84 durasparked wont start

[nightmare_82282]

I bought this 2.8l 5 speed b2 over a year ago. It ran with the stock computer crap on in. But it ran wierd. It would start right up at a low rpm. After warming up it would die. Even if you were driving it. So I said screw this and did the Duraspark. I did everything that was on the wright up (I printed it out and went shopping). Everything is new. Dizzy, cap, rotor, druabox, coil, plugs, wires, battery and all vaccume lines were pluged. Egr was plugged and everything was check and checked again. It will crank over and thats it. I put a new fuel pump on a few days back and still it wont start. It wont pop, sputter, stumble or even try to fire. It just cranks over. I checked the spark and its yellow (due to cranking the engine so much the battery is low). I got fuel threw the 2bbl Holley that was ran on my 2.3l mustang for a few months. I got air, fuel and sprak. I could have the dizzy 180 off but it should atleast back fire out of the crab. I had a friend look at it and he can figure it out. He rebuilds 302 for racing. I put a new stearing culom in and it wont crank from the key at all so I am using a remote starter. I even got a long stick to hold the clutch. hahaha. I am willing to try just about anything at this point as long as I dont have to spend money

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Get the spark right first.pull # 1 plug and stick your finger in the hole and click the starter until you feel compression coming out then line the timing mark the pointer up to TDC the thick line. check that your rotor is pointing at around 11 oclock. If you still have the stock coil just use it. put the spark plug in the ciol wire off the dizzy and set it on a good ground turn the key on and jumper the neg coil wire to ground the plug should fire brite blue. If not get that to happen before you go any further anything else is a waste of time. Once the coil is good then just crank on it you should get a steady brite blue spark off of the coil wire again. If not fix the dizzy and module wiring for the 84 just use the first color wiring diagram in the tech library. The two wire connector just plugs right in the colors are reversed but it is correct. The green wire out the module goes to neg on the coil key on hot to pos and the black goes to ground on the dizzy the other two can be reversed it is just the pickup. Once you get a steady spark from the coil wire you can preset the timing, mark 10 degrees BTDC on the crank pully. set up your light on #1 plug wire and crank on it while watching the timing mark. Get as close to 10 degrees as you can if it dont start your having fuel issues. how is the carb bolted to the intake manifold do you have a spacer between them. If not carb spacer # 60529 felpro wil fix any vacuum leaks there but just by pouring some gas down the carb it should run for a bit. Fully charge the battery or get a new one before doing anything. If you dont want to use the stock coil you will need one that runs on battery voltage or you will need both a resistor and a diode to get it to start and run properly. GL

 

[nightmare_82282]

Get the spark right first.pull # 1 plug and stick your finger in the hole and click the starter until you feel compression coming out then line the timing mark the pointer up to TDC the thick line. check that your rotor is pointing at around 11 oclock. If you still have the stock coil just use it. put the spark plug in the ciol wire off the dizzy and set it on a good ground turn the key on and jumper the neg coil wire to ground the plug should fire brite blue. If not get that to happen before you go any further anything else is a waste of time. Once the coil is good then just crank on it you should get a steady brite blue spark off of the coil wire again. If not fix the dizzy and module wiring for the 84 just use the first color wiring diagram in the tech library. The two wire connector just plugs right in the colors are reversed but it is correct. The green wire out the module goes to neg on the coil key on hot to pos and the black goes to ground on the dizzy the other two can be reversed it is just the pickup. Once you get a steady spark from the coil wire you can preset the timing, mark 10 degrees BTDC on the crank pully. set up your light on #1 plug wire and crank on it while watching the timing mark. Get as close to 10 degrees as you can if it dont start your having fuel issues. how is the carb bolted to the intake manifold do you have a spacer between them. If not carb spacer # 60529 felpro wil fix any vacuum leaks there but just by pouring some gas down the carb it should run for a bit. Fully charge the battery or get a new one before doing anything. If you dont want to use the stock coil you will need one that runs on battery voltage or you will need both a resistor and a diode to get it to start and run properly. GL

I got the wiring all right, The green wire for the coil seams to get warm. I had an Accel super stock coil but it kept getting hot to the touch. I changed it out for the Duralast Ignition Coil part number C832 from Autozone. The coil doesnt get hot any more but the green wire still gets a little warm. I think for the carb I use the factory black spacer thing with a new gasket for the Holley carb. I will have to check my timing some time this week. I put an ink pin in the #1 hole and cranked in by hand till it was TDC. I didnt check if it was combustion stroke or not. At that time I didnt have a battery. I checked the spark from the coil and it is weak yellow spark. It has 12v going into it. But like I said the green wire from the coil to the durabox gets warm. Maybe the duraspark box its self is flawed?

 

[nightmare_82282]

I just had a thought. My dads tuck was having this same issue a while back. Turns out it had bad fuel and bad spark plugs. Im gonna have to stop at the gas station on the way back to the house and get some fresh gas. The b2 been sitting over a year. I have one of thoes see threw feul filters and it looks brown-ish. Low charge battery and old gas could be my problem (Im hopping). Leave it to my dad to point out something that should be a no brainer. Even if he still thinks im turning 21 this year. Thats 8 years in a row woohoo. So I will check the timimg and put that gasket on and try putting some fresh fuel in the carb to see if anything happends.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The green wire from the module is the trigger wire for the coil same as a set of points it provides a ground to release the voltage stored in the coil it should not get hot. The stock TFI (square) coil that was on the truck is all you need and will knock you on your butt if not careful. If you still have it hook it up and see how it does no sense of burning up expensive coils until you figure it out. You will still get compression if you use a wrench to turn the crank just stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank until you feel compression and line up the timing marks that way you are sure your on TDC on #1 cyl. It will usually take a couple times getting the dizzy to where the rotor is at 11 oclock because of the oil pump but you can judge where it wil fall down correct turn the crank so the dizzy goes all the way down and check it again until you get it right. Check that your ground is good from the dizzy to the black wire on the module.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I am not sure on the carb spacer wether it is necessary it costs around $20 but yea a weak battery and bad fuel could definately be a factor. Eliminate the variables disconnect the fuel line to the carb and put it in a glass jar and fill it about half full of fuel you will see water in the bottom if water is an issue otherwise adding fresh fuel will help. Once you get it running run the tank dry then change the fuel filter.

 

[nightmare_82282]

The green wire from the module is the trigger wire for the coil same as a set of points it provides a ground to release the voltage stored in the coil it should not get hot. The stock TFI (square) coil that was on the truck is all you need and will knock you on your butt if not careful. If you still have it hook it up and see how it does no sense of burning up expensive coils until you figure it out. You will still get compression if you use a wrench to turn the crank just stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank until you feel compression and line up the timing marks that way you are sure your on TDC on #1 cyl. It will usually take a couple times getting the dizzy to where the rotor is at 11 oclock because of the oil pump but you can judge where it wil fall down correct turn the crank so the dizzy goes all the way down and check it again until you get it right. Check that your ground is good from the dizzy to the black wire on the module.

The stock coil went on my friends 85 ranger (than he sold it). I will check for compression when the sun comes up. Im working now. I will check every ground in the sob as well.