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1/2 Ton Buggy Build


Kyle M.

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97TrailRigDD

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Thanks setting up gears isn't my favorite thing to do but it's not as bad as most people think.

Found out that because 8.8 repair bearings stick out from the axle about 3/16" they wont work with the Grizzly locker. Had to go back to regular bearings and seals so the axle would go in far enough to get the c clips on.

Got the front 5.13's in but the pin broke off on the spindle nut so I ordered some stage 8's.
Pics suck must have been shacking. And rear backlash was 0.012 front was 0.006.

 

97TrailRigDD

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Checked the timing and base was at 14 with 2 different timing lights. But with vacuum hooked up it was 38 and full advance was 48. Is this possible?

It's a roller 5.0 with a new 85 distributer from autozone that is controlled by a 6al box.

I was thinking it should have been more like 14 28 and 42 instead of 14 38 and 48.
 

scooter

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Checked the timing and base was at 14 with 2 different timing lights. But with vacuum hooked up it was 38 and full advance was 48. Is this possible?

It's a roller 5.0 with a new 85 distributer from autozone that is controlled by a 6al box.

I was thinking it should have been more like 14 28 and 42 instead of 14 38 and 48.

Wowwwww mine is 9* without vacuum line.
IIRC book said 10* or 12*.
 

4.0B2

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Kyle M.

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Are you using the right vacuum port? I don't know much about carbs, and mechanical distributors, but i think on a gas carb there is a metered vacuum and direct vacuum. Is tete other vacuum ports you can use?
 

martin

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So you're getting 24 degrees of vacuum advance? Wow. that don't seem right. I've never seen one with more than 14. Total advance to aim for is 38.
 

97TrailRigDD

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Yeah I was thinking max vacuum advance was 14. And which ports are used only changed when it saw vacuum like at idle or just off idle. But I haven't messed with a adjustable distributers since I had VW bugs, everything is done on laptops with the efi stuff.
 

97TrailRigDD

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Okay after reading some of this page http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php?t=5543&highlight= I see that I should have checked the total advance with vacuum disconnected because under load at high rpm vacuum should be almost zero. And vacuum advance is only to add timing in low rpm situations when mechanical advance won't add it.

Also read some about plugging the vacuum and just using base and mechanical but I don't know how well this will work for crawling.
 

dieseldane

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If it doesn't fit, force it!
I beleive that if you are going to be running it hooked to vacuum, then your total needs to be checked with it hooked up.
 

97TrailRigDD

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I beleive that if you are going to be running it hooked to vacuum, then your total needs to be checked with it hooked up.
That is what I was thinking too. But with it revved up in neutral and no load it will show like 20hg of vacuum but under load more like 5-0hg. As rpms climb under load vacuum advance goes away and mechanical advance starts adding the timing but with no load or at cruising rpm they both will max out. Atleast that's what I read on the internet.
 

97TrailRigDD

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2 valve stems should be better than 1

Inner air locks only adds 5lbs per wheel. Not bad for double beadlock and run flat.
 

97TrailRigDD

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Picked up a set of JBA shorty headers and a cam from a buddy.
Should be good for some low end power.

The cam may be too big. It's a 232/240. Anybody know about 5.0 cams?
 

RangerSVT

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That is a pretty big cam, you will most probably have valve clearance issues...


SVT
 

97TrailRigDD

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Yeah and I don't want any issues like that. It's probably more of a rock bouncer kind of can and I need one more for crawling. I'll just give it back.
 

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