removing '99 rust belt torsion bars

[pjtoledo]

truck scrapped a couple years ago, have the lower arms with torsion bars still attached.
going to separate the parts, adjusters came off without too much blood.

getting the bars out of the lower arms is not going too well.
perhaps I should consult the manual??



perhaps not, can't seem to get a picture of the page to paste here.
anyway, it just says to grasp the bar and remove it from the lower control arm

I'll get right on that sir.

no fire wrench available, guess I'll just have to keep beating on it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've seen people cut the eyelet of the arm to get them out before.

Without heat... good penetrating oil... and I would try a blunt bit on my air hammer.

Maybe a puller of some sort rigged to push.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Pretty sure I just soaked mine down really good for a few days, then I went after it with a big hammer. Probably a sledgehammer, if I remember right. I have my 4 lb dead blow, my short handled 4 lb sledge, plus a nice selection of 8#, 10#, 12# and 16# long handled sledgehammers. I have used all of them with mechanic work. Really, anything over a 12# is a little excessive, but the price was right on the 16#. I usually go through a rapid escalation of force and when it gets to the long handled variety, it’s usually whichever is closer to where I’m working. Very few things won’t move with the vigorous application of a 12# sledge.

 

[Josh B]

I kept a 20# when I worked derrick offshore. It's the only one that didn't walk off every time a roustabout got sent looking for a hammer. They left the 20# alone because they knew if they took it back they would have to use it

 

[Uncle Gump]

How are you holding the control arm while beating it? You better have a good vise if you're smacking it with a 10 lb (or bigger) sledge hammer.

More then once the vibration of a good air hammer has got it done over brute force and a bigger hammer.

 

[pjtoledo]

these are loose parts, and clamping them down is challenging.
my first attempts I was just standing on the arm swinging a 3# short hammer.
I have some 1-1/2 hex nuts that fit in the pocket & against the bars.
one of them now looks like a mushroom.

currently formulating a new idea for holding them, if it works I'll post some pics.
the bars are for a long term project, I have plenty of time to scheme up new ways to break something.

hopefully not my fingers

 

[pjtoledo]

the bars are marked for the direction of twist and the corresponding L or R

 

[pjtoledo]

found a way to hold them.
even with the truck on them they moved enough after 30 whacks that I needed to reposition them.

one decided it would come out easier the wrong way. no biggie, that allowed me to clean the hole then it went thru fairly easily.
still working on the right one, currently soaking in PB Blaster, again.


ah crap, when I try to insert I get the http box again. no pics yet.

 

[pjtoledo]

got the last one out, had to resort to heat. 5 minutes of propane on the hex tube the bar goes thru.
due to corrosion and crud I found it much easier to push the bar out the front of the control arm. it does not come all the way out, the rear is too big to fit thru the hex.
then clean the crud, grease it, push it back thru for a rear exit.