No start, need help and some anxiety meds!

[pwbaker]

Have a low mileage 91 2.9L that I bought for a project. Truck was dropped off at my business which is about 4 miles from home. I had to spray a little starting fluid to get it to prime but was able to drive it home although it ran like hammered crap. parked truck and finally have gotten around to working on it. Truck will not start unless I shoot a little fluid in throttle body, runs for a second and quits. I have changed the in-tank fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap and pressure regulator. things I can tell you is the CEL stays on while cranking, fuel pump does not cut off while key is in the on position, old plugs looked terrible. I feel like it's a fuel or electrical problem. at my wits end. Any help appreciated.

 

[franklin2]

I would check fuel pressure. That truck has two fuel pumps, one in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame under the driver's door area. You should have a test port on the fuel rail on the engine to check fuel pressure.

 

[pwbaker]

Only thing I see under drivers door area is the fuel filter. I've crawled all over this thing painting and cleaning the last 2 months and haven't seen the 2nd fuel pump

 

[RonD]

Dual pumps were 1986 thru 1988, 1989-1992 2.9l just has the one in tank pump

It reads like Capacitor failure in the computer, my 1994 4.0l had exactly the same symptoms with CEL staying on while cranking and fuel pump running more than the 2 seconds, and ran like "crap"

Computer is behind the passenger side kick panel in 1991
Unplug it and pull it out
Remove the covers

There will be 2 or 3 barrel(radial) capacitors that can/will fail, bulge at top or leaks out the bottom, they can be blue or brown color
Easy to replace
If they leaked use isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips to clean circuit board, board has a sprayed on coating added after it was finished so most of the leaked stuff should come off
Seen here: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

The Blue ones in that picture
Need to solder of course to remove and replace
Take pictures so you know values, uF and Volts and which side is negative

Use Black ones to replace the blue/brown, they last longer
uF value must be exact, Volts can be higher but not lower
i.e. you can replace a 16uF 16v with a 16uF 50v but NOT a 16uF 10v

Google: electronic components store "YOUR town"

Replace all, 2 or 3
Should be under $5 even if you have to buy 4 or 5 of each

You can get "kits" online for this repair but $15-$20 and sometimes not correct values, so CHECK, if they don't list the uF and volts pass on that kit

 

[pwbaker]

Hey Mr. Ron! Thanks for the information, looks like you were correct. There are at least 2 of those little green capacitors in my ECM that have leaked. Couple of questions. 1. Where is the best place to purchase those? 2. Is it worth my time to solder those or should I just buy a ECM? Thanks buddy!

 

[RonD]

Google: electronic component store "YOUR town"

If you solder, or have a friend that does, its way way cheaper to replace the capacitors as that is all that is wrong unless you see other issues, i.e. burned spots on the circuit board

You can buy rebuilt ECMs, capacitor's already changed, need to match your Part number on the Label, it will start with F17F that's 1991 Ranger
Middle number is always 12A650 Ford part number for any engine computer(ECM), even in 2023
Last 2 or 3 digits is what you need to match along with first 3
Last digits ID the firmware for 2.9l engine, transmission type(manual/auto), emissions equipment(EGR or no EGR)
2WD or 4x4 doesn't matter to ECM

So you need F17F-12A650-xxx
Some places leave out the 12A650, so just list them as F17F-xxx

Avoid used as they will have the same capacitor issues now or within a few years if they haven't been changed
These capacitors last 20+ years, which is a long life, until the 20+ years comes around, lol

 

[pwbaker]

Ten four! Well it looks like the #60 pin also pulled out of the ECM so it would appear that I'm gonna be buying one! lol

 

[RonD]

Bummer
Remember to get that pin out of the connector

 

[pwbaker]

Here's the sticker. I don't see an F17F.

 

[RonD]

Its a 1989 ECM
So its been replaced before unless its actually a 1989 Ranger

Up to 1999 Ford used a Letter for decade and number for year in that decade
A = 1940s
B = 1950s
C = 1960s
D = 1970s
E = 1980s
F = 1990s

E8 = 1988
E9 = 1989
F0 = 1990
F1 = 1991

3rd digit 7 = Ranger
But Ford also used T for Rangers in the 1980's

If the engine was running fine before this you can use another rebuilt E9TF-GA
Or get an F17F-?? ECM, just tell the seller your engine size, transmission type and EGR or no EGR

The GA will not apply in any year except 1989, not how that works with Ford ECMs

 

[pwbaker]

My title is at the office, could have sworn it was an 91. I'll run and look at door sticker to check Manufacturing date. I appreciate all your help man, truly means alot.

 

[pwbaker]

Ron, here's the VIN. now you can tell me what i need so I can get it ordered! Thanks pal!

 

[RonD]

It was built in 09/90 so would be for 1991 Model year
And has Federal emissions not Calif

VIN also shows 1991, 10th digit "M"

Also "R15 — Ranger 4×4 (2-door SuperCab)"
Has a Limited Slip 7.5" rear axle 3.73 ratio "F6"

As far as which ECM to order, when I searched, pretty much the only thing that comes up is E9TF-GA for 1991 manual trans 2.9l so it must work
You can find the F17F but not sure on the post letters
So I would go with the rebuilt E9TF-GA