3.0L P0340 Synchronizer Wont come out

[crowfather]

So I am trying to replace my cam position sensor and the synchronizer since I found a P0340 code. I was initially going to just replace the sensor since its a pain to get back there. However, after reading other's issues and learning that these engines are notorious for bad synchronizers I decided to to do both. I read the article here with the procedure to replace them.

Now that I have the sensor off and the bracket bolt off the synchro, the synchro shaft doesn't want to come free from the block. I have tried penetrating oil, twisting with channel locks, I tried prying with a bar, hammer and chisel; this thing refuses to budge. Am I doing something wrong or is there a tip that anybody has which can help me? Mine is a '96 and the clearance is really bad back there so I can't really get leverage to twist it by hand. When twisting with the channel locks the top of the synchro started to spin rather than the shaft.

Also, the moon shaped part of the synchro that spins is rather mangled. Any reason why that would be? See picture. I took this photo before attempting to remove it so I could mark the position of the moon part.

Thanks.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm no help here...

But @pjtoledo might have some knowledge to offer.

 

[RonD]

There is nothing holding the synchronizer in after the retaining bolt is removed
The fact that the housing spins is good
The shaft shouldn't turn unless you turn the engine by hand, I would do just that
Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn the crank back and forth a few times, just a few degrees

On the shaft is a gear that is meshed with a gear on the cam, but that shouldn't hold it
What's holding it in place is most likely the oil pump drive shaft, turning the crank back and forth may loosen it allowing you to pull the housing up and out

Look at your new synchro unit, at the bottom is the hole the oil pump drive slides into

The oil pump drive shaft has a "keeper" ring on it, above the oil pump, that prevents it from being pulled up an out with the synchronizer

 

[pjtoledo]

" the synchro shaft doesn't want to come free from the block. I "

I hope you're pulling on the entire housing, the shaft will not come out by itself. I think you are, the wording is a bit misleading.

if the housing spins, keep working it back and forth to break the corrosion bond, add oil or penetrating at the base.

 

[crowfather]

Thanks. I will try turning the crank. To clarify the housing isn't spinning in the block hole, the top piece that encircles the half moon is spinning on the rest of the housing.

 

[pjtoledo]

this is what you need to do, remove the housing.
the bolt hole is crooked from the factory. it contacts the clamp better that way.
the innerds will come out with the housing.
ignore the custom low tension valve springs.

 

[crowfather]

Thanks for the photo. I had already removed the clamp at the point of my original post. My housing is stuck in the hole. I haven't gotten a chance to try again until today. I am turning the crank to see if it releases.

 

[crowfather]

Turning the crank didn't seem to loosen it up at all. I event set it to what I think TDC/10 deg ATDC is. I have marks on the balancer but I have no mark to line them up with (or at least i don't see a mark to line them up with).

 

[pjtoledo]

turning the crankshaft will only turn the inside of the sync unit, it is powered from the cam.
you need to turn the outer housing. it's probably rusted/oxidized in place where the housing meets the block.

 

[crowfather]

Yeah, that's my assumption. I have been hitting it with penetrant and a hammer every 30 minutes today but it wont budge. I gave up on trying to mark how it was position before i messed with it, given the state of the indicator on top (see my photo) I think the last owner also tried this.

That is why TDC is now important, for the reinstall. Where do I need to match the balancer marks up with? Is it on the side near the crank sensor?

 

[pjtoledo]

should be etched on the balancer. my parts are not accessible for pics right now. past experience says you may have to clean the balancer with sandpaper to see the marks.
you can get it close by removing the # 1 spark plug (pass front) and sticking a long thin screwdriver in the hole and turning the crank. BY HAND !!!
when the piston is very close to top it will hit the screwdriver, then look at the balancer for marks. put a visible mark there.
this will be TDC, but doesn't differentiate between compression or exhaust stroke.
so the sync unit will be either correct or 180 degrees off.

to get compression stroke, put your finger in the plug hole and turn the crank.
when pressure pushes your finger out that's the compression stroke.
the proper TDC will immediately follow the finger pressure.

exhaust & intake strokes have a valve open, no pressure. power stroke will suck in.

 

[crowfather]

I can clearly see the etchings on the balancer, I just don't know what they are supposed to line up with. Are they supposed to point straight down to the ground?

Edit: I have a compression gauge so I know that I am on the compression stroke. I just don't know where the markings reference.

 

[crowfather]

I finally got the thing out. After several hours of penetrant, channel locks, wait, repeat, I was able to remove the old one. Not in terrible shape, a bit more play than the replacement. It has a motorcraft part number on it, so either its original or was replaced with motorcraft the last time.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Way to stick with it...

 

[pjtoledo]

the marks definitely don't point straight down. I haven't found my balancer yet, and the manuals just say line up the dots on the timing chain.
the dot on the crank is directly above the keyway. so at TDC the keyway is pointed straight up, but it's covered by the bolt.
I want to say that pyramid is for TDC but I can't verify it. I seem to remember something about that missing tooth but it's been a few years. sorry.