1995 Explorer-got taken to the cleaners

Long and short of it:

Bronco II sold due to severe engine issues finally came full circle. (oil pressure tanked big time)

We picked up a used 1995 Explorer Sport with 4wd and 5 speed stick.

This has a slew of problems the last owner never mentioned. Basic maintenance done (all fluid changes, tune up full, etc..)

1st issue: Speedometer is electronic. Sender tests good, as well the gear looks great from a physical stand point. The speedometer will not respond or even twitch until the engine is over 2,300 RPM or in that range. Even then it's bouncy. I suspect a wiring issue (engine 'tilts' at higher RPM and completes the circuit) However I used a circuit tracer and it passed. Anyone ever see this before? This nonsense I expect from a cable driven speedometer, not a full electronic needle one.

Would anyone have a schematic or wiring diag. for this circuit? The cruse control also works just as bouncy as the speedometer-when it wants to even try to engage. (It needs a solid signal for the speed) I need to know the 'route' that signal takes.

That's the first major headache..... I'm not sure if the cluster sends the signal to the cruse. Or if the signal goes to the cruse first, and then the cluster.... The manuals really are pos in that respect..

I'll post the other issues as things progress. The last owner lied his tail off about this Explorer, and I'm stuck with trying to make the lemon aid now....

Thanks in advance!!

S-

There should be one in the on-line manual. I just looked up stuff for the 96 Ranger and it had quite a few electrical diagrams...I can have a look to see if it lists the VSS or whatever it's called in 95...unless you put the engine into a different vehicle with different wiring...

I will look under 95 Explorer Sport Track...4wd...

EDIT:

Yes, there is a diagram of the speedo...not sure if it is what you will want...one is under the gauges section and there is one on the transmission 4x4 section (options to select).

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319

User ID and pswd are tech...prefilled if you go with this link anyways...

Now that should do the trick!!

This issue is blowing me away currently. Speedo is totally 'dead'. Go fast enough and it starts to respond. Sense the inputs at the VSS start with the ground at G104, and the output is shared/spliced in with the PCM (likely for the TCC lockup), Cruse module, and the cluster. There is no "path" listed. Just all routed off that wire, and no "module" is seeing the signal first.

At least this makes more sense to see the schematic in front of me. The VSS tested fine. (220 ohms, gear is good) An issue with the cruse module isn't likely, as I already unplugged it and "test drove" it on a set of stands with the same results.


As Holmes would say "The game is afoot". Thanks for that link!! That will make figuring this out a lot easier.

The next issue I'll post in the 4wd section (front axle related)

S-

OK, great...thanks for the rep!

I will keep an eye for the the post..hope it helps...the on-line manual can either be sketchy or have exactly what is needed...and I'm finding it has much more on later models than on my old 1988 2.0.

Mark_88 said:

OK, great...thanks for the rep!

I will keep an eye for the the post..hope it helps...the on-line manual can either be sketchy or have exactly what is needed...and I'm finding it has much more on later models than on my old 1988 2.0.

Click to expand...

I'm looking forward to working that issue out. Still have a nasty manual transmission issue as well. New bushings in the shifter--and it still works like crap.

Well, Wednesday is my next day off. So that should be an interesting day to figure out the speedo issue. I hope....

Thanks again!

S-

Okay.

This just entered the realm of the ODD.

Spent all afternoon chasing down the speedo issue:

Wiring verified at the Speedometer cluster. Removed the GEM connector and the PCU connector. Found while doing a resistance check we had a lot of resistance in the speedo cluster. (removed the plug at the VSS to do this and jumper wired at the Cruse Module. Unplugged the cluster and the multimeter went full 'open')

So what the heck, Pulled the cluster (we had a few blown bulbs to replace anyway) I found the PO did the unthinkable! Picture the brass Ba&&s it takes to remove the cluster and SLICE the trace that goes to the Air Bag light
Yes the clock spring was ripped apart when he did the steering rack and it was sounding an alarm for 'air bag fail' (which HE stated was the trucks security alarm doing a self test when it starts)

So I carefully soldered a jumper wire and corrected it. Now we have a working Air Bag Light!! It even turns OFF!! after a few seconds! (Yes I did replace the clock spring.....so it has no reason to be 'on')

Okay Okay...

So wiring to the VSS is verified good. Still dead speedo, just jumps when the engine RPM is over 2200..it almost wants to work....

So I go to the VSS itself. Now I remember it was mentioned that this VSS "Creates it's own signal/voltage". So I attached a dummy plug to it and had my multimeter set for A/C low scale. I then lift the rear end of the truck up and run 'er in 1st gear at different RPM's. The meter did show some odd readings on the A/C scale (nothing to report on the DC scale) It was extremely jumpy. Even when held at 2k, the VSS should have sent a "constant" signal.

Okay, Cheap enough part. So I installed a new one from the auto parts store. Gear still looks serviceable, so I reused it (Pink gear....mild wear pattern) Installed. Used what looked like a "spacer" that came off the old one.

Same result. A bit jumpy here and there, no solid readings at the speedo. I then removed it again, and left the spacer off this time. Test drive was interesting that time. It seemed to 'hold' speeds over 20mph slightly better, but as soon as I let off the gas pedal? Nose dived to zero.

Results on the multimeter where close to the one I removed. Nothing stable when held at the same RPM. (I'm glad I saved that dummy lead)....

Ideas are welcome! The rest of the cluster appears to be working normally, connections are good.

Much as I hate to think it.....Drive Gear in the transfer case? Give it enough "English" and it rocks things around enough internally for the gear to mate to the VSS gear? I'm outta ideas.....

S-

Dang, eh!

I found this...not sure if it is pertinent...but it looked interesting.

Also checked the on-line manual for diagnostic information and saw that there is also a shaft rpm sensor tied in with the speed sensor...OSS...

Well, I just read your thread again as I thought there was mention of the ABS light...but...not the same issue...this guy had the ABS light on and the speedometer doesn't work...so...not exactly...



I will keep looking...this sounds so familiar like I just read something on this same issue...

Thought I found a good thread but it was for 1998 - 2000 Ranger...
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18170

Yeah, most of the other speed sensors seem to have to do with drive shaft speeds and wheel speeds. (transfer case and ABS)

I'll likely wind up putting the back of the SUV back onto the stands and removing the VSS (again) If I can get a mirror up there or even my pinky to see if I can see or feel the gear inside the transfer case. Might say the heck with it and have the stealership order in a replacement speedo gear and replace the driven gear. It did have some minor wear. Might be just enough to create issues.

S-

Have you checked the harness and plug contacts? Also look for fraying wire ends. Lube the cables too. I admire your courage to rely on a 21 yr old car for a daily driver.

Andy D said:

Have you checked the harness and plug contacts? Also look for fraying wire ends. Lube the cables too. I admire your courage to rely on a 21 yr old car for a daily driver.

Click to expand...

If I run the numbers on how much this project has already cost us, I could probably have gone about 10 years newer and had less headache LOL. I won't do that, it's depressing.


I yanked the harness end and a few feet of wires off a low mileage 'donation' truck at the local pick'n pull. Same result. The test I did with the multi meter (220ohms on the sensor) did show the VSS was "Good", but I've had issues where part test great, until things get in motion. So it was replaced with a new one.

The data I found on the VSS shows it makes it's own voltage/signal when it's spinning. So if tested with a connector on it, and spinning at a set RPM The voltage should be fairly constant. With both sending units it's all over the map for voltage. Crude test, but effective. Left it installed in the transfer case. 1st gear @ 2000 RPM. Spinning the wheels/driveshaft at a constant rate. And the signal is all over the place.

I have a replacement gear "Ford OEM, NOS" coming up from a parts supply house in FL. Our local dealership blew me off when they found I was working on a 1995.

It should be here in a few days. Failing that? I'll have to get an inspection mirror and check the gear in the transfer case...

(On the lighter side, with that thin 'Shim' removed from the VSS-the sensor now resides a bit deeper in the transfer case. I think it's riding on a slightly better part of the gear. The speedometer is working about 70% now at higher speeds/rpms....)

S-

95 use the rear diff sensor?


this sounds like a bad set of diff bearings if it does...gets shit all over the sensor and the ring gear walks around altering the signal.


but i dont think it does...pretty sure the big trucks are all that did that then.


so if the speedo head gear in the panel is good then i suspect bad t case output bearing based on the intermittent issues....

if it was an auto trans and it was still shifting then it would for sure point to the cluster as the isssue.

but it is not...

Speedo issue was traced back to the output shaft of the transfer case. I did a thread about the shaft being extra wobble.

The transfer case that replaced the old one. Same series and ID numbers. Still has output shaft up/down play. Not quite as bad as the one removed. I examined the speedometer gears on both cases. The replacement one with 135k on the clock- Has nice somewhat sharp edges on the gear on the output shaft. The one that came out of the explorer: All the gear teeth in the center part looked to be slightly rounded off.

The test drive afterwards showed the speedo is now working normally. It doesn't respond for s&it until you hit 10mph. Once there? It works fine.

S-

Good to hear...just think of it as needing that first ten kph to warm things up and acknowledge...

well, clean up and put some bearings in your old case...these are real simple critters to work on..

do you have a link to the other thread you refer to? just curious to your path.