2 vs 1 pc driveshaft.


Denisefwd93

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Very rusty, but looks just like the picture or is that my picture looks just like the picture that I've seen.

it's 47" at the welds per the tech page,. The U-joints seem loose, only one is snug, there is no play whatsoever. the spline has a very tiny movement which probably means it needs Grease.

Should I get new U joints anyhow? it's not that expensive to drop it off at the Machine Shop

 


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ericbphoto

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I would put new joints in it and clean and lubricate the slip joint. If the boot looks old, replace it also. Then you know you have something that should last a good while.

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Denisefwd93

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That's the funny part! the boot looks perfect, even new.

Yes, I'm going to take it over and have new U-joints & Special Sauce installed.

I don't think the gas tank on my truck has a skid plate, I'll have to take another look. Also wondering does the carrier bearing crossmember have to be removed? I'll go back and read the tech page also.
 

Denisefwd93

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Gotta to love Google photos it even saves photos that I deleted from my phone.

this is from when we changed out the transmission clearly, there is no skid plate on the gas tank so I guess we won't need to trim it per the instructions
 

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Yes, I'm going to take it over and have new U-joints & Special Sauce installed.
I don't recommend requesting the special sauce at any restaurant chain. Just my two cents.
 

Denisefwd93

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Grease is Grease no matter where it comes from but in the world of high-tech formulas and applications maybe it does matter. = Special Sauce!

Maybe I'll start a new thread on this question alone.

Why is there no a crossmember under the transfer case?

it just seems wrong. not that I'm going to be a hardcore rock crawler, but just looking at it from a basic engineering perspective, we have 50 pounds of weight hanging out in mid-air.

Can the carrier bearing crossmember be repurposed under the transfer case?
 

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Having the right grease does matter. Some applications may be more forgiving than others and some greases may be more versatile than others. But if you want things to last a long time, use the right greases and oils.

The support under the rear of the transmission is more than enough support for the transfer case if all the fasteners are installed correctly. If you add another support there, then when the frame of the truck flexes, that support will live differently than the transmission support, which will move differently than the motor mounts. So you end up trying to twist and bend the fasteners holding all those pieces together. Sometimes simple us better.


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Denisefwd93

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Can't argue with that logic I guess it makes sense, yes there is a special Grease made for the ford drive shaft spline clunk.
 

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it just seems wrong. not that I'm going to be a hardcore rock crawler, but just looking at it from a basic engineering perspective, we have 50 pounds of weight hanging out in mid-air.
Not heavy enough to bother. It might weigh 50lbs total but remember a lot of the weight is in line with the trans.

The cast iron NP205 in my truck (130lbs dry) will twist up an aluminum transmission and requires its own support. Even hung behind a cast iron transmission from the factory it was supported.
 

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I have always used teflon grease for the splined areas on the slip joint.
 

Denisefwd93

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Just got a call from the Machine Shop. the driveshaft is ready with new U-joints he tells me that plug in the spline had to be replaced I said "okay what is it" he said he'd show me when I get there.

I looked up a "spline plug" apparently it is at the bottom of the spline maybe so grease and stuff doesn't go down the inside the shaft tube?
 

Denisefwd93

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As I've always said you learn something everyday no matter how old you. I now I know what a plug is on a U-joint yoke.
 

Denisefwd93

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[emoji3]
1/2hr to drop the two piece shaft, 3 hours to take the support bearing bracket off the support bearing crossmember!

We went with a drill I had to keep going down the basement to sharpen bits.

Half a tank of gas and I could smell, it so.... didn't want any sparks probably have leaky hose/s on top of the tank maybe even the filler tube although it usually has some vacuum when I take the filler cap off but, that's another issue.

1/2 hr to put the new old 1 pc shaft up .
(had U joints installed in it about 2 weeks ago )

Took her for a ride! Less clutch chatter much much less it's actually okay!

Smooth in all gears, slight shake around 45 mph, but quickly subsides can now travel at highway speeds, took her up to about 68 mph!

With the old shaft whipping around I couldn't get past 45 miles an hour without the whole truck shaking and my teeth rattling!

Good to drive now! Yeehaw!

Found an "expected" surprise. The right forward leaf spring mount finally broke! I have a new one but that shackle bolt is not going to break loose for anybody even with a two-foot breaker bar! May have the garage do it.

Sumnary;
I'm glad I went with the one piece driveshaft and trashed the 2pc it was worth the trouble and it's really one of the easier modifications. I highly recommend it! Did not even have to remove the crossmember with the back wheels and Springs all the way down there was still a good inch between the shaft and the crossmember. (Without the support bearing bracket)

I love this place and thank you all for the encouragement! you can't believe how hard this is, it's even harder to get my friend to help me anymore.
 

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seems odd.. but did they balance it after they plugged it???
 

Denisefwd93

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seems odd.. but did they balance it after they plugged it???
No, for the cost of a junkyard driveshaft, balanced with new U joints installed I could have bought a new driveshaft lol , so I did not have a balanced.

it seems okay. The plug is pretty small, button like. I don't know what the going rate is but I was quoted $160 for balance. Maybe if the shaft was pristine I would have gone for the cost but this thing is really rusty, I'm just looking to get by.
 


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