What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[JoshT]

eww... No thanks! I've seen too much driveshaft carnage recently, though it was a toasted CV joint due to installer (me) error.

Good luck on your racing endeavors though. I want a quick truck, but drag racing isn't my thing. I'm going to be AWD on the '99 and, while I'd like to make some power, hopefully it won't be to the point of destroying stock shafts.

 

[ITSA 7]

What I am building is a race truck that I will drive on the street. Promised my wife that I would not build something that would run faster than 10.0 in the quarter. She thinks I am too old ( 86) to drive even that fast. Probably shouldn't tell her about the nitrous.

 

[SenorNoob]

Picked up a replacement engine. Coming from a 94 Aerostar, so far I've noticed that the engine mount plates, passenger side exhaust manifold and valve cover, oil filter adapter, and wiring harness look different.

Oh, and the dipstick is destroyed. Anybody know any other differences?

 

[sgtsandman]

I finally got around to removing the near useless jump seats and seat belts associated with them.

That will give more room for storage and provide places to anchor the to be eventually built storage box/drawer thing.

 

[4.0blue98]

Installed new water pump. Old one was weeping and a bit gritty when you spin it. Hopefully the new one won't leak...

 

[MSGia]

It has been almost a year since I last tried to set a personal gas mileage record, but now that I am almost always on the highway I tried again, this is the absolute most I could get out of my little old ranger . 272 miles @ 16.6 MPG.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Reinstalled new front rotors and bearings today after another front rotor warped, causing a pulsing brake pedal. This is twice that's happened.

I had been using a NAPA front hub/rotor with new bearings the first two times. This time I went to the dealer, who had the VIN, hoping to get OE hubs/rotors to avoid the problem. The parts guy gave me the part number correct for the VIN, which was different from all those for the truck online and from RockAuto, and said Ford had obsoleted it. He did find two in the system, one each from different sources, but the price was nearly $200 each. I passed.

The Motorcraft part number is BRRF62; Ford is AL5Z1102A. That was the first time I had seen either part number. I got an aftermarket equivalent referencing BRRF62 and BRRF64 on eBay for about $70 each. Everyone who had the actual Motorcraft part wanted a lot for it too. Evidently the particular combination my truck is—SuperCab with jump seats, 4.0 V-6, auto, tow package—requires this particular hub/rotor, which is allegedly heavier duty than the standard assembly. The ones I had been getting evidently weren't quite up to snuff.

Understand that I don't ride the brakes, do not normally stop hard, and have pulled a light trailer with the truck only once, but the rotor warped anyway. The driver's side bearings showed signs of overheating, but the passenger's side looked all right. I use one of the best synthetic high-temp moly greases available, Red Line, and bearings had been installed to torque specs. The wheels rotate freely with no play.

We'll see how it works this time. Getting tired of messing with these.

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

Well, today was busy! I finally swapped in the "new" front differential. By "new" I mean a pull-a-part core with the right gear ratio, completely torn down, cleaned, inspected, and resealed. Bearings looked good, so I didn't change them... I don't want to deal with shims if I don't have to.

So I swapped that in, didn't take too long, the hardest part was snaking the CV axles out. I am genuinely impressed with them- 250,000 miles, original parts, and they are still as smooth as butter with no play or damage.

Also put the front driveshaft back in, with new CV and U-joints on their respective ends.

Don't tell anyone... But I reused the axle nuts that ford says to replace. I forgot to order them, so for now they have been cleaned, had loctite put on the threads, and torqued down.

 

[Bill]

I blew a 20 amp fuse.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

Switched out the spark plug wires and replaced the fuel filter, getting 14 year old fuel all over the garage floor and myself in the process

 

[sgtsandman]

Switched out the spark plug wires and replaced the fuel filter, getting 14 year old fuel all over the garage floor and myself in the process

Yeah, I've yet to figure out a convenient way to change the fuel filter without wearing some of it.

 

[snoranger]

Yeah, I've yet to figure out a convenient way to change the fuel filter without wearing some of it.

Yes you did… you bought a 2019+ with a filterless system.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yes you did… you bought a 2019+ with a filterless system.

Good point there.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Switched out the spark plug wires and replaced the fuel filter, getting 14 year old fuel all over the garage floor and myself in the process

Welcome to the club. Wait till you have the joy of it deciding to syphon on you from the tank.

Yeah, I've yet to figure out a convenient way to change the fuel filter without wearing some of it.

I had a line on a potential solution with going to a screw on canister style but I didn’t get one and then after CoVid the only ones I’ve found aren’t rated high enough for the “returnless” system my 2000 has. Apparently another product line that went up in smoke.

 

[Rick W]

Welcome to the club. Wait till you have the joy of it deciding to syphon on you from the tank.


I had a line on a potential solution with going to a screw on canister style but I didn’t get one and then after CoVid the only ones I’ve found aren’t rated high enough for the “returnless” system my 2000 has. Apparently another product line that went up in smoke.

If you bathe your self in gasoline, it kills the Covid virus. I’m not sure if there’s other bad affects though.