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Rookie questions?


plainolebill

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Does the 2011 RWD Ranger use standard shocks with the torsion bar suspension and what are the other wear items? My town is built on about 15 feet of clay that expands in the rainy season and contracts in the summer so the roads are pretty rough (chip seal) in most areas other than highways. The ride on my new Ranger is pretty rugged. Even my old 79 scout smoothed it out better than the Ranger, any suggestions?
 


Vindictus

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I have the same ride as you do. Stock shocks suck. I changed mine for rancho RS5000, for simple reason rockauto had them on sale. They made a world of difference
 

plainolebill

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Thanks, I'll need to figure out which ones I need. They list several part numbers for the truck. What is the difference between the RS5000 series and the RS5000X?
 
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Vindictus

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The RS5000x is just the upgraded RS5000. New and improved
 

plainolebill

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Amazon has a complete set for $251. Are these the right ones?Amazon
 

Vindictus

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Uncle Gump

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I have no experience with the 2wd torsion bar trucks. But... there is only so much travel between hard stops on the front suspension. A factory length shock is designed to operate in that distance. Not sure why one would need an extended travel shock. Same with the rear honestly... if you're leaving the truck at factory ride height.

I'd be concerned you may not get full compression... might be worth looking at some specs. for full extend and compression to compare.
 

scotts90ranger

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Are you sure it's torsion bars? Pretty much only Edge models were 4x2 and torsion bars, the rest of the 4x2's had coil springs and all the 4x4's had torsion bars (in the '98 and up variety anyway). With the torsion bar suspension you have to deal with what previous owners have done (lifted or lowered with the torsion adjustment) and that apparently in the last two years('10 and '11) they used softer torsion bars to lower the ride some. Look at the bump stops and where they hit on the lower A arms, if they're close and the contact area is shiny you are hitting the bump stops a lot which will make for a rough ride... but with torsion bars you can simply jack it up and crank the stop bolts in some to raise it up some... Don't know where in Oregon you are but if you're close I'd be willing to look it over with ya and if you ended up with new shocks could help... it's been raining for MONTHS here but I have a shop bay that's mostly empty...
 

plainolebill

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Thanks, I'm in Corvallis. I'm nearly 80 so crawling under a car can be painful but I should be able to see torsion bars, correct? Maybe I should go to Harbor Freight and get a creeper.

Did you mention rain?
 

superj

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You can stand across the parking lot and see the torsion bars. If you have them.
 

superj

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See what I circled? That won't be ina coil spring truck
 

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Uncle Gump

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You can just turn the steering full stop and just look in the wheel well. If you don't see coil spring... it has torsion bars.
 

Uncle Gump

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So... don't order those shocks. You just want a factory length replacement.

Shocks are like tires or engine oil... everyone has a preference.

I don't think you can go wrong with a set of KYB Gas-A-Just.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lead follow or get out of my way
As for wear items... there are several. The beautiful thing with these trucks are they're pretty robust. If they've been maintained and not driven like they were stolen... they go north of 100k easily. Even further. I would suggest looking at tire wear to get a clue on how things are. If it's not pulling clanking shaking and such... you're probably good. But if you're up for it or know someone... give it a shake down and see how things look.
 

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