1994 2.3 very low rpms at idle and when driving

[--weezl--]

what kind of water pump issues?

 

[cmattina]

well, perhaps it isn't getting enough power from an old fan belt that is full of cracks and isnt getting fluid through the engine as it should, giving the engine problems that the computer thinks are problems with the MAF and ignition system... which would explain why when it gets to operating temperature the light goes off... meaning, the faults are causing the problems with tach, which is more likely than the opposite

 

[--weezl--]

i HIGHLY doubt that is the case... does it squeal when it starts up, and/or continue to squeal while driving?

if no, your belt is fine

 

[wr250rdr]

If it was anything with the water side of the motor it would be in the t-stat sticking or a partially blocked housing. How long does your motor take to warm up? My 2.3 is warm after about a mile in the summer time heat.

Clean up your maf and do your standard up keep. This will probably turn into a list of things to check and do. The maf is a good start of that list. And by doing all the basics first it eliminates things like that as a cause how ever slight they may be. Take a look at your coolant if its got a brown tint to it there is rust somewhere in the system and could indicate a problem if your warm up time is slow. Also check the intake tube. I pulled a buddies truck out a a field it sat in for a few months and there was all kinds of crap behind the maf that was causing a lack of air and horrible running conditions.

Also something to do is spray some wd40 on the linkage that's on the intake for your throttle. I had low rpm in my truck because that would stick.

 

[dmassey]

Not sure if this idea has been posted or not since I haven't been on this forum for quit a spell but when I got the 224 SPOUT connector/coil pack code on mine ( and it was doing the same as yours in that the cel would come on and the idle would drop significantly then it would be fine when the cel was off) I replaced the DIC module and every thing was and is still fine. I picked up the module at a junk yard for $35.
Danny

 

[cmattina]

thanks guys.

I will be doing the plugs, belt, fuel filter and MAF tomorrow. The wires were new, not motorcraft though... As for the coolant, it looks as fresh as ever in the rad, but in the overflow it's pretty dirty. I guess I should do a flush just as good measure. how do you guys bleed the air out? I am used to parking on a hill and burping it. I get a lot of whining from the power steering, would that be a power steering pump or fan belt issue?

The truck isn't worth putting too much money and time into as it is pretty rusty underneath, has 280 000 km and doesn't smell too great.

 

[wr250rdr]

To bleed the coolant system fill the rad let it sit and the majority of bubbles will work them selves to the top check it ever 5 minutes or so. Until you no longer notice the level moving. Then bump the motor over a few times, and top it off. As for your power steering just add some fluid and that should quiet it down

 

[--weezl--]

^^ if it doesn't, you need a new pump (if you want it quiet again)


if the rad is clean, i wouldn't bother with it, test it with a hydrometer, then leave it as is...

 

[cmattina]

cleaned the MAF with zero change. I did an oil change the other day too and it is barely touching the add mark with 4.7 litres... anyone else find that issue? My pressure is reading right around the "M" in normal. I just don't want to put too much in. I KNOW i put 4.7 of 10w30 synthetic (i know it's not the right kind... but whatever), so i just find it odd that it isn't around the FULL mark.

I did change it with the front on ramps, though i've never known that to be an issue on changing the oil on every other car i've owned.

 

[wr250rdr]

Well my book always says approximately in front of all the fill quantities so ya you will be ok to fill it to the m.

Have you done plugs wires and such yet?

 

[SRich]

Seriously consider the ICM replacement. My truck (1994 B2300) had a low reading of only about 1/2 actual RPM when I bought it. Also first trace the wiring to see if you have any chafed wires.

 

[cmattina]

Finding a used ICM is hard in my city. not one wreckers has a 2.3 with dual coil.

However, I was driving today and instead of my tach just going from super low to good, it went from super low to bouncing all over the place for a minute then back to low. No actual change in performace... I scanned it again and my MAF code was gone but now I had 223 AND 224.

I am still thinking it may be the ICM.

I checked my MPG highway today on a warm engine and I got 23 MPG...

I put in new plugs today, the ones in there were NGK which I assume are okay on the these engines, but I've always heard ford like autolite because autolite makes motorcraft... ??

 

[--weezl--]

i don't know who makes what and what, but autolite parts can be found in brand new ford vehicles

 

[cmattina]

yeah I hear autolite is for ford and acdelco is GM. Bosch is good for VW and NGK for japanese. Champion for lawn mowers.

I imagine if one of my coils did fail I'd get way worse than 23MPG, wouldn't I get way worse than with a misfire even? It's really hard for me to tell if I am acutally noticing a performance change when the light goes out and tach reads normally, like how much is in my mind, etc.

Regardless, i'm not sure what my next step would be... what kind of problems may I run in taking out the instrument cluster?

At what speed on level service are you guys shifting into 5th? I find I'll need to be at least at 45 mph.

 

[--weezl--]

ford uses some bosch parts too i believe, but don't quote me on that one...

i know i try to go with bosch o2 sensors...