My new steering

[Bent Bolt]

Hope to have it installed by the weekend.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Hmmm....go on.

Specs man, specs...

 

[CopyKat]

Hmmm....go on.

Specs man, specs...

X20

This one seems like a better alternative to the stone crusher stuff, that I would entertain purchasing.

 

[4x4junkie]

Very nice.

Although I'm a bit curious, why two adjusting sleeves on the one side?

 

[BlackBII]

 

[Bent Bolt]

I've labeled the parts I used

 

[Bent Bolt]

Very nice.

Although I'm a bit curious, why two adjusting sleeves on the one side?

Simply because I started with a EB left tie rod. I chose it due to the fact that it was straight so it fit in the lathe easily and it had the tapered hole that once modified , would be in the right location. It also is 1" in diameter, nice and strong. The F350 TRE and sleeve threaded on to the existing threads with no mod's ( right side knuckle ). Chucked it into the lathe, cut to length, machine left thread, used same F350 TRE and sleeve to connect to pitman arm.

DOM tube cut to length and thread to 7/8-18 to accept Chev drag link TRE's. I used them because they have a high misalginment angle to attach to the new drag link. It will see the highest angle/stress ( for lack of a better term) when the driver beam droops and when both beams droops. Still have to make sure it won't bind.

The Chev TRE's are a larger taper than the Ranger/EB steering so I had to retaper the modded EB drag link and will have to retaper the left knuckle on my Ranger. My ultimate plan was to find a TRE that fits a 7/8-18 thread and small taper so the whole thing would be 100% bolt in but this will prove the concept.

 

[Bent Bolt]

I'll post more pic's once it's in and working.

 

[CopyKat]

That's too bad it wasn't a bunch of off the shelf parts. All the custom work makes it out of reach for some.

 

[gwaii]

beautiful work....looks like it should help the short left arm issue on the ttb.

 

[Ranger Kip]

send me the old ones? mine bad.

 

[4x4junkie]

Simply because I started with a EB left tie rod. I chose it due to the fact that it was straight so it fit in the lathe easily and it had the tapered hole that once modified , would be in the right location. It also is 1" in diameter, nice and strong. The F350 TRE and sleeve threaded on to the existing threads with no mod's ( right side knuckle ). Chucked it into the lathe, cut to length, machine left thread, used same F350 TRE and sleeve to connect to pitman arm.

DOM tube cut to length and thread to 7/8-18 to accept Chev drag link TRE's. I used them because they have a high misalginment angle to attach to the new drag link. It will see the highest angle/stress ( for lack of a better term) when the driver beam droops and when both beams droops. Still have to make sure it won't bind.

The Chev TRE's are a larger taper than the Ranger/EB steering so I had to retaper the modded EB drag link and will have to retaper the left knuckle on my Ranger. My ultimate plan was to find a TRE that fits a 7/8-18 thread and small taper so the whole thing would be 100% bolt in but this will prove the concept.

Cool deal. Thanks for the explanation (and the parts breakdown)

Interesting to know F-350s used the same TRE taper as RBVs.

 

[Bent Bolt]

here it is. Still have to tweek and algin it.

Did take a quick drive and I have to say, the steering feels a lot better. Kinda hard to explain. I'll keep you posted.

 

[CopyKat]

How is it for articulation. Looks like it's going to hit itself if the drivers tire goes up and passenger side goes down.

 

[Mudhound]

Yeah, I noticed that too. Also, shouldn't the Pitarm to Pass. knuckle piece be rolled over about 90*, to allow for a more natural arc? It looks like it is going to be fighting itself at flex. Still, creative use of knowledge. Now I am thinking about working with some my old Cherokee steering and seeing what I can come up with...