- Joined
- Apr 7, 2008
- Messages
- 2,629
- Reaction score
- 26
- Points
- 0
- Location
- CA
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Size
- 4.0L V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
So a while back I made a new idler arm to replace the Superlift one. The goal was to make something stronger and that could accept the LARGER and more COMMON Chevy leaf spring bushings (Like RuffStuff sells). Well I accomplished that just fine.
Now the dilemma is that the bushing wear out pretty quick due to all the forces involved with my setup AND that the idler arm rocks back and forth as I steer from left to right or right to left. It is noticeable in that it feels like there is something loose in the steering (and effectively there is).
If you need a way to visulaize this I will post a link to a youtube video showing what is going on here.
The wobble I describe is partly due to the larger torque arm now induced since modify my SuperRunner kit (dropped it down 2.5"). It mainly exists because of the loose tolerances between: the inner bushing steel sleeve, the 9/16" bolt inside the bushing sleeve, and the flex of the bushing itself.
Long story short, point to be taken away from this is: How do I eliminate the wobble of the idler arm?
My first two ideas were:
1) Make the upper bushing like 3" wide (as opposed to the 1.5" that it is now), which would spread the bushing halves way apart, and distribute the load better. This I view as the cheaper route, and more "ghetto-fab" and may not completely fix my problem.
2) Cut off the bushing all together, and run some kind of needle bearing or tapered roller bearing setups on tight tolerance shaft (much like a spindle and wheel bearing setup). This I see as being the more expensive route, but would work the best. Also, not sure where to get said parts?
What are some other ideas/methods that anyone else has? Keep in mind it is ONLY the upper bushing on the idler arm where it attaches to the crossmember that needs beefing not the one on the centerlink.
Here are some pics:
Now the dilemma is that the bushing wear out pretty quick due to all the forces involved with my setup AND that the idler arm rocks back and forth as I steer from left to right or right to left. It is noticeable in that it feels like there is something loose in the steering (and effectively there is).
If you need a way to visulaize this I will post a link to a youtube video showing what is going on here.
The wobble I describe is partly due to the larger torque arm now induced since modify my SuperRunner kit (dropped it down 2.5"). It mainly exists because of the loose tolerances between: the inner bushing steel sleeve, the 9/16" bolt inside the bushing sleeve, and the flex of the bushing itself.
Long story short, point to be taken away from this is: How do I eliminate the wobble of the idler arm?
My first two ideas were:
1) Make the upper bushing like 3" wide (as opposed to the 1.5" that it is now), which would spread the bushing halves way apart, and distribute the load better. This I view as the cheaper route, and more "ghetto-fab" and may not completely fix my problem.
2) Cut off the bushing all together, and run some kind of needle bearing or tapered roller bearing setups on tight tolerance shaft (much like a spindle and wheel bearing setup). This I see as being the more expensive route, but would work the best. Also, not sure where to get said parts?
What are some other ideas/methods that anyone else has? Keep in mind it is ONLY the upper bushing on the idler arm where it attaches to the crossmember that needs beefing not the one on the centerlink.
Here are some pics:
Last edited: