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#1 |
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New Member
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Forgive me for not searching more but i'm really in a bind for time.
I installed a junkyard tranny into this truck I just bought (94 supercab 3.0 5 speed) and once I got it in the clutch was working fine. I had been trying to fix the exhaust as the people I bought it from cut it off in the most f'ed up places. As I was trying to cut the exhuast pipe I zip tied the hydralic line to the exhaust above it keep me from hitting it with my cutoff tool. Like a dumb ass I forgot and cranked the damn truck. Well you know what happened, it burned the line into two pieces. I got a new line and have ran 2 cans of fluild throught this thing trying to bleed it. It flows a steady stream at the bleeder valve. It also shoots a steady stream when you release the bleeder vavle with the pedal pushed in (i.e. when bleeding). It has absolutely no resistance at the pedal when pushed in. Any ideas what is wrong? Thanks, Gerald |
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#2 | ||
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Tracked and Locked
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northumberland, PA
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 2.9 High Performance
Class: 4x4
Used For: Elevenses
Posts: 18,605
Rep Power: 93 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (13)
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I know air can get trapped at the bottom of the master cylinder. Usually taking it out and turning it upside down works, but I'm trying to figure out a pressure bleeder for the clutch system.
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Project: Hillbilly Deluxe Project: Amazing Grace Project: 12-Volt Sandwich Quote:
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HELP REPEAL OBAMACARE Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind. |
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#3 |
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New Member
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Nope that wasn't it. Okay Most of my experience with clutches is with cable operated (5.0 owner for years). It mentions in the manual that no air enters the system with the quick disconnect fittings but with my burning into like that the quick disconnects fitting was still in and thus leaving that line open allowing air to enter.
Okay so that i understand this thing, when you install tranny onto the engine the slave cylinder would be under pressure big spring collapsed thus when you push the pedal the slave cylinder pushes against the pressure plate fingers to release clutch correct? When the line burned into and the slave cylinder emptied of all fluid (cause it was under pressure from being against the pressure plate shouldn't the slave cylinder just pump back up tight as I bleed the system? It seems as when you pump the pedal it should push fluid in and refill the slave cylind or it's lost fluid til it's back up to full capacity at which point it should then push the pressure plate to release the clutch? It seems that as I pump it in it just pushes right back out upon release of pedal kinda like a bad one-way check valve? Do I need to pull the tranny back a few inches to let the slave cylinder "refill with fluid as I pump it up with the pedal? I have an extra slave cylnder that I hooked up just to watch how the fluid works. I disconnected from the one in the tranny and hooked it to my extra one while having someone pump the pedal. It just pumped the slave cylinder up tight and seemed to do what i thought it should do. Alsothe quick disconnect got extremely tight (like I think it should). When I hook it up to the one that's in the tranny the quick disconnect never really get tight? I can push the disconnect in and out about 1/4" while it should be tight. Am I looking at this the wrong way? I realize no one is probably going to read this as it's so long but hoping for some help. Thanks, Gerald |
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#4 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: South cenral PA
Year: 1992
Make: Ford
Model: ranger xlt
Engine: 2.9
Class: 4x4
Used For: wheeling and DD
Posts: 28
Rep Power: 3 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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close off the vavle and just sit and pump the pedal mine when i did my tranny swap literally took 10 in of pumping eventually it builds pressure then open the valve close it then pump it again till it builds pressure and your good
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: missouri
Year: 1991
Make: ford
Model: ranger 2wd
Engine: 2.3
Class: 2wd
Used For: responding to call's
Posts: 79
Rep Power: 4 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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thats how i did mine...
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91 ranger 2.3 2wd 5speed is now a running pos And 5hp briggs gokart lp gas,basic,structural firefighting,cpr,auto extrication,first responder
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#6 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central Texas
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II
Engine: 2.9 now 5.0 later
Class: 4X4
Used For: DD/Hunting
Posts: 69
Rep Power: 4 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Could be an air bubble in the new line. Watch the video at this link and it may help you figure out where the problem is and how to fix it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc |
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#8 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: daily driver, trail ready
Posts: 990
Rep Power: 8 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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I used a clear line(go to a pet store and get clear air hose used for fish tanks) hook that up to the nipple on the slave cylinder. Have someone help you pump the clutch and bleed the same way you would your brakes. The hose allows you to see the bubbles in the fluid and know when to keep going or stop. Once no more bubbles come out of the slave you're done. I also use this on brakes cause its the same principle. My buddies give me shit but I was able to bleed the clutch in 20 min doing this, took my friend who made fun of me 3 hours to do his a few years back.
Sent from the road while ignoring traffic |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Salem Oregon
Year: 1990
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3 Turbo
Class: 4x4
Used For: holding down the driveway
Posts: 2,645
Rep Power: 32 ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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if you follow the youtube thing and still have a little bit of a squishy pedal, push the pedal all the way to the floor then slip your foot off, do that a few times and it will work the last of the bubbles out of the master cylinder, if the air is in the slave cylinder gravity bleed it a bit. A cheaper source for the clear hose is the hardware store
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converted to 4x4, turbo'd the 2.3, 6" lift with 35's and 5.13 gears! Send e-mail instead of PM, box full... |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Alberta
Year: 1994
Make: Ranger
Model: XLT extended cab
Engine: 4.0
Class: 2wd
Used For: everything
Posts: 198
Rep Power: 13 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I got mine done by bleeding the conventional way, then removing the piston from the master cylinder inside the truck ever so slightly to allow fluid out the end.
Take the rod off the pedal, remove the circlip that holds the piston in the bore, then carefully slide the piston out of the bore just a smidgen until fluid exits the bore, then quickly stuff it back in, replace the circlip and reconnect the rod to the pedal. Because the master cylinder is sloped upwards inside the cab, air hides at the top side and it's almost impossible to get out. |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Marshfield MA
Year: 94
Make: Ranger
Model: 4x4
Engine: 4.0 OHV
Used For: mini pick up stuff
Posts: 656
Rep Power: 6 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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The new clutch master and slave came with bleeding instructions similar to ADSM08's advice. It was easy and took only a 1/2 hour or so. Tip the MC and gravity bleed the line by holding in the check valve at the connector. Plug it into the slave, put a clear tube on the bleeder . Rig an air lock just like for brakes. Pump the pedal a few times. Any air left in the system will burp into the reservoir eventually. When I replaced the worn out disc, I bowed to popular opinion, and replaced everything from the rear main seal to the swing arm. The truck shifts like a dream. OTOH, before the R+R, it shifted fine too, just wouldnt go anywhere when I pushed the skinny pedal.
Last edited by Andy D; 05-13-2012 at 09:06 AM. |
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