How long does it usually take to remove a 90 Ranger front differential carrier

[greaseyfingers]

After reading the information procedure on Removal Of Carrier And Slip Yoke:

How many bolts are there securing the carrier to the support arm..

Is the support arm that they're referring to, the axle arm, on the passenger side, which connects the twin traction carrier beam to the frame's cross member, where the axle arm is attached by a threaded section going through a big rubber hole and held together with a pretty large nut, about 7/8" in size..

Where is the shear bolt located, securing the carrier to the axle arm, which it says to tighten to 75-95 ft. lbs.

And is it just one bolt they're talking about..

I'm hoping, you'll explain this in a more understandable way, than the information that I read below..



Removal Of Carrier And Slip Yoke:

1) Jack up the vehicle, secure it on jack stands, and remove the front wheels.

2) Remove the nuts and U-bolts connecting the driveshaft to the yoke.

3) Remove the spindles and axle shafts as described above.

4) Place a jack under the carrier. Remove the bolts securing the carrier to the support arm. Separate the carrier from the support arm and drain the carrier.

5) Rotate the slip yoke and shaft assembly so the open side of the snap ring is exposed. Remove the snap ring from the shaft.

6) Remove the slip yoke and shaft assembly from the carrier.

7) Remove the oil seal and caged needle bearing.

Installation:

1) Clean and inspect the bearing bore. Drive the bearing in until it's fully seated in to the bore.

2) Coat the oil seal with multi-purpose grease and drive it in to the carrier housing.

3) Install the slip yoke and shaft assembly into the carrier so that the snap ring groove in the shaft is visible.

4) Install the snap ring in the groove and make sure it is completely seated in the groove.

5) Clean all traces of gasket sealant from the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or gasket remover. Apply RTV sealant in a 1/4 inch wide bead. The bead should be continuous and not pass through or outside the holes.

6) Position the carrier on the transmission jack and install it in to position on the support arm. Use the guide pins for alignment. Install and tighten the bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs.

7) Install the shear bolt securing the carrier to the axle arm and tighten to 75-95 ft. lbs.

8) Install the shaft, joints, and spindles.

9) Connect the driveshaft. Tighten the U-joint straps to 8-15 ft. lbs.

10) Fill the carrier with Hypoid lubricant. Trak-Lok limited slips add 4oz. of friction modifier.

11) Install the front wheels.

 

[brinker88]

http://www.rangerforum.net/f36/replace-3rd-member-ttb-d35-discussion-thread-869/

Here's a writeup I did awhile back.

 

[bobbywalter]

stock depending on if it has sways...about 45 min.

i just yank the beam and zip it apart....i dont even pull the rotor off.


thats when its just getting specifically into the pumpkin.

 

[greaseyfingers]

http://www.rangerforum.net/f36/replace-3rd-member-ttb-d35-discussion-thread-869/

Here's a writeup I did awhile back.

*Now is the time that I put the FRAME of the truck on jackstands and let the axle hang loose. Some of the folks I've discussed this next step with would remove the driver side radius arm and coil. Others say to just simply "notch" your radius arm to remove the alignment bolt on the 3rd member. I chose to notch the radius arm. This is where your air cut off wheel comes in handy as a regular grinder/cutoff wheel wont fit.*


Tyring to figure out, ahead of time, what work would be involved for removing the differential carrier, before reading your information..

My deductive reason lead me to think, also, either the driver's side radius arm and coil would have to be removed, unless it can swung out of the way, or to torch out the radius arm, enough, to remove the alignment bolt of the 3rd member, as you mentioned doing by notching it with a air cut off wheel..

You, also, mentioned, in step, (8.) Unbolt the passenger side axle pivot bolt and remove. Push up as FAR as it will go (about 1.5 inches).

Why does step, (8.), need to done..

What's the purpose of doing this step..

Does it provide more clearance for removing the carrier..

Do you have any idea how much the differential carrier actually weighs, when removing it..

Can it be lifted back in place, when re installing, or is it too heavy..

 

[bobbywalter]

notching the radius arm is patently retarded...but workable. i do it radiused when i have to when at all possible.


theres like 5 bolts and two caliper pins to yank the whole assembly after you loosen the axle to arm bolts...a reg propane torch makes that a breeze.



with the assembly out you can loosen the radius arm bolts a bit more to move it out of the way. while the piglet is out and running free i remove the edge on the drivers side of the pinch bolt slot for future pulls. with after market suspension i only have to pull the drivers pivot bolt and shock upper to pull the diff...good thing too cause i fawked alot of spiders up in the d35.

i have found it quicker and easier to remove it as an assembly in any case....with a wide mason chisel you can knock the slot edge off too so you dont even have to loosen the radius arm or remove totally the pinch bolt.


just throwing that out there.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

the pumpkin is aluminum, not heavy.

Richard

 

[greaseyfingers]

Is removing the differential carrier the easiest, or only way to replace the u joint on the differential stub shaft slip yoke, that the passenger's side splined axle end, slides into..

Can this u joint, as mentioned, be changed by using a ball joint press, or air chisel with a blunt end, to force the u joint caps, out of the slip yoke..

 

[bobbywalter]

i replace them in the truck sometimes....it sux depending on what actual yokes you have...theres a flatter type that a bj press works great on.


torching out the old one is usually the fastest way depending on whether or not your in the salt belt and if its been in there since it was born.

a good air hammer with a steady experienced hand makes quick work of them as well.

have simply hammered em in the woods on the trail as well....

 

[AgPete139]

http://www.rangerforum.net/f36/replace-3rd-member-ttb-d35-discussion-thread-869/

Here's a writeup I did awhile back.

How come this isn't in the TRS Library? I think this would be an excellent addition!

Brinker, please submit that to Jim.

 

[bobbywalter]

depending on what needs done pulling the beam is sometimes easier. its easier to clean it all up and reseal it out of the truck...


adding the drain plug is a good thing to do when its out too.

 

[Dugan]

http://www.rangerforum.net/f36/replace-3rd-member-ttb-d35-discussion-thread-869/

Here's a writeup I did awhile back.

Holy cracked d35 batman