50 yards before it’d start sputtering then clear and repeat till I could get on good ground to inspect. Quick inspection led me to find a loose terminal on the starter solenoid that fed power to lots of wires (and fusible links). Tightened it up and away I went, all was good for about an hour, until the truck sat and idled for a bit. As soon as I went to take off it happened again, and kept happening once a couple minutes at least until I could get to the service road and keep it cruising at a normal speed. On the way home it drove fine, until I’d get to a stoplight and have to sit for a bit-it was pretty inconsistent though some stoplights it would take off fine. Stopped off at a parts store to grab something real quick and it was okay until I was already in traffic (of course) and it really sputtered hard, and backfired (though it could have been a explosion in the exhaust from unburnt fuel).
So basically what I’m thinking is it starts loading up when it’s sitting for a bit and not getting any flow. Although the sputtering seems more like a bad electrical connection.
Well now it’s in the garage and after a good amount of research I’ve come up with a few solutions:
-bad ect sensor
-bad act sensor
-bad wiring/grounds
-semi clogged fuel injectors
-faulty map sensor
But I know those can’t be the fix all solutions.
According to various forums my ect sensor should read approx ~41k ohms at 65 degrees and 2.78k ohms at operating temp. I could not find a chart of values, but my ect and act both read 440k and 390k ohms at ambient air temp which over here right now is 50 degrees roughly. Sounds a bit off someone chime in with values if possible.
Next I pulled the egr valve to find it caked with carbon. With no vacuum applied it leaks through which would cause a pretty severe vacuum leak. The hose that goes to the dpfe sensor also is brittle and loose, I figure I will just make a block off plate to rule out all of the egr nonsense for now-who knows if all the sensors are corresponding like they should. If it pings too much (or 92 octane wont cure it) I’ll fix the egr system, but it shouldn’t make it sputter I assume.
Next I inspected the wiring. This is where it gets really ugly. Most all of the plugs on either fender well are caked with what appears to be old dielectric grease that looks almost corrosive now. Among this there are a few wires which have lost their rubber shielding near the connector. I haven’t even check to make sure the pins are tight in their slots-yikes. I checked to ensure all fusible links have continuity, which they do. I’m going to clean all the connections and bare wires as they are horrendous-I’m surprised the thing ran after looking at these, don’t want to say it but this is almost worse than Chrysler electronics hahaha. Grounds appear to be okay, one on the back of the head is clean and tight, as is the one on the intake manifold. One ground needs attention so I will take care of that (body to exhaust manifold pass side). Ground by ecu is good.
I also tested the tps sensor and it seems to check out good, 0.9v and smoothly raises to about 4.8v at WOT. As far as the map goes I am unsure of how to test it, apparently you need a multimeter that does hertz, I’ll check if my strap-on meter has that mode at work tomorrow. Injectors could very well be an issue, but I want to fix the things I have found first before diving into that. Well that about does it for this essay let me know what you guys think, thanks.
-Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As for the sputtering issue Heres some background:
Prior to my issues I have recently replaced:
-Main ground cable from battery to block, and I added one from the block to the frame as I didn’t see any hooked up.
-distributor, tfi module, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and ignition coil (separate issue that the dizzy took care of)
-fuel filters
-exhaust system
-some other stuff I can’t think of right now lol
She’s been running pretty bad recently when I take her out wheeling, last weekend after I’d been up there for a bit it started acting up. Couldn’t make it 50 yards before it’d start sputtering then clear and repeat till I could get on good ground to inspect. Quick inspection led me to find a loose terminal on the starter solenoid that fed power to lots of wires (and fusible links). Tightened it up and away I went, all was good for about an hour, until the truck sat and idled for a bit. As soon as I went to take off it happened again, and kept happening once a couple minutes at least until I could get to the service road and keep it cruising at a normal speed. On the way home it drove fine, until I’d get to a stoplight and have to sit for a bit-it was pretty inconsistent though some stoplights it would take off fine. Stopped off at a parts store to grab something real quick and it was okay until I was already in traffic (of course) and it really sputtered hard, and backfired (though it could have been a explosion in the exhaust from unburnt fuel).
So basically what I’m thinking is it starts loading up when it’s sitting for a bit and not getting any flow. Although the sputtering seems more like a bad electrical connection.
Well now it’s in the garage and after a good amount of research I’ve come up with a few solutions:
-bad ect sensor
-bad act sensor
-bad wiring/grounds
-semi clogged fuel injectors
-faulty map sensor
But I know those can’t be the fix all solutions.
According to various forums my ect sensor should read approx ~41k ohms at 65 degrees and 2.78k ohms at operating temp. I could not find a chart of values, but my ect and act both read 440k and 390k ohms at ambient air temp which over here right now is 50 degrees roughly. Sounds a bit off someone chime in with values if possible.
Next I pulled the egr valve to find it caked with carbon. With no vacuum applied it leaks through which would cause a pretty severe vacuum leak. The hose that goes to the dpfe sensor also is brittle and loose, I figure I will just make a block off plate to rule out all of the egr nonsense for now-who knows if all the sensors are corresponding like they should. If it pings too much (or 92 octane wont cure it) I’ll fix the egr system, but it shouldn’t make it sputter I assume.
Next I inspected the wiring. This is where it gets really ugly. Most all of the plugs on either fender well are caked with what appears to be old dielectric grease that looks almost corrosive now. Among this there are a few wires which have lost their rubber shielding near the connector. I haven’t even check to make sure the pins are tight in their slots-yikes. I checked to ensure all fusible links have continuity, which they do. I’m going to clean all the connections and bare wires as they are horrendous-I’m surprised the thing ran after looking at these, don’t want to say it but this is almost worse than Chrysler electronics hahaha. Grounds appear to be okay, one on the back of the head is clean and tight, as is the one on the intake manifold. One ground needs attention so I will take care of that (body to exhaust manifold pass side). Ground by ecu is good.
I also tested the tps sensor and it seems to check out good, 0.9v and smoothly raises to about 4.8v at WOT. As far as the map goes I am unsure of how to test it, apparently you need a multimeter that does hertz, I’ll check if my strap-on meter has that mode at work tomorrow. Injectors could very well be an issue, but I want to fix the things I have found first before diving into that. Well that about does it for this essay let me know what you guys think, thanks.
-Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited: