• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

100k maintenance


Bill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
1,062
Reaction score
898
Points
113
Location
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I could be wrong here but I think this was only an issue with the 01-04 2.3 trucks that had the electric thermostat. I know they changed designs to a traditional thermostat from 05+.
The earlier eletric ones also cost about 150 bucks. :icon_surprised:
I've seen a lot of posts about the thermostat used on this engine in various car forums wherein this engine is used. From that, I'm deducting that it is very likely the thermostat will need to be replaced after about 100K. Mine started opening early around that time. It got progressively worse as time went on, to the point where I thought it was stuck open. It wasn't stuck open when I took it out, but I tested it and it started to open at 130 degrees. I replaced it and all is good now. I was just suggesting replacing it when changing the coolant because it is located at the bottom of the engine and requires draining the coolant. So, for the price, ease, and insurance of not having to drain the coolant next spring, I think replacing it as preventative maintenance is a good idea.
 


dbellamah2001

New Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2019
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
cincinnati, oh
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
You may also consider doing water pump and coolant flush and or radiator replacement and new thermostat. And serpentine belt. Just thinking ahead. And also heater core? Timing chain or belt ? depending on year. And service A/C as well. And the mileage? Chain oil regular. and all fluids.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
19,304
Reaction score
13,329
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Yea... why not do 3,000 dollars worth of repairs.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
1,062
Reaction score
898
Points
113
Location
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
19,304
Reaction score
13,329
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
How are you saving money by fixing stuff yourself if the things you're fixing aren't broken?

And that is now my new riddle...
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
1,062
Reaction score
898
Points
113
Location
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
How are you saving money by fixing stuff yourself if the things you're fixing aren't broken?

And that is now my new riddle...
I'm not suggesting to fix things that aren't broken. But, at 100K miles the thermostat is likely to go very soon. The water pump too, for that matter. But the water pump costs several times the price of a thermostat, so I would wait on that.
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,005
Reaction score
1,988
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
1. What are your driving parameters? 2. How long do you keep a vehicle? 3. Do you perform your own maint. work? 4. What are your mechanical abilities?. These questions are very important if you haven't already considered them

If you flip them often or keep them awhile might be worth considering, from your questions and their somewhat(to me) obvious answers. I always crawl underneath and look for bolts that have been removed, swapped transmissions, other things that have been done, loose wires hanging around, parts marked with junk yard chalk etc, before committing to buy it in the first place

If you think your vehicle may be a "keeper", you will certainly want to acquaint yourself very well with it. I have always encouraged anyone who buys a used vehicle(which can be an extremely beneficial, or a very horrible experience, usually depending on your initial examination, to get it right the first time, because after that it's all yours) to stop at the parts store on their way home and get a repair manual for that vehicle. It actually takes some experience to even recognize a keeper when you first check it out. After my first visual and the initial walk around I will have already stuck my finger up the tailpipe and rubbed it around(kinda like a dr does haha) and if it comes out filled with soot my next few steps will likely be an exit

If you never go more than an easy towing distance, maybe you can juggle things around, but if it's a hundred, or hundreds of miles you drive you'll want to consider the high cost of "help" far from home. If this tow will be headed to your shop (or shade tree), or to "theirs" can be a very large monetary consideration.

If you do your own work, and are experienced enough to recognize the safety differences between secured jack stands and chocked wheels, or a bumper jack which is leaning a bit and sitting on a slope, you can possibly and hopefully safely save yourself a lot of dough.

You've had a lot of good answers here, from some very experienced mechanics, and owners who do know a lot about things, many of them more than me, and I am not touting any of their advice, I seek it myself Very often. So I can only say, If it was me(and I was in your situation) I would have already considered all these things, classified it as a keeper, and had my wrenches ready to drop the pan, carefully observing the fluid for excessive metal(especially larger pieces), put a new filter in it, and fill it up with the proper fluid, and dang the torpedoes, full speed ahead.

Well, that's only me. It's been a long time since I had an automatic that I did much with other than maintain it, which included changing the fluid and filter. I did have to swap a C6 for a C4 before ever really knowing the difference, on the side of the highway with a cousin, headed to New Orleans, on our way to Brazil, around 1978, but that's a whole nuther story :)
 
Last edited:

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Truck of The Month


Mudtruggy
May Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top