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black usually ground so couldn’t you put that wire on a ground somewhere and see? up until your last 2 messages of details I thought we were having the same problem, now I’m unsure again

Just swapped my cluster for one with a tach, the original on the dash I’ll have no use for. If you end up needing new cluster it’s yours

so I uploaded a video to YouTube it’s only a minute long.. I have a 98 Ford Ranger with a 2.3 harness and pcm replacing the 2.5 harness and pcm. What could be causing a not so firm upper radiator hose that’s cold when the engine is warm all the smoke out the tailpipe? Now my first thought is...

Yesterday I, disassembled and added heat shroud on new up and down stream O2 sensors, wrapped the exhaust (waaaay easier with manifold off of the vehicled..) didn't push it off a cliff cam sensor, and reinstalled the entire wire harness I made new again. ......Still only starts with remote...

ISO PCM for 98 Ranger XLT 2.5 manual (W/O PATS)...FLH2

***ANOTHER UPDATE....I managed to get the truck running! I was only getting 6.8v on fuel pump and 6.8v on fuel inertia cutoff switch. Turns out i needed to connect 2x DarkGreen/YellowStriped wires from Power Distribution Box to the 2x DarkGreen/YellowStriped wires on the engine harness to get...

***Update again, I just went on a limb and got a new fuel pump to be safe, installed, and still can only crank engine by remote control. The relay Clicks when I turn the ignition on, but I'm not getting 12v at the fuel pump. I'm only getting 5v

*******UPDATE: Sorry everyone I've been pretty busy with work... when it rains in Washington people are finding out that their roofs are leaking! lol So... I was able to use a breaker bar lodged inbetween the clutch pedal and driver seat with the key in the "on" position. Crawled under the...

Yes but it didn't sound like it was turning the motor over....just the starter motor spun. I didn't pay attention to it, I was quick to dismiss because I was focused on whether or not it would actually start >.> *EDIT I thought it was a clutch thing.. #ShrugEmoji

Checked all the fuses and they are all good. Relays too. Clutch pedal switch has very minor slop in it-its in good shape. My Instagram followers ( InstaPost ) had suggested to me that i take the battery, starter/solonoid and alternator to get checked. I spun the crankshaft pully as well so motor...

There is no light when the messenger wire ties into the circuit, with ignition on and clutch in @CorbinsRanger

Ok that would be a yellow wire i believe, I'm going to try this when I get home from work

So here’s what I got going on.. like I said, I just installed the air conditioner complete with HVAC about a month prior before it died permanently on me. but I didn’t wire it to the relay box yet because I still needed to get the harnesses.

I don't have the PATS system

ok so i spent $400 at Oriellys' i got the OBD1&2 scanner-it was the best one they had on the shelf...and i got a test light as well. i already have a multimeter.. where should I start my diagnosis? the Power Distrubution box? I'd hate myself if i wired it wrong...I know those clusters of red...

heres what the scanner pulled up

That's why I was kind of thinking Crankshaft Position Sensor and possibly the ECU. I'm headed to the auto parts store to grab a code reader and see what that will tell me

To make this a little bit easier for everyone to see what's happening, I'm going to try to post an introductory walkaround video on youtube and post it here. Just so everyone can be on the same page as me.

yeah it doesn't have anti theft or anything like that, but I have (so I thought) lightly washed the engine bay when I go to the car wash...thought possibly I could have gotten it wet if there was a bad seal or something. Engine is NOT turning over, therefore not starting. Everything beeps as...