3.0L P0340 Synchronizer Wont come out

[pjtoledo]

OK, from the 2005 factory manual, page 303-14-4

"rotate the crankshaft until the No.1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke and the TDC mark lines up with the timing mark"

set it at the pyramid and see if the screwdriver hits the piston top.

 

[crowfather]

I found the little pyramid thing that is to the right of the crank sensor. I lined that up with the first tooth after 0 TDC per the install instructions. New one went in with some wiggling, but otherwise not much trouble. She had been sitting for a bit so she needed a jump. Other than that fired right up. I guess battery was low enough to clear codes since none are there now. Any sensor data I can monitor to confirm the fix?

 

[mikkelstuff]

My experience:

 

[crowfather]

It wasn't a test drive or anything but an hour of idling in the driveway and no codes popped. I'll drive around the neighborhood this week and call it good.

 

[pjtoledo]

7/32" is equivalent to 5.5mm, there is only .002" difference. 5.5 is smaller.

 

[crowfather]

So I now have a new symptom. It is a ticking noise that starts at about 1800 RPM, accompanied by a slight loss in power. Giving her more throttle at that point the power comes back but the ticking continues. No codes. Any ideas? This tick wasn't there before doing the work.

 

[pjtoledo]

just to make sure everything is still where you left it.
cap still on?
sync unit rotated?

does it do it while revving in neutral?

 

[crowfather]

Everything looks ok as far as reassembly goes.

Revving in neutral yes. Some slight smoke coming from EGR tube where it meets the valve. I think its just the heat getting to the antiseize though.

 

[pjtoledo]

time for a stethoscope, or piece of tubing. (check for bugs first)
move the tube around, hopefully you can narrow the sounds location.
take the oil filler cap off too.

 

[crowfather]

I got a stethoscope after work today. It points me to the vapor canister purge valve solenoid. I can hear it through the stethoscope, and I can feel it with my finger as it clicks.

This is odd to me since I just replaced the valve/solenoid along with the connector/wiring, while I was cussing out the synchro. It only clicks, seemingly open and closed, between ~1800 and 2200 rpm. Lower and higher it is quiet. It might get slightly quicker with higher throttle but not by much. What could occur during these engine speeds to cause this? Perhaps just a bad solenoid out of the box?

Drive around the neighborhood was fine, only got up to 40 and for short bursts. Didn't feel a power loss or anything. The tick is clear inside the cab so that will get rather annoying even if this is "ok".