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New clutch slave cylinder...hard pedal and won't engage


hboutlaw77

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Installed a new CTEK clutch slave cylinder, bench bled the entire clutch assembly per instructions and then followed the instructions on this forum for bleeding after connected to the slave cylinder. The clutch pedal will only go down about 1/4 of the way and then is like the brake pedal. I've read that some of these slave cylinders have a locking sleeve or clip but have a notice in the box to remove. This new one did not have a notice and trying to find instructions online have not been successful...to tell me if there is a locking sleeve or clip.
Two questions: does anyone know if this brand uses a locking sleeve or clip?
If not a locking sleeve or clip preventing clutch operation what else could it be? I don't think there is any air in the system at this time.
Thanks for any advice.
 


RonD

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When you open the Bleeder on the slave will clutch pedal go to the floor?

If not the Quick Connect on Master's hose at the slave is not in far enough so not opening.
That is why you have a hard, not moving pedal, because slave is not getting any fluid from Master, quick connect valve is closed

If pedal does go to the floor with bleeder open then yes there could be a clip on the slave that needed to be removed
 
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hboutlaw77

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yes, when the bleeder is opened the pedal drops. what a pain if I have to pull the transmission again.
 

hboutlaw77

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I was able to crawl under the truck and though the inspection hole could actually move the slave cylinder and it would appear that it does fully extend when compressed. That means I can take a screwdriver and pull the slave away from the clutch probably an inch or more. It's almost like this slave cylinder is the wrong part and does not have enough throw to engage the clutch...it bottoms out. I looked up the part number and it is the correct part for this application.
Weary!
Anyone have ideas?
 

RonD

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If it fully extends using a screwdriver then why was pedal stopping after 1/4 travel?
Are hoses on Master correct?


1995 to 2012 rangers with 2.3l(both), 2.5l and 3.0l used the same clutch parts

Earlier 2.3l was probably just flywheel bolt pattern for pressure plate not depth of pressure plate, 1989 and up used same M5OD transmission
 
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hboutlaw77

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The master cylinder was not replaced and the slave can only be connected one way. I probably didn't describe it very well if there is confusion. I was trying to explain that the slave cylinder can be moved back (away from the clutch) using a screwdriver...further than I would expect. Then when up against the clutch it just stopped hard and didn't seem to be able to move further.
 

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So slave is not compressed fully after transmission is bolted to engine

Yes that would be a problem, usually you have to open bleeder when tightening bell housing bolts so slave will compress.

This was an engine swap, did you use the 1999 Flywheel and 1999 clutch parts?
 

hboutlaw77

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Really? You have to open the bleeder valve when installing? Didn't know that.
This was a full replacement from a 1995 ford ranger including the engine and 5 speed transmission. The engine and transmission were operational when removed from the 1995. The only change made was installing the new slave master cylinder. So, is it really true that during the install the bleeder needs to be open? Any other tidbits of info I could have overlooked? I've installed several transmissions and never had to do that...but then again I've never had to deal with a hydraulic clutch:(
 

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You don't HAVE TO open the bleeder, it just makes pushing the trans onto the dowels and then tightening the bolts easier if slave has expanded.

Did you compare old and new slave?
The throw out bearing is attached to the new slave "usually", but slave can be sold with or without throw out bearing attached.
If throw out bearing is missing then yes there would be a gap and a problem
 

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