Jballard81's 1994 super cab 4.0 4x4 Restore

[RobbieD]

It looks aftermarket, but likely a dealer installed peice.

When you can get at it good, see if you can find, and jot down, the FCC ID number.

 

[rumblecloud]

SOmething you mentioned earlier in this string made me think that your truck had a remote start somewhere along the line. I disregarded that thought cuz I just assumed you would have noticed the extra wiring when you were futzing with the ignition --- that and I didn't want to sound like an idiot.

I think it was something about the door locks activating...
Anyway, good find.

 

[jballard81]

It looks aftermarket, but likely a dealer installed peice.

When you can get at it good, see if you can find, and jot down, the FCC ID number.

If this little slip of paper i found is to be believed, the FCC ID is: GOH-052-RMTPL FCC Link
PAT# 5,049,867

has what i assume is a date of 8/92 on it as well.

Google Fu is strong today. found some interesting stuff from a Subaru guy:

The Subie Alarm Project

Here's the dip switch settings from the above site (for posterity sake)

I would imagine they are similar for all cars that use this keyless entry module. Will have to get out there and do some testing soon.

possible programming guide: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/dealer-installed-keyless.190317/

 

[RobbieD]

As your link leads to, FCC ID #s can be looked up on the FCC website. "GOH" is for equipment made by Code-Alarm Inc.; I'm not sure if they're still around or not.

A lot of times you can access manuals, diagrams and pictures this way, but these ancient systems are "iffy" on having support materials on the FCC site.

The problem that you're going to run into will be finding a working remote control transmitter which will work with that receiver module (which is 30+ years old in unknown condition). An OEM Ford likely won't code into the module, I'm pretty sure.

If you are wanting to have keyless entry, honestly, "if it were me", I'd just buy a new RKE system and take advantadge of the wiring that was done in the truck for the original RKE. That route would also probably cost less than buying an old remote that may or may not work.

 

[jballard81]

As your link leads to, FCC ID #s can be looked up on the FCC website. "GOH" is for equipment made by Code-Alarm Inc.; I'm not sure if they're still around or not.

A lot of times you can access manuals, diagrams and pictures this way, but these ancient systems are "iffy" on having support materials on the FCC site.

The problem that you're going to run into will be finding a working remote control transmitter which will work with that receiver module (which is 30+ years old in unknown condition). An OEM Ford likely won't code into the module, I'm pretty sure.

If you are wanting to have keyless entry, honestly, "if it were me", I'd just buy a new RKE system and take advantadge of the wiring that was done in the truck for the original RKE. That route would also probably cost less than buying an old remote that may or may not work.

dug into it some more and found that this 'should' be the equivalent fob: https://www.amazon.com/Code-Alarm-CRCX3-Replacement-Transmitter/dp/B0074JYVXW

the previous owner gave me a 4 button fob, which after googling it's FCCID (CWTWB1U331), was meant for a 315hz system not a 314hz system like this Code-Alarm system. I'm going to try and find the re-program button on this box and see if it will accept the remote i have (doubtful). After that, i will risk the $25 for the replacement remote from Amazon and try that out.

if that fails, i will dig out an RKE from an Exploder next time I'm in the boneyard.

Also, I believe @rumblecloud was right that this is what's causing the doors to lock. which is good b/c i was really starting to questing my sanity on the door switches.

 

[RobbieD]

It's not just the radio frequency, there's also encoding within the carrier frequency. The coding is usually manufacturer-specific.

The problem is, that there was a shipload of RKE makers during 1990s. There was a huge aftermarket at that time, before the carmakers figured out that they were missing the money boat, and started building in their own in-house RKE systems. That's why aftermarket systems were OEM-branded and sold through dealerships during this period.

Typically, the FCC ID #s between a transmitter and reciever pair will match, except for an "T" in one, and "R" in the other.

I hope that you get lucky on getting a working remote for the box already in the truck. Based on how I remember some of these old RKE systems working for remote programming, you might try experimenting with cycling the ignition key a number of times, or disconnecting and reconnecting power to the module. Typically the system will cycle the door locks, to indicate that it's ready to learn the transmission from the new remote.

And keep googling, trying for "instructions" added to the subject query.

 

[SenorNoob]

See, that's good to know! Though I'm curious if you had some other body panel off or I did this completely wrong bc I don't know how I would be able to tighten the hinge to door bolts with it closed...
I only loosened the bolts on the door side of the hinge, used a jack and block of wood to lift the bottom of the door up, adjusted the top hinge until it was pulled in closer to the frame (then lightly snugged the bolts), then I adjusted the bottom hinge until it was pulled out a bit and snugged the bolts.
Then I would check the door and gaps see how wrong it was and try again. And again, and then a little more

Only way I've found to reach the hinge bolts is to have the fender off. On my 88 it's pretty easy. Takes maybe 20 minutes.

 

[rumblecloud]

...the previous owner gave me a 4 button fob, which after googling it's FCCID (CWTWB1U331), was meant for a 315hz system not a 314hz system like this Code-Alarm system. I'm going to try and find the re-program button on this box and see if it will accept the remote i have (doubtful). After that, i will risk the $25 for the replacement remote from Amazon and try that out.

Thinking out loud here so bear with me
You have a '94, I have a '94. I am the original owner and had a Code Alarm system installed in '99. It's still functional and I still use it.
I have a PDF of the installation instructions I can email to you if you'd like. The system I had installed is a SureStart LX. I see that the Key Fob you linked to is compatible with SURESTARTSE, SURESTARTSE433. The instructions include wiring colors, some diagrams and covers pretty much everything, including door locks
I know you're chasing wiring gremlins and maybe, just maybe some of it is caused by the Code Alarm system.

This is my Key Fob:


Lemme know if you wold like it and I can email it to you.

 

[jballard81]

Changed out my turn signal relay and serpentine belt today. While putting my air intake back into place I noticed something a little strange

Of course replacements for the 4.0 are unobtainium. Washed mine off with degreaser and it's drying in the sun now. Will hit it with the HVAC aluminum tape rebuild once it's dry.

Another item to add to the boneyard list!

 

[Bgunner]

Changed out my turn signal relay and serpentine belt today. While putting my air intake back into place I noticed something a little strange
View attachment 110668

Of course replacements for the 4.0 are unobtainium. Washed mine off with degreaser and it's drying in the sun now. Will hit it with the HVAC aluminum tape rebuild once it's dry.

Another item to add to the boneyard list!

This is a common issue on the 3.0l and the 4.0l engines that had this style intake tube. Yes the 4.0 version is unobtainium except for the junkyard part. 3.0 is obtainable but I think someone should make a batch of these for us that are keeping these older engines alive. The 4.0 is easier to build your own from a universal intake kit since the routing of them gives more room for the tube. This could be an option for you if you can't find a good one in the boneyard.

 

[jballard81]

I 'fixed' mine for now. Will need to check the yards and make a decision on Frankensteining a kit from after market parts.

Kind of looks bad there, but that's 3 layers of aluminum tape pushed down over each broken ridge and then smoothed out so that the tape has as good of a chance at adhesion as possible.

I pulled the negative off my battery to let it reset. I should probably pull a plug to see how bad it was. I've put less than 500 on it since I got it and it had new plugs then, so maybe they wouldn't tell me anything

 

[Bgunner]

It should run better with the tape on there as most of the air flow will now be metered unlike before.

 

[SenorNoob]

It's hard to tell from the pics, but; if that is the 3 piece intake tube. You can swap it out with the solid plastic one from a later model. It fits exactly the same.

I think mine came from a 96 Explorer.

 

[jballard81]

After reading about capacitor leaking on the ECU/PCM for these i thought i would change priorities and get the capacitors swapped out on mine. I was definitely VERY late to the party here. probably by 5-10 years...

Significant leakage. All three of the caps had rotted off the positive leg, or it disintegrated when i touched them..

Good news is, after i cleaned up the gore really well with some Isopropyl alcohol, i was able to get my multimeter in there and found that while it looks bad, I was able to trace continuity through all the traces that appeared damaged.

Installed new 105C+ quality Panasonic capacitors. I've been fighting a rough idle when in gear so maybe this will help? who knows... at least i've slowed down the rot. will probably keep an eye out for a replacement anyway.

Here's what it looked like with the new caps

 

[RobbieD]

Nice work.

I'd much rather repair the old through-hole circuit boards than deal the newer surface mount stuff.