1996 Leaf Spring Replacement

[crowfather]

I have been doing work on the truck and have posted on other issues I've encountered so far. Today I realized that my passenger side leaf spring is broken. I have been struggling to find the correct spring load rating for a replacement. I found this article, but how do I determine if mine has a 1100 rating, 1250, or 1350? https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-explorer-bronco-rear-leaf-spring-specs/

For context I have a '96, standard cab, short bed.

Would the spring code on the door panel sticker tell me somehow?

I want to replace this, so matching the other side is necessary. Is this something that would be smart to do in pairs? The parts get expensive for an old truck; I don't want to sink too much into it.

Thanks

 

[Josh B]

I believe your door sticker has the springs on it, unless I'm mistaken, if so I'd try looking in the wrecking yards for one with the same spring number/letter, and also hope it wasn't totally abused

 

[Uncle Gump]

It's going to be hard to "match" a nearly 3 decade old worn out leaf spring. I'll go as far to say impossible.

I would consider your end game and select a "pair" of springs that best match your goal.

Also... take a serious look at your spring hangers and shackles. They're known to rust through living in the rust belt.

It's gonna be best to just bite the bullet and do it right the first time.

 

[crowfather]

Yeah you're probably right about that. I was checking the hangers out last night and they looked ok. I'll get a better look in the daylight sometime this week. The truck was a farm truck in Maryland before I owned it. Surprisingly low rust for the year, probably because of the lack of snow/salt in southern maryland. I don't think I'll need to do the hangers, not looking forward to grinding out those rivets if I do. Maybe I will just clean it up when the spring is off and use some rust converter or fluidfilm to be sure.

Edit: As for use, I am repairing what I can to make it a daily for a friend who otherwise has no vehicle. I don't want to send it to her without the peace of mind that I did everything I could, within reason, to make it as safe and as reliable as I can for a 28 year old truck. Doesn't need to have super stiff springs since she isn't going to use it for work.

Would spring load rating correlate with traction at any point? I am going to put sand in the back so she doesn't get loose either way, but if I am going to replace the springs then I want to make sure she isn't sliding around with something super stiff.

 

[crowfather]

So the door sticker says spring code is E B. B is the rears so I looked it up on this website:

Ford Door Sticker Decoder - Ford-Trucks.com

1. Exterior Paint Color Code2. Region Code3. Special Order Code4. Wheelbase Code5. Brakes Code6. Interior Trim Color Code7. Tape/Paint Pinstripe Code8. Radio Code9. Axle Code10. Transmission Code11. Spring Code Interior Trim Codes: 1 – limited leather sport bucket seats (Explorer)A – Hampton...

www.ford-trucks.com

The decoder says that B code for the rear springs corresponds to "B-5560 spring (F-150)". I wonder if this is accurate since it doesn't mention the ranger.

I am looking on rock auto, and searching the springs available for my config shows several options. Filtering further with "5560" doesn't narrow down the load rating at all. Searching by "5560B" leaves only 1100 lb load rating options. So I feel pretty confident that 1100 lbs is the correct load rating. There just doesn't seem to be a clear decoding of the sticker so I wanted a dummy check with people who are more experienced than I with these trucks.

That said, per my last message, I am concerned with traction and how spring load rating may affect that. Does anybody have insight in that direction? If a stiffer or softer spring will provide better traction I may go that route if I am going to replace both sides.

Thanks

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

IMO, spring ratings have no influence on traction.
Use the lightest spring load rating if she isn't using the truck for truck like things, it will make the ride smoother.

 

[Roert42]

How many leaves does it have in the pack?

This should tell you the rating.

2+1 would be the 1,100
3+1 would be 1,200

1300 is also a 3+1 but with thicker leaves.


Regardless I would replace both at the same time. I will ride weird with one old worn out leaf and one new one.



Since it's a single cab short bed, it's probably one of the lower two spring rates. If it just gets used as a beer runner/ bop around type jobber, I would go with the lightest springs. It'll ride nicer.

 

[crowfather]

Thanks for the advice. It has a 2/1 on there now, so that confirms the part number that the website gave as well.

Appreciate the comments on ride comfort. I think I will go with the 1100s.

 

[crowfather]

Took a better look at all the components tonight. Spring bolts and hanger brackets look good so I will reuse them. I will replace the shackles along with the springs, since they are pretty rough looking. Gonna hit everything with penetrant daily until the parts get in. Think ahead for a change.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think you're making the correct choice.

Straight forward job...

 

[Josh B]

I wouldn't recommend putting sand in the back unless it's in quality sand bags
Haha, I'm a cheapo, once after a snow and ice I got two bags of sand or gravel, not sure which, and when it was over,,,,,, I took em back

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Make sure the bags are tied down some how, wouldn't want one in the back of the head.
Once saw a truck with a false plywood bottom. It was filled with sand.

 

[crowfather]

Is this a time I should use red thread locker? On the spring bolts, the shackle bolts etc? I read somewhere that you should retorque everything after the first 20 miles of driving due to settling of components. Then retorque daily until they don't need added torque.

Good idea with securing the bags. I can get tube sand that is meant for water breaks for $5 for 70lbs. I think the tubes are ok to handle water.

 

[don4331]

I think you're making the correct choice.

Straight forward job...

Might be a straight forward job, but on trucks I've done, the bolts at the spring ends are always so rusted into the bushings that I have to cut the bolts (sawzall) and replace them.

Interesting - the F150 springs are same 25" (front) 31" (rear) length and 2-1/2" width as Ranger springs. Don't know if the bolt hole in the bushing is same, but they might be same part. Which leads to other ideas. (HD F-150s have same seriously heavier springs...)

 

[Uncle Gump]

I did say straight forward... not easy.

Spring eye bolts... shackle bolts... hanger bolts all use pinch type lock nuts. I put anti seize on the shoulder portion of those... no lock tite. Once torqued... you could paint mark them for a quick visual inspection point. I never retorqued those... no loctite.

U-bolt nuts are the same... I typically check torque after 100 miles give or take. No anti seize or loctite. I would just ensure there is about the same amount threads above the nut as the thickness of the nut when tightened.

Opinions will vary... but I feel the most important part is using the correct fasteners in the first place.