Clutch job - driveshaft issues

Hey guys I'm installing a new clutch in my 96 b2300 standard cab short bed. I have put very few miles on it since buying it back in march since there have been issues I knew I would need to address before I felt comfortable it would be reliable. I could not have been more correct! I already overhauled the engine externally - timing belt - all seals - pcv - ignition wires - you name it. the clutch was always very soft and beginning to slip and there has been a leak from the output shaft seal.

Started my clutch job on Saturday (in my mother-in-laws garage!). Told her "oh I'll be outta here by Monday no problem! Thanks ma!"

20 year old rust laughed at me. It took me nearly all weekend before the driveshaft bolts would budge. soaking them in penetrating fluid - going about other tasks while waiting yadda yadda - I finally had to hit the flange with a torch to loosen them which I had been hesitant to do in fear of burning up bearings or oil seals. I seem to have been successful so far in that regard.

Finally - the problem. I got the drive shaft out and the slip-yoke has gnarly scoring in it. Deep enough you can hear it loudly as you scrape a finger nail over it. I'm out of time as it is - and it snowed last night for the first time this year (Minnesota). the ol battle axe is anal about her car being in the garage in pristine weather. In the snow? yeah she's blowing a gasket.

My question - can I wrap up the clutch job and slap it back together to get it out in the driveway and tackle the extension housing seals later without dropping the transmission? I know that yoke will destroy a new seal inside 24 hours so it will remain parked and i'll grab a driveshaft to rebuild at Upull. Is there any "Be sure you do/don't do this or you're screwed" advice about u-joints/yokes/driveshafts I need going forward? (I have never changed a U-joint before) Thanks in advance!

Is this the rear driveshaft in a 2wd truck? If so I think you can replace that seal with the trans in the truck. You would just need a good slip yoke and the seal. I don't know if you can get a speedi sleeve for your current slip yoke or not but that might be an option too

yes 2wd short bed - single piece drive shaft with a single u-joint at each end and a damper attached to the yoke. I'll look into the speedi sleeve you mentioned. I read somewhere that if the rear output seal is bad you should also do the one inside the extension housing...... any wisdom in that?

Okay there is indeed a speedi sleeve available at napa for 41 bucks. You just made my day big time. Thank you very VERY much!

My problem has been solved at the advice of Shran above. Thank you very much for your reply and moderators you can close this thread thanks

txarmysgt said:

Okay there is indeed a speedi sleeve available at napa for 41 bucks. You just made my day big time. Thank you very VERY much!

Click to expand...

No prob!

Shran always was wicked bright...contrary to popular opinion....lol