What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[CamTheHedgehog]

Afterthought. Did you ever do something without thinking about it, and you go on about your business, and then you think about it when you’re falling asleep and you get really scared?

I don’t know what I was thinking when I drove the Missing Linc into the scrapyard. What if they didn’t let me leave with it?!?!?

All the time. I feel you.

 

[ericbphoto]

Good for you. Question, how hard do you have to hold it in your hand to stop the leak?

Seriously, I just bought the multi function switch for my 87. While I was looking, I ran across a couple of those tables that show every vehicle it fits. I was astounded at how many different models over I think more than 20 years use the same switch, Ford Lincoln and Mercury. Sometimes I wonder if they design anything new except the sheet metal (er, I mean plastic).

Hey! Don’t complain. They already DO design too many new parts when they already have something that works perfectly fine. For those of us who shop at junk yards more than Advance or O-Reilly, interchangeability is important. And I would much rather get a 15 year old part to put on my 30 year old truck than to buy a 30 year old part that will crumble immediately like the original part.

 

[JoshT]

I don’t know what I was thinking when I drove the Missing Linc into the scrapyard. What if they didn’t let me leave with it?!?!?

I don't know what you would have done. If I were placed in that position, the scrapyard would be having a very, very bad day.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yes. Cut connectors with about a 10" pigtail from two harnesses. Used solder sleeves to join the three needed wires together with a wire length of about 8" between them. That's still too long, but works fine. Wrapped that with split loom and tape. Then I extended the two wires for the AC high pressure switch up to the radiator support where it is located on the explorer, about 3' of extension. That too was wrapped withsplit loom and tape. Though about taking before I started making it, but didn't remember until it was finished and installed in the truck. I guess I'll have to make it to the 25th so everyone can ooh and aah (or point and laugh).

I can't take all of the credit. I think we both developed the idea independently, but @lil_Blue_Ford beat me to it on the execution. He had the idea and made it first, but I didn't know about it until a later discussion when I was gathering parts to do my swap. Actually that seems to be a common thread for our builds, similar build direction, but the ideas developed independently with him beating me on the execution.

So actually I should probably give some credit to @holyford86 for making up adapters using salvaged connectors with a pigtail of wire, he suggested it to me back when I was putting a 4.0 in my Choptop and the harnesses didn’t plug completely together (he was also the one to get me the harness I needed out of a 2nd Gen Ranger because I found out the Explorer 4.0 harness was waaayyy different). So now I have a collection of factory Ford pigtails to use when I have to make adapters, lol.

As for my 5.0 AWD Ranger project, well, to be honest, it’s something I wanted to do for many years and really started collecting parts for and kinda planning the build since I bought my green Ranger after my hip surgery back like 9-ish years ago (at the time I was specifically looking for a 98-00 extended cab with third doors 4.0 automatic 4x4 with every intention of doing the swap). So there’s been a lot of “behind the scenes” that has gone into my build. I’ve also spent a ton of time on forums and stuff to plan things out as much as possible. I ended up really going into largely uncharted territory with my build, but that doesn’t bother me. Dad’s 5.0 Ranger was a much more straightforward swap because we didn’t get into the crazy build that I went for. Dad wanted a stock height to 2” lifted truck and nothing crazy. I wanted a lowered sleeper mini truck monster because I wanted one of those for the last like 25 years. I still have a bunch of issues to work out on my build yet, but as it sits… man… I absolutely love it. I had originally hoped to build a 331 stroker out of the 5.0 before dropping it in, but things happened and it wasn’t possible to make happen yet, but it’s still on the future list. As it sits, it’s downright mean and will shove you into your seat plus rail around bends, but it looks like a rough, worn old Ranger with a cap and not a wicked toy.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Whole thing is way cool. Closest I’ve ever come to seeing how one was converted.

I really need to do a build thread for most of my stuff. Way back when I had some threads going but they’re long gone now. I have tried getting some of my stuff up on my YouTube channel though. Have a lot of stuff to edit and get up but there’s still a bit on there about my green Ranger build. I have a bunch of other stuff that I’m gonna try getting to and getting up on there too. Just hasn’t been enough time and energy to get all the videos up though. Really could use a garage and someone to help with filming and editing and stuff. It’s a lot for one person to do

 

[Rick W]

I got a new battery for the Missing Linc today, and I put it in.

After all these guys lowering their trucks and raising their trucks and putting v-8s in them, I feel like a girly man just swapping a battery…

But I did get a big bad ass group 65 battery from Walmart, and I had to make a little spacer for the battery tray because it was too wide, and I painted the battery tray with Rustoleum after wire brushing it. Grunt!

OK, even after that last paragraph, I still feel like a girly man just doing the battery…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I got a new battery for the Missing Linc today, and I put it in.

After all these guys lowering their trucks and raising their trucks and putting v-8s in them, I feel like a girly man just swapping a battery…

But I did get a big bad ass group 65 battery from Walmart, and I had to make a little spacer for the battery tray because it was too wide, and I painted the battery tray with Rustoleum after wire brushing it. Grunt!

OK, even after that last paragraph, I still feel like a girly man just doing the battery…

Lol, I like the 65 series batteries, most of my trucks use them now. I even made the Explorer battery tray work in my green Ranger so I could shoehorn a 65 series in.

My parents think I’m crazy with all the work I do to vehicles. Maybe I am, but I have a problem with leaving things alone when I can modify to suit my wants/needs. Everything I build and modify, I have a plan in mind before I even begin. It doesn’t have to be super specific, just a particular end goal and a plan to get there. My F-150 was built to be a heavy hauler/work truck because that’s what I needed. My Choptop was built to be a big playtoy because that’s what I wanted.

Your builds are pretty cool. Just because you haven’t gone absolutely crazy with some doesn’t mean much, the Road Ranger is an impressive thing and the Missing Linc is definitely cool.

 

[Rick W]

Thank you.

Ok. What do you want from me?

Sweet Pea feels the same about the important work I do….

 

[JoshT]

After all these guys lowering their trucks and raising their trucks and putting v-8s in them, I feel like a girly man just swapping a battery…

We've all got our things. The Road Ranger never woul dhave been on my radar as something to build and if it did pop up there I wouldn't have known where to start. Missing Linc isn;t something thyat I would have had the idea to do. If I did get the idea for any of your projects, I certainly wouldn't have pulled the off the way you did, I'd be looking for off the shelf parts and materials to buy, not scrounging my "shed of miracles" and hunting the classifieds.

Depending on the year and vehicles involved the V8 swap is almost a bolt-in affair. Unbolt from one and bolt into the other. With the 2000 Explorer AWD and 1999 Ranger 4x4 basically everything except for exhaust, the mentioned connector, and PATS is a simple bolt-in task. Similar year 2wd Donor and recepient takes some extra work for engine mounts and maybe driveshaft, but otherwise is the same IIRC.

Doing the swap in earlier TTB Rangers is a bit more of a challenge and I'll admit that I abandoned that project once. Engine mounts were an issue, but a few people sell adapter plates for 4.0L mounts now. Exhaust might be easier on a 2wd TTB. Heater box clearance is an issue on earlier trucks (up to 92 or 94). EFI vs Carb can be a huge game changer on the earlier ones. Carb definitely easier. Butchered chassis electrical and making Explorer EFI work standalone was a large part of abandoning my earlier attempt. With simple wiring and carb I could have had one done a decade ago, but I was stubborn and wanted the Explorer EFI and 4R70W.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Looked at the '90, put a flag in the bed for this weekend... I went to check on the battery status on the '00 Explorer as we were thinking of dragging it to the beach this weekend but the battery is flat (dumb thing has been getting worse at that, hard on batteries, gotta see if this one is under warranty) so it's Ranger instead... was curious how the sploder does in the sand with two engine mounts too... and headers, cam and a healthy engine...

Also started up my generator for the first time since like April, took a shot of carb cleaner (don't keep starting fluid around anymore, both are too spendy) for some flamables but ran like a top even on the old gas .

Tomorrow I'll get the Ranger on the trailer behind the camper and F350...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Just renewed the registration on the '90 and got an OHV permit so there's $136ish done... OHV permit would have been fine for this weekend but would have been expired for next months trip...

On the generator the only dumb thing I had to do was rewind the pull start like I've done a handful of times, last two times I used some rotten or completely wrong rope, this time I found some nice nylon stuff in my stash, it pulls nice and smooth...

 

[sgtsandman]

Went through the new parts that came in for the Spring maintenance on both trucks. Everything has come in that I ordered, but I have a doubt on the parking brake cables being the right ones for the 2011. I guess I'll find out when I get to it...

Now, all I need is some oil, oil filters, and check the shop supplies for anything I'm out of or in short supply.

 

[Rick W]

Looked at the '90, put a flag in the bed for this weekend... I went to check on the battery status on the '00 Explorer as we were thinking of dragging it to the beach this weekend but the battery is flat (dumb thing has been getting worse at that, hard on batteries, gotta see if this one is under warranty) so it's Ranger instead... was curious how the sploder does in the sand with two engine mounts too... and headers, cam and a healthy engine...

Also started up my generator for the first time since like April, took a shot of carb cleaner (don't keep starting fluid around anymore, both are too spendy) for some flamables but ran like a top even on the old gas .

Tomorrow I'll get the Ranger on the trailer behind the camper and F350...

I’m sure all you regulars know all of this, but I’ll throw it out there for those coming up, or in case there’s one or two items someone’s not familiar with

For a simple device, batteries can be a real buzz kill. Not too long ago I had 17 vehicles, and I spent at least two or three hours every weekend farting around with one of the batteries. A couple things I discovered. This is all regarding trickle chargers and maintaining the battery, not charging them once they die. More on that later.

The little red and green felt washers under the terminals, worth their weight in Gold, and, of course, keep all the connections clean. Total common sense.

I tried a bunch of cheap trickle chargers, and I found three that work great, but….

Battery tender Junior is probably the best, but they’re about $50 walking out of the store.

Online (EBay), I found this 2A charger from China. Let me say there are a bunch of Chinese trickle chargers, I’ve probably tried half of them, and I am recommending this specific one. There are a few that look similar, but this has a voltage read out on it, and also tells you the amp hours. And then it has five lights underneath that tells you if the battery is 20%, 40%, 50%, etc.. These are about $10, and if you buy two or three or four at a time you could get 10 or 15 or 20% off that.

Like the battery tender Junior, if your battery is around 90%, it will charge it all the way up and then maintain it without overcharging. I think you can get an identical looking charger that does something like 6 A or 10 A. Don’t do it! I’m specifically recommending the 2A. Theoretically they can charge a battery that is dead, but after a few tries, this little yellow charger dies. I only use them for maintenance or when the battery is pretty much close to fully charged.

Even cheaper, is this one

And you can buy these in a four pack or a 10 pack and get them for under seven dollars. I only clip them on when the battery is fully charged from a charger, but it will keep it 100% charged indefinitely without overcharging it. It has a little red/green indicator light.

The other thing I’ve done on everything is I’ve wired a little pigtail to the battery that hangs under the grill, and then I have spliced in the same male female connector on the 12v feed out lines of the trickle charger.

I can use the trickle charger with its clips, or I can quickly pull the clips off and simply plug it into the pigtail on the vehicle (without even opening the hood). Two things to watch here. 1, make sure the pigtail you buy is at least about 18 or 16 gauge wire. Some of the cheap ones have pretty thin wire 2. When you wire the pigtail on the vehicle, do it so the exposed pin is the ground side, so, in case the coupler flops around it doesn’t short out. I also have one of these with about 20 feet of lamp cord spliced in on the 110 side. They all work fine. I guess my point here is the easier you make it to use, the more likely you will actually use it.

Last thought, these have had a little rain sprinkled on them from time to time, but I don’t think you can get them wet. I have mine set up with a little piece of permanent baling wire close to the device, so when I plug it in under the car, I can hang it under the car off the ground.

One last thought about using a smart trickle charger: it will extend the life of your battery, and it will improve the performance of your battery. The way the smart ones work, they actually cause the buildup on the lead plates in the battery to dissipate.

Charging the batteries when they’re depleted or completely dead is another story. I’ve had a half dozen battery chargers over the years, and most of them have been garbage.

I had an ancient Sears charger that I absolutely loved. It was about the size of a big shoebox if you cut 1/3 of the length off. I think it’s literally from the 50s. It weighed about 10-15 pounds. It was quick and had an automatic cut off, but old technology. The new smart chargers read the voltage, and click on when it needs to be topped off. The old chargers clicked off when the voltage peak was reached, but then the charger would just click on and off with a timer, which over the long run can over charge the battery. Mine got wiped out in a lightning strike. If I ever find another one, I’m going to snatch it up. Maybe two or three.

All the different brand chargers that are kind of like a sheet metal folded box over the electronics, in my experience, do the job, but barely.

When I got hit by the lightning, my insurance provided for a replacement. Even though the Sears charger was from the time of Christ, it was top-of-the-line at the time of Christ, and I was able to buy a top-of-the-line replacement. I got this diehard smart charger. I think it was about $200.

This thing not only charges batteries, it will analyze them. It analyzes every time you connect it up. If you connect it up and let it charge, and when it’s complete, you disconnect it and repeat the process, and record the data, you can go to the literature on this thing, and it will tell you more stuff than you ever wanted to know about your battery.

It also has the 40 amp quick charge feature, and the start up boost feature. I’ve had a lot of battery chargers that claimed to do those two things, but they didn’t work worth a crap. This one really works.

Finally, I have to be true to my past, and throw in a little chemical engineering. Even on the “maintenance free“ batteries, you should check the water levels. Don’t ever put tapwater in the battery. You can buy distilled water at the grocery or at the dollar store for pennies. You can buy a little bottle or bag of battery acid at the auto parts store for a couple bucks. Make a mixture of about 10 or 15% acid to 85 or 90% distilled water, and keep it on the shelf. Use that when your batteries need to be topped off. A gallon will last you a lifetime. Make sure you put it in an acid safe container. I put mine in a glass pickle jar, and I sit the pickle jar inside a plastic bucket.

If the battery is older and the plates are getting clogged, just the clean water won’t do a whole lot. Similarly, if you top them off with pure acid, it could have the opposite effect and still affect the battery negatively. A mild mixture of the two replaces the older lost fluid “in kind.”

Use gloves, use eye protection, and remember batteries generate hydrogen gas: don’t blow your head off. If you suspect an explosion hazard, get someone you don’t like to help you.

I hope it all helps. All comments and criticism welcome as always.

 

[Uncle Gump]

IMHO... those felt "anti-corrosion" washers do nothing but promote corrosion. They're like little sponges.

I just keep the top of my battery clean. Give it a good wipe a few times a year when the hood is open.

 

[ericbphoto]

Keeping the battery clean is important. I smear a heavy coat of dielectric grease on the top of the battery around the post, just where the washer sits. Then the washer. Then the clamp. Then I spray that battery terminal spray over it all. Do NOT put dielectric grease on the post. Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity.