question about overworking alternator and electrical components with a dead battery

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

I drained my battery pretty low a few times about a month ago and now it is no longer holding a charge. after an hour it fails to start the warm engine, after a few hours it is down to 11.9v

I was told this puts extra stress on the alternator as it has to put in extra work during voltage spikes.
but as I drive I see no fluctuations on my battery gauge.
where would these voltage spikes come from? it seems most my power steering and other mechanisms are mostly hydraulic or mechanical. I have no AC, no radio, no power windows, from what i figure, only brake lights would pull more draw. What could cause extra stress on the alternator? what role does voltage regulator play in this?

If i am getting extra voltage spikes, are these damaging my sensors and other electrical equipment?

venting:
i waited till monday to go to local independant battery shop down the road... out of buisness
look up battery prices at walmart: everlast plus $109 and everlast maxx $149 are batteries available in my size
i check pick n pull ($35) and they had about 4 total batteries on the shelf and have no idea when they will get more.
I called another pick n pull and they said theyll get a new shipment of batteries in two days. crossing my finger for 58, 59 and 34

 

[franklin2]

Take your measuring tape with you and draw a diagram on how the posts are oriented. Many times I have turned the battery around or put a little bit smaller battery in place with good results.

I get my batteries from the parts stores that sell "used" batteries. The battery stores like interstate also sell "used" batteries. These are brand new batteries that sit on the shelf too long and can't be sold as "new" anymore. Like your used sources, it's a crap shoot when you go looking, you do not know what they will have. But when I find one that I can make work, they seem to do fine for many years. I talked to a battery delivery guy, he said that is all he runs in his vehicles.

I haven't bought any in the past year, but before then I could buy them for $50.

 

[2011Supercab]

It's not so much the voltage spikes.

It's that the alternator is just working harder trying to charge an un-chargeable battery, it will overheat and burn itself out.

So instead of buying that $109 battery while your alternator was working, there is a very good chance you will also be buying another alternator if you wait along with a battery

 

[Lefty]

Yes, to all of the above. And maybe more. You might also want to get the battery tested. As long as you are under the hood, you might wish to put in a new uprated voltage regulator. Ford makes them. It's not a bad idea anyway. i had a similar problem.I blamed the battery only to discover that there was a parasitic draw coming from connections on the cruise control.

 

[Josh B]

I bought a 12 month battery for the Ranger near 4 years ago, and one for the Explorer, both from Walmart @ 50 bux a pop. I keep one in the Explorer even tho it blew the transmission seal several years ago, just to power the locks and then unplug it. Then I swap them out a couple times a year.

I have seen no reason to believe either one is on the way out, but if it did tomorrow, I would still have to say that's been a darn good deal

 

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

So instead of buying that $109 battery while your alternator was working, there is a very good chance you will also be buying another alternator if you wait along with a battery

alternator is $35 and would be replacing a 4year old $35 alternator

 

[Shran]

There is no reason that an alternator in good condition will get burned up charging a dead battery a few times... or even a bunch of times... if it does, it was either grossly undersized to begin with/defective/poor quality.

My guess is that your battery is either drained to the point where it needs an extended deep charge - I usually do this on a trickle charger and let it sit for many hours. A few days to a week will bring them back... depends how long it was allowed to sit discharged, the longer it sits the less likely this method will work. Simply jumping the truck and driving it around is not enough. Often you will see batteries that appear to be "charged" and will show good voltage but that voltage will drop substantially when you put a load on the battery.

 

[gaz]

@youngbuckwithapickuptruck ,

Hi, I'm an oldudewithapuckuptruck.
I have learned to by the most reliable battery available. I will concede that there are several good choices but I stick with the brand that has done the most for me.

There was a day when the Sears Diehard was the ticket, today I do not even question it, I only buy Interstate Greentop or the new heavy duty Greentop that is gold??? By having a known good battery, I experience less difficulty troubleshooting my autos.

Batteries do not last forever but until their dead, they are not the issue. Once they are dead, replace them. I have gone the wrecking yard battery route when $$$ was tight and it did carry me, just not as long and not trouble free. For awhile I putore time and effort into reguvinating yard batteries, it does work to a point, more people should consider reguvinating their batteries, it would save them money but it does cost the time to learn how, the materials to perform the act and then I must own a special charger with a computer to make it all come together.

Either route will result in a reliable power source but only fir a finite amount of time. I have more faith in a new battery but only if I can afford it.

If I'm not mistaken, the go-to alternator check is to remove the negative battery cable while the engine is idling, if the engine stalls the alternator has issues.

 

[Shran]

If I'm not mistaken, the go-to alternator check is to remove the negative battery cable while the engine is idling, if the engine stalls the alternator has issues.

Do not do this on a modern vehicle. May have been okay with a carburetor and very few electronics but it is almost guaranteed to burn something up on a new vehicle.

 

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

$35 for random battery
$30+$40 for walmart battery + 1year warranty
$30+$80 for walmart battery +2year warranty
$30+$120 for walmart battery + 3year warranty.

considering it usually takes me *at least* a year to blow out a used battery, the $35 battery seems to be my best option

but all the pick n pulls are out of batteries and walmart only has the everstart plus batterys at $110. oh dange

 

[RonD]

Yes, battery is bad
Yes, get a new battery
No, you will not see voltage spikes, but you are for sure shortening the life of the alternator, as said "by using it to try and charge an unchargeable battery"

Think of towing a large heavy trailer around town with your Ranger, for no good reason, will that increase the wear and tear on your truck..............................
Its a rhetorical question, of course it will
Get a new battery

 

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

wearing out a simple-to-replace $35 used alternator does not seem like a big deal to me.

wearing out difficult-to-replace electrical components and sensors seems like a huge deal to me.

looks like my next driving trip will be straight to walmart for a battery + unnecssry warranty :|