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Update!! After being delayed by work and other life events I finally got back to this project. I was able to install the new spring on the passenger side without much issue. Thankfully I could reuse the nuts with that flange to get everything tightened back up. The driver side gave more of an...

Fantastic! Thanks so much. I'll update the thread when the parts come in and report on how the rest went.

I appreciate it. Specifically need: Shackle bolt and spring bolt specs: I suspect they are the same U-bolt specs Shock absorber spec

So far so good. Everything on the right side came apart nicely. I am still waiting for the new springs to come in so I just took apart the passenger side today and got it ready for the new spring. I thought there was some flaking rust but it was just cracking off paint. I took a needler to the...

Is this a time I should use red thread locker? On the spring bolts, the shackle bolts etc? I read somewhere that you should retorque everything after the first 20 miles of driving due to settling of components. Then retorque daily until they don't need added torque. Good idea with securing the...

Took a better look at all the components tonight. Spring bolts and hanger brackets look good so I will reuse them. I will replace the shackles along with the springs, since they are pretty rough looking. Gonna hit everything with penetrant daily until the parts get in. Think ahead for a change.

Thanks for the advice. It has a 2/1 on there now, so that confirms the part number that the website gave as well. Appreciate the comments on ride comfort. I think I will go with the 1100s.

So the door sticker says spring code is E B. B is the rears so I looked it up on this website: https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/ford-door-sticker-decoder/ The decoder says that B code for the rear springs corresponds to "B-5560 spring (F-150)". I wonder if this is accurate since it doesn't...

Yeah you're probably right about that. I was checking the hangers out last night and they looked ok. I'll get a better look in the daylight sometime this week. The truck was a farm truck in Maryland before I owned it. Surprisingly low rust for the year, probably because of the lack of snow/salt...

I have been doing work on the truck and have posted on other issues I've encountered so far. Today I realized that my passenger side leaf spring is broken. I have been struggling to find the correct spring load rating for a replacement. I found this article, but how do I determine if mine has a...

I got a stethoscope after work today. It points me to the vapor canister purge valve solenoid. I can hear it through the stethoscope, and I can feel it with my finger as it clicks. This is odd to me since I just replaced the valve/solenoid along with the connector/wiring, while I was cussing...

Everything looks ok as far as reassembly goes. Revving in neutral yes. Some slight smoke coming from EGR tube where it meets the valve. I think its just the heat getting to the antiseize though.

So I now have a new symptom. It is a ticking noise that starts at about 1800 RPM, accompanied by a slight loss in power. Giving her more throttle at that point the power comes back but the ticking continues. No codes. Any ideas? This tick wasn't there before doing the work.

It wasn't a test drive or anything but an hour of idling in the driveway and no codes popped. I'll drive around the neighborhood this week and call it good.

I found the little pyramid thing that is to the right of the crank sensor. I lined that up with the first tooth after 0 TDC per the install instructions. New one went in with some wiggling, but otherwise not much trouble. She had been sitting for a bit so she needed a jump. Other than that fired...

I finally got the thing out. After several hours of penetrant, channel locks, wait, repeat, I was able to remove the old one. Not in terrible shape, a bit more play than the replacement. It has a motorcraft part number on it, so either its original or was replaced with motorcraft the last time.

I can clearly see the etchings on the balancer, I just don't know what they are supposed to line up with. Are they supposed to point straight down to the ground? Edit: I have a compression gauge so I know that I am on the compression stroke. I just don't know where the markings reference.

Yeah, that's my assumption. I have been hitting it with penetrant and a hammer every 30 minutes today but it wont budge. I gave up on trying to mark how it was position before i messed with it, given the state of the indicator on top (see my photo) I think the last owner also tried this. That...

Turning the crank didn't seem to loosen it up at all. I event set it to what I think TDC/10 deg ATDC is. I have marks on the balancer but I have no mark to line them up with (or at least i don't see a mark to line them up with).

Thanks for the photo. I had already removed the clamp at the point of my original post. My housing is stuck in the hole. I haven't gotten a chance to try again until today. I am turning the crank to see if it releases.