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3.0 engine swap; which cam position shaft to use?


danstiverson

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Hello,
I did a 3.0 swap from an unknown vehicle. I think it was an older ranger. Does it matter that I used my 1999 cam sensor shaft in the probably older motor? I'm getting cmp codes. The shaft seems okay but is there a difference between years that match the engine rather than the wiring? How do i know if a sensor is bad? It registers 600 ohms.
 


ericbphoto

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First question. Does it rotate when you turn the engine over?

second question. Does the oil pump pump oil when you turn the engine over.

if both answers are “yes”, then I would think the shaft is ok and it’s just a matter of making sure the sensor is working. But wait for more people to chime in. I wouldn’t consider myself an actual expert on this. Just going by what seems like common sense.
 

RonD

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1995-1998 3.0l used a 3 wire cam sensor and synchronizer
1999 and up(2008) used a 2 wire cam sensor and synchronizer
The upper part of synchronizers are different for each but lower part is the same

Since lower part is the same they are interchangeable as whole units, sensor and synchronizer
So a 2008 3.0l sensor/synchro will fit fine in a 1995 3.0l and mesh with cam gear and run the oil pump

BUT...........the 2 wire and 3 wire sensors are computer specific, one signal is DC(3 wire) other signal is AC(2 wire)
So if the computer is 1999 and up it can only use/understand a 2 wire sensor
There is no "wiring" conversion possible for these 2 different signals
 
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danstiverson

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Thank you erichphoto for your response. Yes, it runs and drives fine. I just have a check engine light and AutoZone tells me it's the cam sensor. However, the cam sensor does have an ohm reading about 600 between the 2 terminals in the sensor plug.



Thank you for your reply RonD. It's good to know the shafts are interchangable. However, the 1999 uses the black installation tool for the tab and as I recall the shaft that came with the engine had the D circle on the shaft for what I understand is the yellow cap tool. Since I used the shaft that came with the truck the sensor and during match. As for whether the cap is bad, I don't know. It's not an open circuit because I do have continuity and it's not shorted either.

Earlier today I found the TDC mark on the crank and removed the shaft for visual inspection. It looked good to me. I used the black tool to reinstall because it matches the tab. I still have a light.

Thank you both for your insight.
Dan
 

RonD

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Basic OBD2 code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/obd-ii_trouble_codes/

Its not all the codes just the basic codes, there are A LOT MORE

In the generic list(any code that starts with P0xxx) there are 5 Cam sensor codes that each mean something slightly different to the computer
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

So there is no "cam sensor code", as in just one
And there are no "replace sensor" codes, good work on testing the cam sensor instead of just replacing it :)
Replacing a sensor that's "mentioned" in a code definition is like "shooting the messenger" sensor is just reporting there is a problem not always that "its" the problem

But need exact code number to start with

There are also these Ford Cam sensor codes
P1174 Cam Sensor Fault
P1175 Cam Control Fault
P1176 Cam Calibration Fault
P1177 Synchronization Fault

While P0xxx are generic and used by ALL car makers, its the Law, the P1xxx codes are car maker specific, in this case/list they are Ford specific

You can get a $15 Bluetooth OBD2 reader(ELM327) that works on any vehicle 1996 and up that uses a free APP on your phone as the display, or a $5 APP
You can read and clear codes and also watch Live Data with engine running, great tool to have in the box
And not Ford specific, all vehicles sold in US/Canada from 1996 and up must use standard OBD2 communications, even in 2023

Reason you want it is so you can do a repair and see if THE SAME code comes back
You could fix the original code but cause a new code in doing the repair
With just the CEL coming on you can't tell, "oh must be the same problem", but might not be, lol
 
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