It's finally time to change out the Oil Pressure Switch and Camshaft Synchronizer.
I took a pic of the Synchronizer without the electronics so I knew where to locate the tab. I also marked the tab location on the barrel with chalk. I put chalk marks on the block as well. The old tab moved when I pulled it out due to the way the gears mesh, so I twisted the new tab to match when I put the new Synchronizer in. Once the gears meshed and I pushed down, the tab moved back to the original position.
I noticed the the new Synchronizer tab didn't quite line up on the barrel like the old one did, so I had to twist the barrel a few degrees so tab was in the same spot with respect to the old barrel.
My Oil "Pressure Gauge" spazzed out when I drove the truck back from Stillwater. To eliminate a possible faulty sensor, I decided to change the Oil Pressure Switch too. (The "Pressure Gauge" doesn't report the actual pressure, but only registers when oil is above a set pressure.)
New and Old Oil Pressure Switches.
I pulled off the old head gasket and used a razor to clean off the residue. I wiped it down with acetone to clear the grease off.
Placed the new head gaskets down.
Installed the new heads. I used a clicking type torque wrench to install the head bolts. First time I got to use one.
I spent a half hour cleaning the lower intake. I don't have a parts washer, so I just focused on the mating surfaces. I used a razor, and plenty of paper towels to clean the grime off. Once that was done, I wiped it down with some acetone. I had trouble getting the bolts out earlier, so I chased the threads with a metric die.
I put small beads of RTV on the inside corners where the heads mated with the block, laid down the intake gaskets on the heads and then the end seals and applied another bead over where the end seals and gasket met.
I placed the lower intake down and started the bolts by hand. I torqued it in two steps: first at 132 in-lbs and then at 19 to 24 ft-lbs.
Here are all the Pushrods and Rocker Arms reinstalled.
I wanted to check to make sure I had all the pushrods connected properly, so I hooked up my remote starter switch and gave her a spin. Everything looked like they were connected right.
I figured I run a quick compression test while I had the remote hooked up. This is with a 40A charger hooked up, without the exhaust manifolds connected and only 5 pumps this time:
1) 167
2) 150
3) 146
4) 158
5) 145
6) 145
Better than before and much more consistent.
Finally got the Valve Covers back on. I couldn't figure out what the extra rubber washers were in the gasket kit. Turns out they seal the valve cover bolt holes. I put dabs of RTV on the intake to head joints. I also dabbed some on the steps the machine shop left on the valve cover mating surface just in case.
NOTE ON HAYNES TORQUE SPECS:
Torque values are in FT-lbs unless otherwise specified. When IN-lbs are specified, it usually means to use a wrench that is more sensitive (ex: Craftsman Microtork Wrenches)
It's all very confusing if you don't pay attention and read the instructions on top. Here's what went through my mind. I went to check Haynes for the torque specs on the lower intake. They specified two steps torque: 1) 132 in-lbs 2) 19 to 24. I went to check my small torque wrench and it only went to 75.
In a panic I went over to Sears and bought a Microtork wrench. I read the label and was confused because it said 25-250 FT-lbs, not the 25-250 IN-lbs on the ->
website<-. I decided not to use it and maybe I'll return it later. With all my confusion, I finally looked at my small torque wrench (bending ->
beam<- style) and saw that it was calibrated in FT-lbs and I need to divide all the in-lb values by 12 to get ft-lbs ... 132 in-lbs is 11 ft-lbs ... DUH!!!
Guess that explains why I busted that water pump bolt. Haynes specified 6mm bolts were 72 to 96 in-lbs and the 8mm were 15 to 22 ft-lbs. I was only supposed to torque the 6mm bolts 6 to 8 ft-lbs. I think I was up to 35 ft-lbs when the small bolt broke. Oooops!!!
As I was cleaning up, I decided to look at my new Microtork wrench and pushed the label up and saw that it was indeed calibrated in IN-lbs. The FT-lbs on the label is a typo! In that case, I think I'll keep it