1992 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 4.0L 'Old Cliff"


MrSchaeferPants

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Vehicle Year
1992
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Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33
Edit: 7/15/19: Finally saw that tiny writing saying this section is not for questions. That needs to be bigger :) So I'ma just edit the title and then posts some updates.

My intro got a little tech-y so I'll post a few newbie questions.

When I bought the truck the temperature and volt meter gauge didn't work. Key on/off the volt meter doesn't move at all.

The temp gauge when I got home is basically where it is now in the pic, but settled down a needle's thickness worth, but doesn't move or anything while driving. When I got home I checked the trans fluid (cause there's a tiny leak at the linkage) and the engine bay was super duper hot, handling the hood prop was like holy crap that's hot. So where is the temperature sending unit so I can make sure it's plugged in/not corroded, and is there a nice article on removing the dash to get to the gauge to make sure that's connected/grounds/etc, and where to go from there. I'm waiting for the engine to cool to check the coolant, but my overflow reservoir is empty because that does leak.

My vent fan blower randomly vibrates funky on high, I turn it one click lower, then back to high and it's ok for a while till I hit bumps. Also doesn't seem super strong. To check the blower motor/possible debris, loose bolts, connections, etc. Do I remove that lower felt cover inside under the dash? Pic posted.

I had a L/R wheel cylinder leak, replaced it and its good. Do need to buy a new e-brake cable..... but I might just save for a disc conversion kit. Recommendations? I've read some articles posted in the tech section on mustang parts, explorer parts, e-brake stuff, 28/31 spline stuff, cutting new caliper brackets, anti-moan brackets etc. But just wanna buy a whole dang kit and be done, it's not a priority. Some of these posts are 10 years old. I don't have the means to fabricate anything at the moment. Just a recommendation for a bolt and go kit. I saw some for around $391 from Summit, $639 from SSBC. I'm just new to Ford don't know the stuff.

Trans leak at the shifter linkage. Looks straight forward. Drop the pan, there's a nut on the inside. Replace the seal. I'm pretty sure I have the right part at rockauto, but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone can provide a link to both a good gasket/filter kit and the proper seal for the linkage?

And a cheap catalytic converter/muffler set up to pipe past the 02 where it connects. The pipe's missing, it all looks old and rusted to snot. I don't care if right after the bracket where the pipe is broken if I do a 90 degree turn down for now. I can have a shop finish it out past the tire later. This isn't a priority either.

Has blocks, its lifted, is this 4"? Two separate 2" blocks? The upper block is 2 3/4 and the lower is 2 1/2 sitting on that spring perch. Ubolt is a foot long. Don't care for it, wouldn't mind the 1.5-2" lift via springs. I like minimal suspension lift for what I want, like a spring pack, and fender trimming, maybe 31" tires. It has 33s but it don't fit. R/R tire has a line down it from where it hits the fender. I can't turn the front lock to lock w/o rubbing. Any preferences for a tiny tiny bit of lift like I said 2" or so. Front springs? I've always had solid axles. My end goal is a tiny bit of suspension lift, fender trimming and 31s with 33s one day when I get new axles with a lower gear ratio. I have 3.27 gears currently. I just want it to ride nice, its a daily driver. Ultimately I'd like a tiny bit of lift, as good handling as I could have, 4.10-4.56. This isn't a crawler, its a DD, that I would play in once in a while later when I could. I never drive highway, AR has nothing but two lane twisty back roads.

Appreciate any info, opinions. I've been out of the game for some years, I gotta learn Ford and Ranger stuff. A lot of this is over time, first priority is the trans leak, now this possible temperature/coolant thing. Dunno if my pump is pumping. And Tires/rims, even used 31s for now. But I'd like tires and rims, 16x7 figure that's a more common size for tires. A 31 or 265'ish size by 10.5 or 70. Maybe even narrower. 31x9? I dunno. First set will be used just to get rid of these 33s on a 15x10 rim so I can drive this thing. Steering is sloppy, it rides rough. There is some chatter feel when I take off, I drive it like a grandpa because I'm afraid of the axles or trans.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I have a 91 with the 4.0l and 3.27. It has 29" tires. [ 235/75r15 = 29" ] Those are pushing it for the gearing. Its great for freeway driving tho. I would suggest getting 29" or shorter tires until the gearing is changed. Related; I bet the chatter is the clutch being worn due to the 33" tires.
 

MrSchaeferPants

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1992
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33
And then today this morning it took a long time cranking before it started, and same when I left work. Then while I was driving home it died probably 8-10 times. So yay. No hesitations or stumbling, idles and drives smooth. Not electrical radio and blower motor still running (Had the heat running just in case). Laser said the block was no more than 220-30'ish in multiple spots. To make sure I'm not a dumbass I'ma dump a gallon in but my gauge still reads 1/4 was on F when I bought it. Guess I have some reading to do.
 
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Bird76Mojo

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Total Lift
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My credo
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Keep the fuel tank topped off for a week or so and see if the issues remain.

It almost sounds like fuel pressure might be bleeding off. That would be easy to confirm with a fuel pressure gauge.
 

MrSchaeferPants

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4WD
Tire Size
33
When I bought it two things. One, he said they replaced the fuel pump. Two, it was on F, I've never bought a vehicle on full.
 

Bird76Mojo

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Could be a weak fuel pump. I've even seen the fuel feed line (inside the tank, on the pump) come partially loose and not deliver full pressure to the line.

But the fact that you say it's taking longer to crank over makes me think it's losing fuel pressure after sitting long enough. I still suggest investing in a fuel pressure gauge to see if the pressure at the fuel rail bleeds off over several hours.. Or borrow one from a buddy or co-worker.
 

MrSchaeferPants

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Tire Size
33
When I left the house I keyed it on/off a few times, read that would build up pressure for a better start, and it did. Topped off the tank after work today (first time driving it since) and it rode just fine, started just fine. First time in a long time I spent $60 in gas lol. Either my gauge is WAY off, or I get 5 miles per gallon. But now I can reset my odometer and keep track... sorta with the 33s. Still looking for tires. I need to milk this tranny however long is has left. Read 215/225/235 was the normal size (x75) So 28'ish. I need a parts truck.
 

Bird76Mojo

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4WD
Total Lift
4" Superlift
Tire Size
33"
My credo
Good enough
Yeah, your MPG calculations will be off quite a bit because of the tires causing the speedo/odometer being off..
 

MrSchaeferPants

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33
So I replaced the L/R brake cylinder AND one of the push rods from the cylinder to the brake shoe since I lost it. Did that a few weeks back. Man it was a while since I did some drum work, I need a pair of brake pliers. BUT maybe not, I'm keeping my eye out for a 95+ explorer rear 3.73-4.10 so I can get some disc brakes.

Bought a set of headlamps. My driver headlight was melted through the housing when I bought it, put them on today so now I'm not scared of an electrical fire anymore. I was just going to buy one, I'm so happy I got the set for just a little more; big difference in clarity.

That led me to my final headlight annoyance; the door jamb switch wasn't turning the dinging off when my headlights were on, so I spent quite a few drives to or from work with 'ding... ding... ding..." for 15 minutes straight. So I bought a new switch. Still dinged, said screw it and hot glued two nickels to the door to shut 'er up. Was there supposed to be a little rubber nub on the door? Spent $11.99 on a switch, when 10¢ and some hot glue would have fixed it :ROFLMAO:

Haven't done squat with the transmission. Though I will do a fluid/filter change soon and replace the leaking shifter linkage seal.

I'm keeping my eye out for some used wheels and tires, but haven't found any in my price range. Also looked at these Trail Master TM9 15x8 steelies. I just need cheap, read here a 15x8 should be 3.75 backspace. I could throw on some used shoes for the time being. I'm waiting to hear back from them what size the center bore hole is. I'd be happy with some from a junk yard but the ones here are iffy, shady, and backwoodsy- in a bad way, and the closest pick and pull is an hour away. Not driving this truck that far yet till I do some more fixes.

Oh, and keeping the tank topped off has put a band-aid on the hard to start and problems with it dying, not a once since. I haven't put a gauge on it yet. That should be my next thing I do.
 

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MrSchaeferPants

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Location
Hot Springs, AR
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33
Rims in! 15x8. And lug nuts too. I dunno what tire size. 235/75/r15 or so. Whatever I can find used for now. Got other fish to fry, just has to last me xx months.
 

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