Replacing all three parking brake cables

Wondering how much trouble it is to replace all three parking brake cables in my 95 ford ranger, it's an extended cab so 125" wheelbase.
Only have a basic socket set along with pliers screwdrivers etc.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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Brake cables are annoying to replace, but not overly difficult. You do have to tear the drum brakes apart in the back, so you'll need a jack, jack stand, lug nut wrench and brake spring tools. In theory you could use the stock jack and lug wrench if they're still in the truck, but I highly recommend a jack stand for safety, I had a truck come off a jack before. Got lucky and didn't hurt anything but my pride. Worst part was that I had a jack stand and was being lazy.


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The brake spring tool is a great help and doesn't cost much.

Always chock your wheels when jacking the vehicle so it won't roll of the jack. Don't assume it won't go just because the ground looks level. Jacking the vehicle changes the center of gravity and it can (and will) roll. Jack stands should be used whenever possible. It's a safety thing. What costs more? $20 or $30 for a pair of jack stands? Or an ambulance ride to the emergency room, lost time from work, etc.

I would recommend taking picture of how everything is connected and mounted, especially where the 3 cables join together. It makes it a lot easier to re-assemble.

Not to sound cocky but rather my lack of better words, but I think you guys are underestimating my mechanic ability, I work at a shop and I'm a trained mechanic.
Was just wondering if this was especially a pain in the ass to do specifically on the ranger or just a regular pain in the ass like on other cars. So far working on it has proved easy enough, as this is my first vehicle that I own that's American.
And one of the first American cars im working on.
I live in Iceland so there's very little American vehicles here


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Johann2326 said:

Not to sound cocky but rather my lack of better words, but I think you guys are underestimating my mechanic ability, I work at a shop and I'm a trained mechanic.
Was just wondering if this was especially a pain in the ass to do specifically on the ranger or just a regular pain in the ass like on other cars. So far working on it has proved easy enough, as this is my first vehicle that I own that's American.
And one of the first American cars im working on.
I live in Iceland so there's very little American vehicles here


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Click to expand...

From the OP, you're asking a question that's fairly simple, and you stating that you only had a limited amount of tools makes it seem like you are new to wrenching. If you're a trained mechanic, you should know that you pretty much need to tear down the drums to the backing plate to remove the cable. In short, it's no more difficult than any other drum brake work.

Alright thank you for the answers, I apologize for the misunderstanding, I sometimes have trouble putting my thoughts into words especially in English.


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I didn't mean to put you down. As stated above, your original post didn't give us that information. For an experienced mechanic It's an irritating but simple job.

Eric B

unworldlyalex said:

From the OP, you're asking a question that's fairly simple, and you stating that you only had a limited amount of tools makes it seem like you are new to wrenching. If you're a trained mechanic, you should know that you pretty much need to tear down the drums to the backing plate to remove the cable. In short, it's no more difficult than any other drum brake work.

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You don't need to tear the brake shoes down. You do need to remove the drums.
(Edit: there are 3 cables for 97 and under and 4 cable on 1998 and up.)

There are 4 cables in total for 1998 and up.

1) release the tension on the ebrake (there is a trick to this, figure this out before you start)

2) cut the cables off. Cut right where they come out of the backing plate.

3) remove the drums. Then remove the remaining cable. You can fish the new cable in easily. Reinstall drums.

4) connect everything all back. It's a little tough connecting the final cables together.

5) release the tension at the ebrake mechanism.

I've done this to 4 or 5 Rangers. Sometimes I replace all 4 cables and sometimes I replace the 2 rears and intermediate. The 2 rears are usually the issue in states with salt and snow.

If your Brakes are locking up when it's raining out it's usually the rear ebrake cables.
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Thanks for the technique. I'll try that next time if I'm not trying to save the old cables.

Eric B

Old thread but right now i'm changing the 2 main rear cables of my parking break and is a pain . I buy the cables at "A1 parts.com" they warrantee exact fitment.Before install the cables i measure the old with the new ones and appear the same size ., i installed both cables in the drums ,easy to me but when i try to attach the cable barrel is falling short of meeting the front cable barrel there are about 3 inches of distance between cables.
...So this is the next thing to do.A friend in other forums do this.

Norbert said:

Old thread but right now i'm changing the 2 main rear cables of my parking break and is a pain . I buy the cables at "A1 parts.com" they warrantee exact fitment.Before install the cables i measure the old with the new ones and appear the same size ., i installed both cables in the drums ,easy to me but when i try to attach the cable barrel is falling short of meeting the front cable barrel there are about 3 inches of distance between cables.
...So this is the next thing to do.A friend in other forums do this.

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Did you run your parking brake adjusters all the way in before trying to connect the cables? Also, it's going to sound like I'm calling you dumb but that is not my intention, did you make sure the parking brake pedal was released and not depressed at all?

Parking brake cables are indeed a huge pain. Even just routing through and around everything just a little bit wrong makes a huge difference.

Ok, "Parking Brake adjuster", the dent wheel in the drums? yes is adjusted as the lowest possible. ..the picture i posted was by another member in other forum that use this method i'm thinking using this tool i found (Look at the picture)i think that i will use it is there's no another way.

Norbert said:

Ok, "Parking Brake adjuster", the dent wheel in the drums? yes is adjusted as the lowest possible. ..the picture i posted was by another member in other forum that use this method i'm thinking using this tool i found (Look at the picture)i think that i will use it is there's no another way.

Click to expand...

I'm a bit torn between that and one with a closed center. I'm not sure which would be better. The open one is less likely to trap moisture and freeze (and possibly split) but the threads are exposed to the elements and splash from the tire in front of it. Given that it really shouldn't need to be messed with once it's adjusted, it's probably six of one, half dozen of the other. All the adjustment, once it is set, should be with the automatic adjusters in the parking brake mechanism.

Both techniques are inexpensive you can use the one that best suits you.
This is my final work but still needs more adjustment.