1989 2.9L Ranger Build

[canthelpitimaguy]

thanks turtle.

I already did the free floating rocker mod (which from what i could tell from priming the oil system, works amazingly. tons of oil to the rocker assembly), but decided not to port for reasons i posted earlier in the thread. Would have loved too tho.

So the engine is in the truck but it took some wrestling to get it together. I originally had the whole header assembly together on the engine before the install, but found that one of the cross members wouldn't allow the flange on the y pipe that bolts up to my brand new cats to pass by it. We removed the y pipe and got the engine in but I had to remove one side of the headers to get the y pipe back on. Then i had to wrestle the cat to get that to line up with the y pipe and found out the gasket i was provided with the cat was way to small...Anyway, by the time i got everything together i had to leave. Dont have pictures of the engine in the truck yet but i will post some of the pictures of the complete assembly when i figure out how to get them off my phone....

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

Ok, here are the pictures of the engine and trans and all right before install

So just a side note about the Pacesetter Headers. When i was installing the O2 sensor, i realized that it is located before the two pipes merge...essentially only seeing one bank of exhaust. On the original y pipe the sensor was located in the middle right after they pipes merge but on this one it does not. Dont think it will really affect anything, just thought it was funny looking....

 

[jhammel85]

Motor looks great!

 

[firebomb]

motor looks awesome! are you still thinking turbo what about a remote mounted one? by remote mounted you can mount it any ware in the exhaust system like after the cat or were the tail pipe is etc... i thought it would be easier to do it that way this way all you would need is a couple flanges that is if you got room to do it?for the piping etc... btw they sell the t3 turbo flanges here at www.vibrantperformance.com just got to search the site... they even sell the out and in after i looked at that option i considered running a super charger by fabing a bracket to mount it were my air conditioning was four bolt hold it down and the other would hold the super they sell the super i would use at kraftwerksusa.com i think it would be easier this way by the way tom morna V6 racing has a air in take box that would be nice in this set up but cost a pretty penny. at $850 any ways the super ran about 2-3 grand and had it own oiling system etc just needs inter cooler and piping. the super would be just like a turbo almost a turbo/ super. i think if they mounted a belt pulley to a turbo this would be it. any ways see link and copy paste them and check them out or what ever..



http://www.vibrantperformance.com/



http://store.kraftwerksusa.com/rotrex/rotrex-head-units.html

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

Thanks Jham!

Thanks for the input firebomb, and i might use that vibrant site for some exhaust tips or something. I mentioned its going to be a rear mount in my original post, but I am going to fab up the parts i need myself that way i have a bit more flexibility as far as placement. The supercharger is both out of my price range and would ruin the stock appearance of the engine bay. It will be easier to round up the parts for a turbo build and then custom fab the plumbing to save some cash. I have a lot more time than money so diy options are higher on my list haha.

Also, a supercharger is a supercharger. Doesn't matter if its roots or centri, appearance doesn't really change anything regarding function. Obviously, a centri takes advantage of the same principles as a turbo, but it will function totally different. Anyway, like i said, supercharger is out of the picture because it will ruin my "stock appearance."

Truck runs beautifully, and i will post a video of it soon. when we were trying to install the new T.O. Bearing, we buggered up the hydraulic bung that connects the slave cylinder to the master. Waiting on that part, and then the truck will be ready to start the break in process. I took it for a 3 mile cruise to test everything out by starting it in first and speed shifting and everything seems to be running amazingly.

Posted some pictures of the engine drop and completed assembly:

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

just a side note....im very upset with how NOT blue my engine looks with all that crap piled on top of it....even tho its an eye sore and almost looks edited in on those top pictures haha

Anyways, ill get a picture from under the truck when i get it lifted up to finish the clutch assembly. The header y-pipe runs nicely along one of the cross members as you will see when i get those pictures, but i have to trim a few screws so they done ware a hole in the fresh exhaust system....

And finally, the last pre-turbo mod that i have to do is make a heat shield for my starter....the header runs almost right next to it (within 4 inches) so i need some protection for that bad boy...

I will get pictures of all these things this weekend when i get everything together. I will hold off on the video until then also, that way i can get better footage....all i have right now is idle footage and video of the steering wheel when i was trying to record the tach....stupid phone touch screen froze so i thought it wasnt doing anything....first world problems...

 

[firebomb]

i brought up the remote mount cause it is more do able with your engine as i can tell you know already. i brought up the super cause i got a different motor mine is a 1994 3.0 L were you got a 2.9 so the space is different same with the a/c mounting spots etc... were the super will work with mine but maybe not yours see my point. it give a few choices. any ways wishing you luck cause i want to see track number and or dyno info... pictures etc...

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

i see your point, and i was only saying im sticking with the remote turbo because it fits my design requirements. The turbo would also fit easier, i never noticed how little space there is in my engine bay because i didnt follow the supercharger idea too far.

As far as dyno info....i dont like dynos....there are too many variables and i never trust anything that comes off them. Track times however, only real variable is driver skill and you can almost remove that factor by multiple drivers and multiple passes. Doesn't give you hp or ft/lb numbers but those dont really matter in the real world, as far as im concerned 1/4mi times are what counts.

Ill try to have a video up by next week.

After the truck gets on the road officially (hopefully Saturday) I will start to gather the turbo parts. Im planning on gathering all the parts i need and assemble a "kit" and pre-fab as much as i can before i start digging into the truck. I cant afford to take this off the road for more than a weekend or so since i will be using the truck as my DD.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

OK so there is a delay on the video. My father finished up the clutch while I was away, and everything seemed tip top and ready to roll....then, we went to have it inspected and found a small fuel leak....so have to hold off until we figure that out. Hopefully its an easy fix and we can get on our way.

For some reason the engine doesn't want to idle smoothly. I will have to get a timing light on it to check the timing again but can anyone think of why it would act like this?

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

Idle issue has been found. The timing was off slightly, and my uncle informed me that there may have been an issue from the beginning. When we first started the truck, I accidentally bumped off one of the injector wires so I was only firing on 5 cylinders. He thinks that during the learning period early on this could have caused the computer some issues.

Anyway, the fuel line has been botched....the idle smoothed out...the flux capacitors are messed and synchronized.....and everything's ready to go.....now I realized I forgot to paint the headers...they look horrible. I plan on getting the lift from Autofab and will have to replace the beams, so when I do that job I will just pull the headers and paint them then.

Otherwise the truck is now ready for a turbo. I will make a full parts list of the things I plan on getting for the truck....feel free to leave me feedback on the parts im getting

 

[DCinDC]

Proper turbo sizing formulas will give you numbers for a bigger turbo than you need or want.

The IHI turbo is a great match for the low rpm 2.9 engine. Even a T3 from a turbo 2.3 wouldn't respond as fast as the IHI does.

I wouldn't have used headers. They won't last like exmans will. And new exmans are available cheap.

Never heard of those heads. I wonder if they are World Products clones or what.

A different cam could increase power, but it's not economical. My truck has PLENTY of power and can still get 26 mpg on the highway. The wide flat powerband of the stock 2.9 is one reason it's a great turbo candidate. Alot of that has to do with the stock cam profile.

My turbo is fed engine oil, it is not a divorced system.

Good luck, lemme know if you need more questions answered.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

Turbo Parts List (All of my info is coming from DCinDC, I am going to mimic his build):

1. Crane Timing Retard
2. Cartech Rising Rate FMU….Where do I find one of these?
3. Oil Pump -- Going to “T” off of the oil pressure switch like DCinDC did with his truck here. (Hope you dont mind I used your picture from that thread as an example of what I plan on doing.) I would like to know where you mounted your oil pump though DCinDC.
4. Vortech Trex (or other similar pump)
   DCinDC, what fuel pump did you run in your tank? I know you said stock type, but is it the actual stock pump?
5. IHI Turbo from a Thunderbird turbo coupe or a T-3. All depends on availability and price.
6. Misc. piping, wiring, relays, gauges, etc.

 

[DCinDC]

google much?

http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.htm

I think it was the naturally aspirated one. Details on the differences are in the instructions on their site.

I was looking over my notes. We turbo'd the truck in April 2005.

My return oil pump is mounted to the frame on a welded bracket we made, back by the turbo. Getting a suitable pump was the most difficult and time consuming part of this whole project. The first oil return pump was a Ford frame rail fuel pump. It leaked after about a week. Next was a universal diesel lift pump from the parts store, for 9 dollars. I was REALLLY hoping that one would last. Nope just a few days later it was leaking.

I did ALOT of research during this period. I wasn't going to pay 300 for a racing diff pump.

After a few other fits and starts I bought a ShurFlo pump. I contacted a dealer on the net and told him exactly what I was doing and he told me which one to get. I strongly recommend you do the same. They make about 100 different variations of the 8000 series pump that I have. You will need someone to tell you which one to get.

I haven't had ANY problems with the Shurflo pump.

The rear mount turbo guys (forget their name) have all kinds of oil pressure safety features in their wiring. pffft. I just unscrew my oil fill cap and see if oil is coming out the nipple for return oil that I screwed right down the middle of it. If so, then I'm good. If not, it's too late.

I don't remember what fuel pump is in the tank. It could be stock, or stock replacement or a 255 hi pressure Walbro.

I already had the Vortech TRex pump that's the only reason I used it. Whatever you use needs to be able to build pressure (and still flow alot) against a restriction. That's how the FMU works, by restricting the fuel return. A 255 hi pressure will do that but I think the Vortech will do it better.

I would STRONGLY recommend the IHI over a T3. I did this to make the truck scoot around, not full throttle max rpm racing. Alot of why it lives is the fact that it just can't be in the boost that long, you run out of road. Even when I have BLASTED back from places more than 2 hours away at normal speeds, hammering it and passing EVERYBODY, it still wasn't in the boost continuously. Alot maybe, but not continuously.

The IHI gives it GREAT response and a mega torque bump at 3-3500. Which means I just don't rev it hard at all. I shift at 5000 when I am REALLY getting on it. Alot lower when I am just going. You just don't need to rev it hard. It's like how you would drive a stout big block, cause that's what the power curve is like.

Like I said it was about 1000 dollars worth of stuff to get the 50 dollar turbo to work happily with the engine. And none of it is engine hard parts.


After any mechanical issues are sorted out, it's all about the FMU and big ass fuel pumps.

There's a lot of power left to be found in my combo, but I honestly don't care. It's got plenty as it is, and it's simple and reliable.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

so just a side note from what you said from oil pressure safety....shouldn't the oil pressure be the same as the dash gauge readout if its coming right off the sender? Would I notice a pressure change if i'm not getting flow? I thought about putting a T right at the turbo for a gauge but i figured coming right off the sender already gives me what i'm looking for....no?

 

[DCinDC]

Don't worry about it. It's just an added safeguard.

If there is a massive oil loss anywhere it will show on the gauge or idiot light.