computersoc
Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2013
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- 119
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My 2001 Ford Ranger XLT has poor stopping distance if I have to make an emergency stop. Normally most people can time the stop to stop in time, but I seem to keep going. It's been like this for maybe two years. I usually drive 90% highway, so I don't often have to make emergency stops, but I'd like to get this fixed.
2.5L engine, RWD, manual transmission, ~208k miles, had new pads put on the old (turned) rotors last year which didn't make a difference. Rear drums and shoes are a couple years old (fairly new). Original calipers on the front.
Emergency brake cable is a couple years old. Sometimes in the winter, the ice would freeze it. The e-brake works fine though and holds the truck on a steep hill fine if I wanted it to.
The pedal travel is always fine, but sometimes the pedal just has an odd feeling to it, like it isn't smooth.
I went to PepBoys recently to have the brake fluid flushed, and they said I needed new wheel cylinders (rear) because the bleeder valve was broken off. They didn't do a flush. I looked under the vehicle and confirmed this. Not sure if this could be the cause, or if there's a combination of causes. They said the front bleeder valves were stuck, or maybe he just didn't want to bother.
Tires are at 5/32nds. It did this at 7/32nds too. From my research, in dry weather, 5/32 is more than enough. All of this happens in dry weather.
Brakes don't feel grabby/stuck or like they're getting caught on something, or anything like that.
Could new pads but bad rotors cause braking issues?
I don't want to throw money at it have it not work. Not sure how to figure out what the cause is.
I've driven other Ford Rangers that stop fine, so it can't just be blamed as being a "truck" and having slower stopping distances. While this is true, I feel the stopping distances are very poor. If a light turns yellow and I slam on my brakes, I'll end up in or past the intersection. The red light cameras around here almost got me because of this, but I gave it some gas when I realize this would happen and was fine.
Should I try pulling the fuse (which one is it) for the ABS to see if that helps? How will a car brake differently without ABS?
2.5L engine, RWD, manual transmission, ~208k miles, had new pads put on the old (turned) rotors last year which didn't make a difference. Rear drums and shoes are a couple years old (fairly new). Original calipers on the front.
Emergency brake cable is a couple years old. Sometimes in the winter, the ice would freeze it. The e-brake works fine though and holds the truck on a steep hill fine if I wanted it to.
The pedal travel is always fine, but sometimes the pedal just has an odd feeling to it, like it isn't smooth.
I went to PepBoys recently to have the brake fluid flushed, and they said I needed new wheel cylinders (rear) because the bleeder valve was broken off. They didn't do a flush. I looked under the vehicle and confirmed this. Not sure if this could be the cause, or if there's a combination of causes. They said the front bleeder valves were stuck, or maybe he just didn't want to bother.
Tires are at 5/32nds. It did this at 7/32nds too. From my research, in dry weather, 5/32 is more than enough. All of this happens in dry weather.
Brakes don't feel grabby/stuck or like they're getting caught on something, or anything like that.
Could new pads but bad rotors cause braking issues?
I don't want to throw money at it have it not work. Not sure how to figure out what the cause is.
I've driven other Ford Rangers that stop fine, so it can't just be blamed as being a "truck" and having slower stopping distances. While this is true, I feel the stopping distances are very poor. If a light turns yellow and I slam on my brakes, I'll end up in or past the intersection. The red light cameras around here almost got me because of this, but I gave it some gas when I realize this would happen and was fine.
Should I try pulling the fuse (which one is it) for the ABS to see if that helps? How will a car brake differently without ABS?
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