Welcome to TRS
OBD1 codes are not very good, lol
basically 11 or 111 means computer checks out OK
You need to pay attention to the pauses between flash of the light, that will tell you if your system is using 2 digit or 3 digit codes
Info here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml
Cold start, all fuel injection computers need a way to detect coolant temp, is engine cold or is this a restart(engine warm).
ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is what the computer uses.
This is different from the ECT SENDER, 1 wire, used for the dash board temp gauge
ECT sensor has 2 wires and only the computer uses it.
These are not too expensive, $6, so I would just change it.
You can test it cold and then warm with volt meter and sewing pin
1 wire will have 5 volts when key is on
Other wire will have about 3volts cold, depends on outside temp
And it will have about .5volt warmed up, under 1 volt
So volts drop as engine warms up
Use sewing pin to pierce the wires to find out which is which and to test voltage that the computer is "seeing"
This voltage tells the computer to run "Choke mode" rich mix, high idle, advanced spark, when engine is cold.
And to lean out the mix and lower idle as engine warms up
If ECT sensor has connector corrosion or is simply failing then its voltage back to computer could be changing(dropping) and then popping back up, this can cause your symptom and check engine light(CEL) to go on and then off as well
You could have 118(ECT sensor fault), 411(idle control fault) or 84(EGR system fault) depending on 2 or 3 digit code being used