how reliable are the v6 3.0

[DakarMarc]

Hey Kawasakiman

I bought a truck off of a friend that the stealer told him had a fried engine, turned out that all it was was a cam syncro. He was quick enough with shutting the engine down that after a put in a new cam syncro, the engine was saved and runs great. I put up a post on Ranger Power sports about the whole thing, and there was a very good write up about how to do the swap. VERY VERY easy to do, even for those of us that can't quite figure out what an engine is.

Anyway when the site is back up, they seem to be having problems lately I will post a link so you can check out what I did. Here is a picture of my cam syncro:

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And from the research that I have done, yes the Dorman ones are crap, well worth the wait to find a motocraft or motocraft rebuild one. Any questions you got about the procedure, sent me a pm.


Marc

 

[Toms01PSD]

I went and got one from the dealership for like $189 with the cam sensor. I borrowed the alignment tool which is completely useless. All you have to do is pay attention to where the little "flag" is and line it up the same way. I used chalk to mark 2 spots on the block where two of the notches lined up and took a pic where the flag was and I pulled it out. Simply lined it back up with the notches to the chalk mark and made sure the flag was lined up and put it all back together. The only thing hard about it is the location. Also Dak, my cam syncro had no missing teeth or chips/metal shavings anywhere on it. Is there a bearing inside it or something because that's what was squeaking and it felt stiff. Engine seems to run a little better too.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you really didnt need to replace the came sensor too.

how is the alignment tool useless? it coulndt be simpler. install alignment tool. set engine to TDC compression. drop syncronizer in with arrow pointed toward front of engine. simple.

the synco shaft rides on a bushing that wears out. if yours turns stiffly and/or noisily, then it was on its way out.

 

[kawasakiman27]

you really didnt need to replace the came sensor too.

how is the alignment tool useless? it coulndt be simpler. install alignment tool. set engine to TDC compression. drop syncronizer in with arrow pointed toward front of engine. simple.

the synco shaft rides on a bushing that wears out. if yours turns stiffly and/or noisily, then it was on its way out.

Isn't it that simple on a 5.0 but not on a 3.0. From what I understand is, If you put it TDC on a 3.0, you'll be out of time and get an eng light accompanied by crappy fuel mileage destroying your valve train and possibly ruining your cat after some time.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

its that easy.

an out of time cam sensor wont destroy anything. it will cause long cranks, poor performance and fuel economy, and likely drivability concerns

 

[kawasakiman27]

So your saying put it TDC compression, tool on synchro, drop in and tighten? That would be too easy. Plus you'd still get an idiot light.

 

[Toms01PSD]

you really didnt need to replace the came sensor too.

how is the alignment tool useless? it coulndt be simpler. install alignment tool. set engine to TDC compression. drop syncronizer in with arrow pointed toward front of engine. simple.

the synco shaft rides on a bushing that wears out. if yours turns stiffly and/or noisily, then it was on its way out.

Well, before I pulled it out or loosened the hold down bolt, I made marks on the block where the notches in the shaft were. Simply paid attention to where the little flag was, pulled it out, lined up the notches with the new shaft and made sure the flag was in the same spot, slid it back in and it worked fine. I didn't have to set TDC compression or anything. Aslong as you pay attention its idiot proof.

 

[Rearanger]

I didn't have to set TDC compression or anything.

I think the advantage of setting TDCC is that if you need to work on the engine in the future where TDCC is required, then the marks are already there and you won't have to scribe/punch/make new marks, which could prove to be confusing. What happens if you need to remove/replace cam syncro again and the engine doesn't stop on the exact spot as the last time?

 

[Toms01PSD]

What happens if you need to remove/replace cam syncro again and the engine doesn't stop on the exact spot as the last time?

I'll make new marks with chalk...

 

[DakarMarc]

I think you guys seem to be making the whole job more confusing that it needs to be. Either don't touch the engine, and put the new cam syncro in exactly as the old one came out, or pull the old one out and the heck with the engine position. Find compression TDC of #1 cylinder, line up the marks at 0 degrees on the timing ring with the black camshaft position sensor. Then install the syncro and make sure that the little tab is in the middle.


For me there was no out of time, and no idiot lights either.

Check out here for some pics and a longer explanation.


http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226289&highlight=replacing+cam+sync

 

[kawasakiman27]

I cant just mark and replace its not the original engine and ive had a single p1309 code for three years now (I know the cmp is installed incorrectly). chilton and haynes both say different as do most people on this site. Just confusing. You guys say you dont get an eng light putting it in at 0 TDC thats what im gonna check for or do. If that dont get rid of the light Ill change the ECM. Than ill keep trying to reset the monitor till the light doesnt come back. The EPA has made us motorheads lives a nightmare with this obd2 crap!

 

[Toms01PSD]

I cant just mark and replace its not the original engine

What does that have to do with anything? It's still a 3.0 isn't it?

 

[RumpRanger98]

So Im taking my truck to my cousin, who owns and runs his own shop, has always done honest, 150% good quality work for me. If only I had more than a week experience with this truck Id do it myself. But I have a worse than I originally thought oil leak from the valve cover...I think, driver side. And I have the slight squeak this cam synch does when it starts to go bad. Im nervous to do it. And I don't have the familiarity with the engine yet to feel comfortable about taking all the stuff off to replace the valve cover seal or whatever is leaking oil. So Im going to have him do both of these for me on monday. Also having him change the oil in my front and rear differentials? whatever they're called, sry im new to this.

I just wiped the underneath clean, and put new fliter on and ran it for like 5 minutes, and I already got oil running down to the bottom. Im pretty sure I put the oil filter on tight, by the way, what the **** was ford thinking with putting the oil filter there?

anyways, is it possible for the valve covers to leak enough to cause the leak to run and drippage at bottom(ends up running down starter/ where engine/tranny meet) within a few minutes??

 

[kawasakiman27]

What does that have to do with anything? It's still a 3.0 isn't it?

Its does matter because the guy that sold it to me three years ago must have installed the syncro wrong when he replaced the motor. The only possible causes for my eng light are out of sync cps or an ecm failure or incorrect perameters set in ecm. Especially with this code by itself, if i had two codes it would be easier to narrow the prob down.

 

[kawasakiman27]

Haha this guy who started this thread is probably all nervous now to own one of these trucks.