Vacuum Hoses

[GKM007]

Working my way through a Duraspark Conversion and as long as my wire are correct just have my vacuum lines to connect. In my haste of pulling things out I did not mark them and I am wondering where my hoses go

There is a few outlets on the carb, one on the manifold and the tree in the back. Ones I know of are the one from the transmission, pcv, brake booster. I believe all those go to the tree?

Where do the ones on the carb go? Do I need to connect them somewhere or plug them off? Also the dizzy needs a hookup, unsure where.

Also where can I connect the drivers side valve cover breather? I am going to run a aftermarket air cleaner.

One more newb question, but I need to disconnect the vac on the dizzy when timing correct?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you change out the carb? The PCV should come off the back bottom of the carb if there is a large nipple there. If it is a non feedback carb use the nipple next to the drivers side idle air needle for vacuum advance. Connect the tranny and brake booster to the tree and just plug the rest of the nipples. If you still have the two solenoids going to the vapor cannister it gets connected to the back of the egr spacer under the carb pointing at the firewall or just plug that nipple also.

 

[GKM007]

I deleted the all EGR stuff, canister, air pump, and the thing on the passenger side that connects to the manifolds.

Yes carb is a rebuilt unit from summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/urm-7-7553/applications

Okay sounds good thanks for the guidance! Just felt like I was plugging a lot of vacuums off.

Also which way should the dizzy vac nipple point? Drivers or Pass? I popped it back down in the same position the old one came out rotor wise.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Passenger side I believe gives you the most adjustment plus it puts #1 plug wire tower at 11 O Clock makes it easier to set the firing order by the book. You did plug the vacuum port under the brake booster hose under the carb on the egr spacer?

 

[GKM007]

Nothing is plugged ATM all vacuums were taken off the rig, minus the brake booster.
Headed out side to start plugging them off. Lets see if I can get it to start.

 

[GKM007]

Okay so plugged in all vacs and plugged the rest.

No start / acts like it wants to but does not fire. Feels like a timing thing to me. I can rotate the dizzy to get it to respond more to cranking but cannot rotate enough to get it in time. Need to pull the number 1 and get the dizzy out and back in 11 oclock.

Checked for spark and I have it nice and strong. Damn wire broke when I pulled off the boot too, so off to the store to get a new set. Needed them anyways but would have rather bought later

Also the electric choke does not seems to be opening on its own, unless it does that once it has started. Butterflies are closed all the way during cranking.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Pull the #1 spark plug and stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank clockwise until you feel compression then line the timing mark at TDC on the damper. Look at the position of the rotor it needs to be at 11 oclock. Once you have it at 11 then put the cap on and set the firing order from there. It is easier to mark the damper pully from underneath put a light mark one line back from the 12 on the pully you want it exactly 10 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Let the engine fully warm up and check it again after the distributor is locked down.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It may take a few times to get it right as the oil pump may not let you push the distributor all the way down just turn the crank two full turns as you press lightly on the distributor to line up the pump shaft then go back to TDC on the compression stroke and look at the rotor. Make sure the vacuum advance is pointing toward the passenger side.
1-4-2-5-3-6 clockwise from 11 oclock

 

[GKM007]

So pretty sure she is in time. Got #1 TDC far as I can tell and rotor is point at 11.

I wasnt going to touch the carb until I checked everything else, but I may have found my issue. The needles seemed way off. Passenger was 5.5 turns out and the Drivers was around 6.5 From what I have read here 2.5-3.5 is a good starting place (set it to 3.5). Just got the plug wires from the store (had to be ordered). Going to plug them in and start cranking, hopefully she will be running soon.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The best way to adjust the air needles is with a vacuum guage or tach. Once you get the timing at exactly 10 degrees and the engine up to temp slowly turn the needles out for the highest vacuum pressure or rpm. Set the idle speed around 700rpm and do it again you will find the point where the vacuum or rpm only drops when you turn them in. For some reason these engins work best with a rich idle air mix and a smaller high speed jet. If the carb has #50s in it get some #42s and fine tune it again. That should improve top end performance immensely.

 

[GKM007]

Could not tell you what the jets are in this. What ever was stock for a 78 Mustang II is what this is built after.

Vac gauges are above my knowledge base to be honest. I am in unfamiliar territory with carb stuff. But I do have a tach, just need to install it.

 

[GKM007]

Everything plugged in, and it will run like its on a couple cylinders. Really smooth and quiet, its odd.

I am a little lost on what to do, I feel like its something easy.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Are you sure the firing order is correct?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.shtml

 

[GKM007]

Yea I just hooked up brand new wires and wrote the fire order on the cap.

Just went outside and double checked too. They are on correct. Damn rain started again too!