1992 4x4 daily driver low budget build

[IdigAUinNV]

I recently purchased a 1992 Ranger XLT 4x4 with 4.0/A4LD/3.73 ratio.
The trans won’t go into gear without revving the engine. So a rebuild or replacement likely in order, and the tires need replacement before the snow flies no matter what I do with the truck.

My plans are to use the truck as a daily driver and for light duty off road for hunting, fishing, mining, camping exploring and towing of a trailer under 4K lbs.

I will be doing most, if not all of the work myself and my budget is $4,000 including the transmission, which I can do myself along with other minor issues with the truck.
I anticipate doing a suspension or body lift kit to allow for larger tires, and using the stock wheels if usable for the tire size I decide to go with, most likely in the 31-33” range. I am thinking reliable function over form for this build.

Any ideas or thoughts appreciated!

W

 

[Josh B]

How did you find an AU in NV? I guess they're some in common eh/
Welcome to TRS man

 

[IdigAUinNV]

How did you find an AU in NV? I guess they're some in common eh/
Welcome to TRS man

Haven’t found any yet in NV. All mine in past came from Cali, but relocated to NV in 2016.
still looking for place todo some fruitful prospecting.

W

 

[Josh B]

I think they're farther north, used to be some in the Black Hills.
You need to talk to that fella in BC and Calgary, up in western Canada.
Tho I've never seen him mention it he may know something about it, or know "this old fella" who does
You also might want to look for some of the "chip" materials, but that stuff might get you shot with a chinese/ruskie bullet

 

[scotts90ranger]

You should be able to fit 31" tires stock if that helps any decisions, might be tight up front though...

 

[RangerNumber3]

First thing you should do is get rid of those auto locking hubs. They are junk!

 

[Blmpkn]

I thought the auto hubs were regarded as stronger than the manual ones..

 

[Josh B]

The auto are actually standard equipment, and the manual are regarded as "heavy duty". Some have very low opinions of the auto, I however have found them to be more than adequate, it is a simple matter of using a bit of automatic transmission fluid to lube the auto during maintenence (Not wheel bearing grease )

 

[Shran]

I thought the auto hubs were regarded as stronger than the manual ones..

Having disassembled a lot of both, I don't believe that there is any difference in strength. The auto hubs just tend to not work when you need them to, mostly because they get packed full of wheel bearing grease. The manual ones also get packed full of grease over time but they still work that way.

 

[IdigAUinNV]

You should be able to fit 31" tires stock if that helps any decisions, might be tight up front though...

I was leaning towards 31’s, as they will fit stock. But, I don’t mind doing a 4” lift and going a little bigger.
will 31’s fit the stock wheels?

 

[IdigAUinNV]

First thing you should do is get rid of those auto locking hubs. They are junk!

Having spent 30 years as a mechanic for a large utility with a lot of super duty’s, I have mixed feeling on them.
Some of our linemen could break anything, so either type was fair game for destruction. But the auto hubs were more fussy to keep them operating properly. Lot of “no 4x4” calls with those. Not many for manuals hubs.

4x4 not working now, so if it’s much more then vacuum line issue, I will likely upgrade them to manuals.

Need to consider the budget. Mile Markers with conversion kit runs about $260 or about 6.5% of budget.

Got to watch out for budget creep!

 

[scotts90ranger]

The auto hubs are cam actuated so nothing external like a vacuum line, they rely on friction between the plastic cam and the wheel bearing nut to actuate... they rely on the axle shafts spinning and both tires being fairly attached to the road to work so with an open diff and one tire stopped like if you're stuck it won't engage... and they break because changing directions I believe they disengage then reengage so if you're rocking it there's momentum...

They should fit on the stock wheels, some tire shops get cranky mounting wide tires to narrow wheels but a '92 should have wide enough wheels...

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you do all of the work yourself... 4K knocks a bunch off the to do list. I would probably go further if ya need to to do it right if the truck is solid.

I think 31 inch tires are a good choice. Any taller would likely require a gear change to keep it in the power. 31's are also better for daily duty stuff. They will certainly fit your 7 inch wide wheels. They're bigger then stock and the first and second gen have small wheel openings.

I'm not really into tall body lifts. But... they do gain body clearance for tires and clearance to powertrain... fir fixing stuff. A good suspension lift totally blows your budget.

I'm thinkin fresh HD springs all around... a 1 inch body lift on 31's would be a pretty sweet spot and keep your budget from creeping.

You wouldn't get hurt ensuring you have 10 inch brakes on the rear. The finned Aerostar drums are a great upgrade and still budget friendly.

Cool project... have fun with it.

 

[IdigAUinNV]

If you do all of the work yourself... 4K knocks a bunch off the to do list. I would probably go further if ya need to to do it right if the truck is solid.

That’s what I was thinking. The “Executive Budget Committee” aka the wife, is onboard with $4k. I can see it hitting $5k ish, and am prepared to negotiate that.

I think 31 inch tires are a good choice. Any taller would likely require a gear change to keep it in the power. 31's are also better for daily duty stuff. They will certainly fit your 7 inch wide wheels. They're bigger then stock and the first and second gen have small wheel openings.

I agree with that logic. I just need to find the right tires. I not into real aggressive tread or wide tires.

I'm not really into tall body lifts. But... they do gain body clearance for tires and clearance to powertrain... fir fixing stuff. A good suspension lift totally blows your budget.

Was originally looking into a 3” body lift, but didn’t like the idea of the bumpers not moving with the body. Just started researching lift kits. I saw one in the $600 range. But I do know better then to think it’s a great one.

I'm thinkin fresh HD springs all around... a 1 inch body lift on 31's would be a pretty sweet spot and keep your budget from creeping.

Great idea on the springs. I was going to replace all the suspension rubber, so replacement springs fit into that scenario.
Are there 1” body lift kits or fab my own?

You wouldn't get hurt ensuring you have 10 inch brakes on the rear. The finned Aerostar drums are a great upgrade and still budget friendly.

Did the Ranger come with 10’s on the rear? I haven’t had time to jack it up and inspect the underpinnings.

Lots of good info to chew on and parts info to research. Thanks!

Cool project... have fun with it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm considering a 1 inch body lift myself. While it use to be available as a kit... no longer true. There are shops out there... even ebay that sell 1 inch aluminum pucks. I've read that 1 inch requires no other alterations. Slip the pucks in... tighten them down... done. No radiator/hose/shroud issues... no filler hose... steering shaft... wire harness... and the bumpers stay where they were meant to be. It does end up with a bigger gap at the bumper... but livable.

Rangers come with 9 or 10 inch brakes. Typically 9 inch on the 7.5 rear end... 10 inch on the 8.8 rear end. You will have to check the door tag... and look in the Tech Library for your axle code.