Need help changed TFI,Coil,Plug Wires,Plugs, same results

[88 XLT Ranger]

"Guy's I did the fuel pump test"

Here is my results below I am using a VDO fuel pressure gauge oil filled. I am going to let it run more see if it starts popping

(Engine cold)

Key on 40psi
Engine at idle 32psi
Engine running at 2K 29psi


(Engine hot normal temp)

Key on 32psi
Engine idle 26psi
Engine at 2K 25psi

 

[Mark_88]

Looks like your High Pressure pump is having a bit of a time keeping the pressure up...at least it is easier to change than the one in the tank...

EDIT: good work with the testing...it really tests your patience and perseverence...and quite often your bank statement and earning power...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Looks like your High Pressure pump is having a bit of a time keeping the pressure up...at least it is easier to change than the one in the tank...

EDIT: good work with the testing...it really tests your patience and perseverence...and quite often your bank statement and earning power...

Thank you Mark

I appreciate all the help I did let it sit 15 min turn the key on 40psi started it up at idle it went to 30psi than it dropped to 27psi. The engine was still warm after the last test. What are the injectors on a 88 Ranger 35lb? I checked with Napa there two pumps "Out of stock" I checked OReilly Auto Parts they have Master Pro at $75.99 and Precision Fuel Pump Part # E16020 at $84.99 there OE fit looks better quality than Master Pro both are in stock


I better go with Precision Fuel Pump a bit more but hate to be changing the pump with the low brand unit as Master Pro

 

[Mark_88]

You're welcome...hopefully that is all that is needed for a long time...

Not sure what the injectors on the 2.9...

$$$$ Expensive $$$

I'm sure they are not the problem...your fuel pressure seems to drop after starting and leaky injectors would result in low pressure before starting because the fuel is leaking into the combustion chambers when not running...the pressure would bleed off if they were leaking and you might not hit 35 to 40 psi at any time...your pressure comes up when the engine is not running and that indicates a sealed system.

I could be wrong on that but before swapping anything else I would change the fuel pump...

Do you smell fuel leaking anywhere else or see drips of fuel under the truck? Placing fresh cardboard on the ground under the fuel lines and checking for bleed off would help detect and eliminate other sources of lost pressure.

Slight edit for clarity...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

You're welcome...hopefully that is all that is needed for a long time...

Not sure what the injectors on the 2.9...

$$$$ Expensive $$$

I'm sure they are not the problem...your fuel pressure seems to drop after starting and leaky injectors would result in low pressure before starting because the fuel is leaking into the combustion chambers when not running...the pressure would bleed off if they were leaking and you might not hit 35 to 40 psi at any time...your pressure comes up when the engine is not running and that indicates a sealed system.

I could be wrong on that but before swapping anything else I would change the fuel pump...

Do you smell fuel leaking anywhere else or see drips of fuel under the truck? Placing fresh cardboard on the ground under the fuel lines and checking for bleed off would help detect and eliminate other sources of lost pressure.

Slight edit for clarity...

Mark

Again thank you so much or helping, I worked hours tonight got the new fuel pump in. I have a 4x4 had to disconnect the drive line at the 3rd member to move the drive line over enough to get the fuel pump and mounting bracket out. I left my fuel pressure gauge on turned key on a few times to get fuel pressure up. The first try key on 40psi fired it up cold at idle 35psi. After 10min I put it at 1500rpm's let the temp go to normal. It dropped to 30psi I gave it a little throttle dropped to 29psi let off it jumped to 32psi than back to 30psi. I shut it off waited a few min key on 38psi started it at idle 30psi

I checked for leaks took my shop light down the fuel lines nothing dry. I didn't test drive it yet I got to wait until engine is cold to remove my fuel gauge setup. I will test drive in the evening tomorrow and cross my fingers

 

[Mark_88]

Doesn't seem to be much better than what you posted originally...but the warm engine is definitely improved...and that is where your problem was all along...originally...so here's hoping again...

*********************
(Engine hot normal temp)

Key on 32psi
Engine idle 26psi
Engine at 2K 25psi
*******************

From your recent numbers...

key on 38psi
idle 30psi

Although there is the quite a bit of a jump where needed...and although I've never tested these myself (and the difference between 4 cyl and 6 cyl under load) it looks like the road test will be the clincher...

I would be concerned also about the issue you ran into when moving the TFI harness...that may indicate an underlying complication.

I was just looking at an old harness that the PO left with me for the injectors on my truck...and found quite a few bare wires that I figured were causing the PO some real challenges...

Just a thought...and hopefully not something you need to pursue immediately...but always a potential for performance or operation issues...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Doesn't seem to be much better than what you posted originally...but the warm engine is definitely improved...and that is where your problem was all along...originally...so here's hoping again...

*********************
(Engine hot normal temp)

Key on 32psi
Engine idle 26psi
Engine at 2K 25psi
*******************

From your recent numbers...

key on 38psi
idle 30psi

Although there is the quite a bit of a jump where needed...and although I've never tested these myself (and the difference between 4 cyl and 6 cyl under load) it looks like the road test will be the clincher...

I would be concerned also about the issue you ran into when moving the TFI harness...that may indicate an underlying complication.

I was just looking at an old harness that the PO left with me for the injectors on my truck...and found quite a few bare wires that I figured were causing the PO some real challenges...

Just a thought...and hopefully not something you need to pursue immediately...but always a potential for performance or operation issues...

Mark

That didn't help same issue it ran fine up the steep highway grade 6 miles. I took the off ramp same ordeal popping as soon as I let off the gas it does it. I let it sit for bit back to normal. I do have lifter noise I talked with a guy at the auto store. Once the oil gets hot and I let off the gas the oil pressure goes down. He thinks its two worn lifters loosing pressure once the oil cools a bit its fine. They got Lucas oil stabilizer on sale I think I will leave the filter alone drain the oil and use pure Lucas. I did have one quart in it the last time I changed oil. I just need it to last through the winter its a real clean 4X4 its sad the issues these engines have with lifters. Lucas is my last effort hope it helps

 

[Mark_88]

Dang...

did you, by any chance, move the TFI off the distributor?

That was actually why I posted the first link to the Tech Article.

I guess it could be the lifters, and I had similar issues with my 2.3 but it was never that consistent. My lifters would rattle so bad and I'd loose all power...but the noise was more like a huge metalic zipper than popping...

If you already moved the TFI and followed the other troubleshooting steps then...I guess the six banger works a bit different than a 4 banger...mine would make noise...especially when oil was low...then it would die...and I would top it up (used the Lucas product) and it would quiet down...smooth out...run like nothing happened.

I was also battling several other issues all the time...until I swapped out the engine and changed a few other parts...

Anyway...how was the fuel pressure when the engine died...or did you have a tester hooked up?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Dang...

did you, by any chance, move the TFI off the distributor?

That was actually why I posted the first link to the Tech Article.

I guess it could be the lifters, and I had similar issues with my 2.3 but it was never that consistent. My lifters would rattle so bad and I'd loose all power...but the noise was more like a huge metalic zipper than popping...

If you already moved the TFI and followed the other troubleshooting steps then...I guess the six banger works a bit different than a 4 banger...mine would make noise...especially when oil was low...then it would die...and I would top it up (used the Lucas product) and it would quiet down...smooth out...run like nothing happened.

I was also battling several other issues all the time...until I swapped out the engine and changed a few other parts...

Anyway...how was the fuel pressure when the engine died...or did you have a tester hooked up?

Mark

I changed the Ignition Module and the wires all look good I moved them around as it was running nothing all good. I know this is why I am scratching my head. This never popped like this before I can hear it through the intake. Thing jumps around like a bad misfire. Once it cools a bit it good to go until it does it again. It took the fuel pressure gauge off I was worried of it coming off that would be not good. I use a hose clamp on the hose over the threaded part of the fuel rail vale stem test thing. Maybe I should do that once it starts popping pull over check it. To me its seams more of a fuel or ignition issue

I never had this issue until the rats made a nest just below the coil and ate through on vacuum line going to the round deal that has one cable going to the throttle body. I checked all wires and vacuum lines all good

 

[Mark_88]

OK...changing the ignition module and moving the TFI are two different animals and I thought you were relocating the TFI...it needs to be moved from the distributor...too much heat...when that gets hot it causes the symptoms you are having and needs to be relocated so it doesn't get too hot.

You've covered just about everything else that might cause this...and your fuel pressure was a bit low that can compound things...

But try reading through this and see what you can do to move the TFI...it is probably what has been happening all along...

The mouse chewing through the vac line certainly didn't help...and if there was wire damage you'd probably see the same thing at all temps...if it were the cause...

Try this...probably won't cost too much to move it...if you have some 14 or 16 gauge wire handy....might not even need that...I'm not familiar with the 2.9 wiring any more so I have no idea how far you can move things around before you need to splice in some wire extensions...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/remote_tfi.shtml


There may be something else at play here...but I'm kinda stuck on this reloaction issue...and not sure if you tried pulling the codes yet but that would also be helpful just in case...

I'm sure once you get this done it will last you all winter...maybe longer if needed...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

OK...changing the ignition module and moving the TFI are two different animals and I thought you were relocating the TFI...it needs to be moved from the distributor...too much heat...when that gets hot it causes the symptoms you are having and needs to be relocated so it doesn't get too hot.

You've covered just about everything else that might cause this...and your fuel pressure was a bit low that can compound things...

But try reading through this and see what you can do to move the TFI...it is probably what has been happening all along...

The mouse chewing through the vac line certainly didn't help...and if there was wire damage you'd probably see the same thing at all temps...if it were the cause...

Try this...probably won't cost too much to move it...if you have some 14 or 16 gauge wire handy....might not even need that...I'm not familiar with the 2.9 wiring any more so I have no idea how far you can move things around before you need to splice in some wire extensions...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/remote_tfi.shtml


There may be something else at play here...but I'm kinda stuck on this reloaction issue...and not sure if you tried pulling the codes yet but that would also be helpful just in case...

I'm sure once you get this done it will last you all winter...maybe longer if needed...

Mark

I always thought it was the TFI or ignition model I changed it to the Accel one. It started doing weird stuff off the start up nothing like before. It miss fired bad trying to shut the engine down. Also when cold only 5 mins before driving it popped to where I had to take it home. I felt it big time like a bad spark plug wire or worse. I changed the plug wires found two bad corroded ones white stuff in the wire end at the cap. The miss went way after plugs and wires but I changed the TFI/ignition Model to a new Motorcraft one at the same time and the coil. Still same results now fuel pump filter same results it did it cold its got to be something els

I do appreciate your time and help never forget that I am just tired money spent the work and time same results. Also when I changed the fuel pump running at 1500 rpm's I could heat a faint popping or the faint studder. I am going to do the fuel test with gauge once it starts popping missing pull over check it. When it starts to pop I smell fuel or like its to rich

 

[Mark_88]

Understood...and appreciated.

I have said I've been down the same or similar road a few times with similar results...and when the solution was found it was like "DOH"!

It's always nice to find that "DOH" moment before running out of dough...and I've done that more times than I'd care to remember.

I've still got parts sitting in bins that I've replaced not too long before my final melt down but hoping to be able to sell to recoup some of my losses...but after 14 years of driving a Ranger and going through what you're going through I must say...it doesn't actually owe me anything...

Keep posting as I'm pretty much tapped out myself on what this can be...and I was so certain the heat was causing the problem...I will wait for the solution...

EDIT: I just searched and found another guy with similar problem...the gas smell is new to me...but that could indicate something like a plugged catalytic converter...

Have you tried removing the cat or checking exhaust flow by any chance?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Understood...and appreciated.

I have said I've been down the same or similar road a few times with similar results...and when the solution was found it was like "DOH"!

It's always nice to find that "DOH" moment before running out of dough...and I've done that more times than I'd care to remember.

I've still got parts sitting in bins that I've replaced not too long before my final melt down but hoping to be able to sell to recoup some of my losses...but after 14 years of driving a Ranger and going through what you're going through I must say...it doesn't actually owe me anything...

Keep posting as I'm pretty much tapped out myself on what this can be...and I was so certain the heat was causing the problem...I will wait for the solution...

EDIT: I just searched and found another guy with similar problem...the gas smell is new to me...but that could indicate something like a plugged catalytic converter...

Have you tried removing the cat or checking exhaust flow by any chance?

Mark

The truck has good exhaust flow it puts a lot of pressure out the exhaust. It has a high flow muffler and two cats all welded together. I am going to put the fuel pressure gauge on drive it until it starts popping and missing jump out check it real quick. What does it do when a fuel pressure regulator goes bad? I see no gas in the vacuum tube

 

[Mark_88]

The FPR going bad can actually cause similar symptoms (briefly) but generally you will get a no start and flooding after it does.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/7-symptoms-of-a-bad-fuel-pressure-regulator

I'm still leaning towards moving the TFI off the distributor...

Does the dipstick smell like gas by any chance?

Again...I'm stumped as much as you are at this point...doesn't seem like an actual problem with anything until you hit highway speeds...or the engine is warmed up...

Can you try pulling the codes? That might give you some more insight...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

The above might take you some time to work through but might pay off big time...if you have a volt/ohm meter...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

The FPR going bad can actually cause similar symptoms (briefly) but generally you will get a no start and flooding after it does.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/7-symptoms-of-a-bad-fuel-pressure-regulator

I'm still leaning towards moving the TFI off the distributor...

Does the dipstick smell like gas by any chance?

Again...I'm stumped as much as you are at this point...doesn't seem like an actual problem with anything until you hit highway speeds...or the engine is warmed up...

Can you try pulling the codes? That might give you some more insight...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

The above might take you some time to work through but might pay off big time...if you have a volt/ohm meter...

Mark

Took a test drive with fuel pressure gauge on its hot today upper 80's it ran like a champ up the grade I let off the gas on the flat level part of the freeway no popping took the off ramp stopped it started popping pulled over quick popped the hood fuel pressure at 30psi I gave it some gas still 30psi. I got back in the darn thing runs fine again no popping. I drove down to the post office 4 miles than back up the road no popping I stopped at Cheveron got gas runs fine. I stopped at the store opened the hood the rubber fuel line on my gauge was spraying fuel out it split it open. I went to Napa thank god it was in the shopping center. I replaced the fuel line to get back home it ran fine all the way home


I wonder if the popping its the FPR to much fuel pressure? also the lifter ticking goes away once I get to town 6 miles up the freeway. The lifters seam to work better hot than cold strange thank the Lucas oil stabilizer god