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cbxer55

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Started right up this morning. Running GREAT! Runs through the rev band with elan. Loving it.

Now to start getting parts together for a front end rebuild. I don't know how it happened, but somehow the bolts through the end links of the front sway bar have stretched. Don't know what else to call it. Nuts under the lower control arm are snug against the arm. But the bolt heads are protruding about one inch out the top of the arm. Odd! They turn freely, but I cannot get the nuts off. Appears like I am going to have to cut the bolt heads off, remove the entire bar, and see what needs to be done to get the rest of the bolts out. Tried hammering the bolt heads down, won't budge.
 


stmitch

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Regarding the end link, it sounds like one of the bushings has either shrunken or broken off completely. Worst case scenario, you can cut the end link in the middle, and remove everything.
 

cbxer55

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Truck is running great and starting well. Except for last night. For some reason it would not start in PARK. Nothing at all, no cranking. Shifted it to NEUTRAL and it fired right up.

That's happened once before, several months ago. Don't know for now how repetitive this is going to be. Is this something in the steering column related to the shifter cable?
 

cbxer55

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Regarding the end link, it sounds like one of the bushings has either shrunken or broken off completely. Worst case scenario, you can cut the end link in the middle, and remove everything.
Yes, swapped out the end links yesterday. Auto Zone has the Energy Suspension components and had the correct length for the front end. Had to cut one of the old ones off, as it would not turn or come out of the sleeve the bolt runs through. When I had it all off, there were only four bushings for both sides, should have been eight.

After doing this swap, my front end is so quiet once again. No more squeaking, and no more occasional bangs, which I assume were the bar end moving up and down on the bolt. Also the feeling like the truck was going to get away from me at speed on the highway is gone. Took it for a drive around my favorite twisty road, MAN! What a difference. Feels like it's on rails. Loved it.

A friend has a 2000 Ranger, looked at his last night as he is complaining about front end noise. He's also complaining about it handling like a tuna boat on the highway. Both his end links are shot, missing bushings on both sides. Going to fix his up next weekend.

Prior to doing the swap, my truck would make horrible noises just getting into or out of it. Now it's totally quiet. Makes me wonder about the ball joints now, as my front tires are not really showing any unusual wear. Just like my Lightning, the front tires wear more on the inside than the outside, and once a year or so I have them turned inside out to even things out. Maybe it needs some camber bolts? It's not lowered at all though.
 
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Rearanger

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it would not start in PARK.
There is a neutral safety switch (NSS) in the shifter, looks like the Park position is not making contact. You may be able to take it apart and clean the contacts.
 

cbxer55

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It's been fine today, hasn't happened again. Started first turn of the key four times so far. Seems to be a random event for now.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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It's kinda funny that I've been watching this thread, I now have a 4.0 Ranger that's acting similar. It's getting new plugs and wires hopefully tomorrow, we'll see what that does to help. It got a new IAC today because that was sticking.


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cbxer55

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Hopefully yours ends up being something simple as well.

On mine, I guess I can understand that certain types of plugs just have no staying power. Experienced similar things with Split Fires years ago on my motorcycles. Should have known better than to let some cat in a Vato Zone talk me into stupid plugs like E-3's. My bad. Didn't even last a year and 5,000 miles and they were toast. STUPID.

The injectors not getting an ample supply of fuel? Hmmm! I've been a regular user of injector cleaner in the tank, every couple tankfuls. Why would they get glopped up almost immediately after a fuel pump and filter change? So I stirred things up changing the pump. The filter should have not let anything get past it. :icon_confused:
 
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lil_Blue_Ford

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New plugs and wires are in. Seemed to start and idle better, but the real test will be when I go out tomorrow


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cbxer55

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New plugs and wires are in. Seemed to start and idle better, but the real test will be when I go out tomorrow


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Yeah, that was how mine was for awhile. Didn't know, from day to day, if it would start or not.
 

cbxer55

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Started being difficult to start again today. Didn't kill the battery starting it, and I'm certain it's not the plugs now since they were replaced on the 10th. Fairly certain the injectors somehow or another got glopped up once again. Filled the tank and put another can of injector cleaner in, drove it for 30 minutes. Will let it sit today and see what happens tomorrow.

If they are plugged up again, so soon, guess I'm just going to have to break down and do it right. Remove the intake, throttle body, and upper intake manifold, remove the fuel rail, remove the injectors and have them professionally cleaned. Replace all the vacuum hoses under there while it's apart.

Someone once told me that probably what was happening is there is a glaze on the end of the injectors. When it's cold, it's hard and the fuel has to beat a hole into it to start. Once warmed up, the glaze softens. which allows the engine to start while hot. Once cooled off, the glaze hardens and it's difficult to start again. Sounds like that might be the problem. Don't know how many others have had this issue, and why it occurs in the first place.
 

stmitch

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Is your truck flex fuel? If it is, and you have access to e85, it's the best fuel system cleaner going for the money. If you decide to try it, just make sure that you phase it in slowly with partial mixes first. Going directly to 100% e85 can loosen up sludge in the fuel system too quickly that breaks loose and clogs injectors.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Well, I'm right there with you in starting problems, lol. Wednesday I went out for awhile, it started and ran great except PATS seemed to take a temporary dislike to my key a couple times, both warm and cold engines. I'm working on getting new keys.

Yesterday I had to go run and take care of a few things. Fired right up cold, seemed to run good. But every time I stopped somewhere, when I went to start the still warm truck, it would crank, fire, and die. Didn't matter if you tried to push the gas pedal or turn off accessories. Spit out codes for bank 1 and bank 2 lean when it did that the first time. The more stops I made, the harder it got to get going. At one point I let it sit long enough to get completely cold, and it fired right up.


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cbxer55

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Have you checked your trucks fuel pressure lately. If the pump is bad, you will get the lean codes fairly rapidly. I had them last year, and spraying brake cleaner under the hood showed no vacuum leaks. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and it showed pressure fine when first started, but as it got hotter, the pressure dropped fast. When first started, after sitting for awhile, it would show minimum pressure of 54 psi. After idling for 10 minutes it would be down in the upper 30's. Obviously, as the pump got hotter, the pressure fell off.

This would happen whether the engine was hot, or cold. Depended on how long it sat, giving the pump a chance to cool off. It will cool off fast due to being immersed in fuel.

Another thing, it would not take throttle happily when the pressure was low. Shut it off for 10 minutes, and it would be fine for a few minutes, then rinse and repeat.

I'd be looking at your fuel pressure and a new fuel pump.
 

cbxer55

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As for mine, after the difficulty starting yesterday, I went and topped off the tank adding a can of injector cleaner. Drove it for awhile, then stuck it in the garage and drove my Lightning to work. When I got home last night, it fired right up, no problemo. So, obviously I have injectors that keep plugging up for some reason. Not sure why, you would think the fuel filter would keep the dirties at bay.

Anyhow, rainy season is coming up here, and I need my Ranger so my Lightning can stay clean and dry. Sometime during the summer, assuming injector cleaner keeps it running, I will be removing the upper intake so I can take the injectors out and get them professionally cleaned.

The problem I had in January was the same, exacerbated by faulty plugs. With good plugs, I can get it started. It just takes extended cranking. Injector cleaner seems to keep it at bay. For the time being, that will have to suffice.
 

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