2.7/3.5 EcoBoost to stock 4x4 driveline?

[Lee daMet]

Has anyone put a 2.7 or 3.5 twin turbo in a ranger yet? I am seriously thinking about it. Not sure what would have to be cut out of engine compartment, if anything. I think it would be super cool setup. not sure about how it would bolt up to present driveline. Curious about electronics to make it work also. I’ve got a 94 4.0l with 246,000 on the clock. It’s tired. Was well abused before I got it. I want to make her clean and reliable. Thanks for any advice.

 

[sgtsandman]

Not yet that I'm aware of. There was talk of trying a 2.3 Ecoboost but chatter on that died down.

 

[RonD]

You can look here to see what Rear wheel drive(RWD) vehicles they came in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_EcoBoost_engine

Then see what RWD drive train was available, i.e manual/auto, 2wd or 4x4

No, no 1983-2011 Ranger drive train would match up, although the axles would be useable

Width is the big thing in Rangers on engine swaps
The 302(5.0l) was popular swap because its only 19" wide, and they barely fit

When you go to Double Overhead cams you get up to 30" pretty quick, lol
And then you are having to move the steering and putting exhaust outside the frame, and of course no heater box

 

[Ranger850]

Somebody on here swapped a 2.3 ecoboost into his ranger, bolted right up to his trans. Another guy started the 3.5 ecoboost swap, had to redo his steering. Not sure which trans he was planning to use if he has even got that far, but his motor was from an F150

 

[adsm08]

Stay away from the 2.7. They are cheaply manufactured garbage. The only way I would even consider using one for anything was if it was

A) A later build unit (2019 or up) that had a real oil pan gasket

and

B) Free.


And when I say "stay away" if you are on Earth and that engine is in the Proxima Centauri system ~4.3 light years away, you are still too close.

 

[sheep herder]

Stay away from the 2.7. They are cheaply manufactured garbage. The only way I would even consider using one for anything was if it was

A) A later build unit (2019 or up) that had a real oil pan gasket

and

B) Free.


And when I say "stay away" if you are on Earth and that engine is in the Proxima Centauri system ~4.3 light years away, you are still too close.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Somebody on here swapped a 2.0 ecoboost into his ranger, bolted right up to his trans. Another guy started the 3.5 ecoboost swap, had to redo his steering. Not sure which trans he was planning to use if he has even got that far, but his motor was from an F150

FIFY

2002 Ecoboost swapped Ranger build thread

Intro First off you have to consider what you are starting with. Any ranger that has a 2.3 duratec (2001 1/2+) and is 2wd and 5 speed (mazda m5od-r1 tranny) will be a perfect candidate for this swap. I am not familiar with the auto transmission and same goes for the 4x4. You would have to do...

www.therangerstation.com

3.5L ecoboost or bust

Like the Click bait title suggests, I am trying to put the 3.5L ecoboost into a ranger :D This Project has been in the planning stages for about two years (since 2017), so before I show you where I am at now, I need to tell you about where I have been. It started with me wanting a Factory...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[RonD]

The 2.3l ecoboost used the 2.3l Duratec/Mazda L bolt pattern so a 2002-2011 Ranger 4cyl trans would work, but............they never came in 4WD models

2.7l/3.5l are different

 

[sgtsandman]

Stay away from the 2.7. They are cheaply manufactured garbage. The only way I would even consider using one for anything was if it was

A) A later build unit (2019 or up) that had a real oil pan gasket

and

B) Free.


And when I say "stay away" if you are on Earth and that engine is in the Proxima Centauri system ~4.3 light years away, you are still too close.

So, you don’t like the engine?

 

[don4331]

The 2.3l ecoboost used the 2.3l Duratec/Mazda L bolt pattern so a 2002-2011 Ranger 4cyl trans would work, but............they never came in 4WD models

2.7l/3.5l are different

While the OP doesn't say if his '94 is 4x2 or 4x4, he will need a M5OD-R1 from '02 up Ranger as minimum for a 2.x Ecoboost swap. So, if he had a 4x4, he could pull the appropriate pieces from his existing transmission (output shaft and housing) and build a transmission which would allow him 4x4 with the Ecoboost.

Extra work, yes but all stock Ford parts.

 

[ericbphoto]

So, you don’t like the engine?

He seems to imply that bicycle pedals would be better than that engine.

 

[adsm08]

So, you don’t like the engine?

We aren't seeing major mechanical issues with them yet, but the minor ones I see cropping up, like the leaking non-reusable oil pans, make me wonder very hard about what other cost-saving corners were cut during the design and production phases.

 

[ericbphoto]

Non& reusable oil pan sounds like a bad idea to me. When you think about it, a majority of oil pans never get removed. But if you do have to remove it, why should it be a disposable item? That's just crazy.

 

[RonD]

While the OP doesn't say if his '94 is 4x2 or 4x4, he will need a M5OD-R1 from '02 up Ranger as minimum for a 2.x Ecoboost swap. So, if he had a 4x4, he could pull the appropriate pieces from his existing transmission (output shaft and housing) and build a transmission which would allow him 4x4 with the Ecoboost.

Extra work, yes but all stock Ford parts.

The OP wanted 2.7l or 3.5l engine, so different bellhousing pattern than the 2.3l Duratec or Ecoboost used in Rangers

Yes you can convert an M5R1 from 2wd to 4wd, and visa versa, by swapping tail shafts and tail shaft housings, its not simple but certainly do-able

 

[adsm08]

Non& reusable oil pan sounds like a bad idea to me. When you think about it, a majority of oil pans never get removed. But if you do have to remove it, why should it be a disposable item? That's just crazy.

The issue with the oil pans is that the are sealed with this new TA357 RTV sealer and no gasket (until mid 2018 MY when someone figured out how to get their head out of their ass).

The sealer sticks hard to most things, but requires near surgical cleanliness and incredibly precise surface prep to actually seal anything. If you don't prep the surface correctly you have a plastic pan glued to a metal block with sealer that will leak like a sieve. The oil pans themselves also have to be prepped, which is done at the factory, and they can't have the sealer cleaned off and be re-prepped because they are plastic. This means if you have to remove one it can't be reused.

Also, the TA357 is so sensitive that touching the sealing surface of an unused oil pan with your bare skin ruins the adhesion promoter and the pan is junk.