possible m5od issues?

[19bonestock88]

it's not too serious an issue right now, but i figured i'd ask anyway...

it has trouble shifting... not when you're moving, but when stopped... it is sometimes difficult to get back into gear after going to neutral(like moving in a parking lot or doing a 3 point turn) and you have to really shove the shifter to get it into gear(and it doesn't really like it)

when you're moving, it shifts like butter and has no problem at all

i have changed the transmission fluid about 3-5k miles ago and it has improved some, but the problem hasn't gone away...

 

[pwrranger88]

sounds like your slave cylinder is on it way out

 

[19bonestock88]

that sounds serious... and a PITA to fix... right?

 

[wizkid00104]

It took me 11 hours to get my Ranger tranny out. The problem is there is so little room wrench the bolts. And it was the first time I ever removed a transmission from a Ranger...

 

[19bonestock88]

how long do you think it will last like this?

 

[wizkid00104]

It depends on how bad the slave cylinder is leaking, if that is the problem. Mine was leaking for about 25,000 miles before I fixed it. Just keep checking the master cylinder level.

 

[CHKNFKR]

In my experience when it goes, it's gone. I'd replace it asap. If you just keep topping it off and force it into gear you are going to tear up your transmission.

There's no reason it should take 11 hours to change either. The first time i ever did this it took about 5 hours. I've done it enough i can do it in under 3 now.

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[19bonestock88]

the fluid level never goes down though... i check it every time i'm under the hood... was fine half an hour ago when i went out to buy some groceries...

 

[Kage]

the fluid level never goes down though... i check it every time i'm under the hood... was fine half an hour ago when i went out to buy some groceries...

Both the slave and the master have the ability to fail internally. You might go ahead and swap out the master (since you don't have to pull the transmission to do so) to see if that makes it happier. You will need to bench bleed the master to get all of the air out of it.

Pulling the tranny is a 45 minute job. Then again, i've got a bit of practice at it now

 

[19bonestock88]

do you have any tips for how to do that? it probably isn't happening yet, but i want to have info on it when i go to fix it... right now, i have engine issues and some body issues(dents and cancer) that need fixing before they become irreparable...

the trans makes a slight noise sounding like metal being turned on a lathe, with the bit only barely touching the metal when you have the clutch out in neutral... noise stops when you press the clutch and i notice it's easier to shift into gear if you hold the clutch in for a few seconds before trying to select a gear...

also sunday night while messing around in the parking lot, i got the trans to bind a little in 1st gear, holding the truck on a slight grade with the clutch disengaged... was slightly tough(not really hard, just some resistance) to pull out of 1st, and when i did, the truck coasted backward as it should have been doing all along...

 

[CHKNFKR]

i would bump the slave up on your list ahead of the body work. dropping the trans isn't that difficult. remove the shifter, disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave, unplug the reverse light switch, drop the drive shaft, remove the transmission mount bolts, unbolt it from the engine, slide it back and be prepared for about 100lbs to come down on your chest.

at this point you may as well replace the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing. I'd also thoroughly inspect the flywheel and have it machined or replaced if necessary. some will argue that there is no reason to replace the clutch components if they are still serving you well. I argue that i'd like not to drop the transmission next week/month/winter/when it fails 4 states from home and just do it now to save myself the trouble.

 

[19bonestock88]

that sounds like a lot of money... although i would like to do those at some point considering i'm thinking BOOST... but the reason i'm doing bodywork first is that i'm getting it done dirt cheap(still good quality) and the engine issue would come first anyway(probably get done at same time as body)

 

[CHKNFKR]

if you do it yourself you can do it for $154.98 plus tax

 

[wizkid00104]

at this point you may as well replace the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing. I'd also thoroughly inspect the flywheel and have it machined or replaced if necessary. some will argue that there is no reason to replace the clutch components if they are still serving you well. I argue that i'd like not to drop the transmission next week/month/winter/when it fails 4 states from home and just do it now to save myself the trouble.

He makes a very good point. I am in the process of this right now. I rebuilt the trans too (4 cylinder 4x4 M5ODs are a little harder to come by). The rebuild kit was $175 and we only needed a bearing press for one thing, used a cutoff wheel and a chisel to remove the old bearings. If you ever ask a shop about a rebuild, most of the money you'll spend is for removing and reinstalling. The rebuilds aren't that bad, just don't disassemble the shift rails and do your best to prevent the shifting collars from coming apart. Mine really only needed the shift rebuilt, the old shifter bushing pieces removed from the case, and 2nd gear synchro replaced. I hate having to repeatedly remove the same parts to replace little things when I can do them all at once.

 

[CHKNFKR]

And that $154.98 gets you the slave, pressure plate, clutch, pilot bearing, and the alignment tool to put the new clutch in. You can do the whole job in your driveway with basic hand tools.

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