88 2WD Alignment Problems Help!

[Diggerauditor]

Last summer I swapped out my stock springs for some 150 springs for some added ground clearance. I then had a pos camber issue. I did a V8 swap and a Pro Comp 4" lift on it. I just installed a drop Pitman arm and bought the fully adjustable camber bushings, #594, to correct the severe neg camber issue, per the tech at Pro Comp. I took them down to the shop to get them installed to at least make it drivable. They couldn't get them out so they had to remove the whole spindle and pop them out that way. They then called me and told me that they were too big in diameter to go in, about 1/16". I called Pro Comp to complain and they said that those are the only ones that they have ever made and used for their lift kits. Has anyone else had this problem. MB the old diameter is rusty and needs to be honed out? Any help would be appreciated...

Do you need to remove the whole spindle to pop these out. I tried to get them out before and couldn't. How do I remove the spindle, if necessary. Tried beating on it but it just wouldn't pop off the ball joint.

 

[zekew64]

Last summer I swapped out my stock springs for some 150 springs for some added ground clearance. I then had a pos camber issue. I did a V8 swap and a Pro Comp 4" lift on it. I just installed a drop Pitman arm and bought the fully adjustable camber bushings, #594, to correct the severe neg camber issue, per the tech at Pro Comp. I took them down to the shop to get them installed to at least make it drivable. They couldn't get them out so they had to remove the whole spindle and pop them out that way. They then called me and told me that they were too big in diameter to go in, about 1/16". I called Pro Comp to complain and they said that those are the only ones that they have ever made and used for their lift kits. Has anyone else had this problem. MB the old diameter is rusty and needs to be honed out? Any help would be appreciated...

Do you need to remove the whole spindle to pop these out. I tried to get them out before and couldn't. How do I remove the spindle, if necessary. Tried beating on it but it just wouldn't pop off the ball joint.

What you'll probably end up having to do is remove the entire spindle. What I don't know is if you have leafs in the front, or coils in the front for springs. If you have the coils for springs, then all you have to do is remove the tie-rod ends from the knuckles first, then remove the bottom of your shocks (makes it easier to manipulate the I-beam), then take off and remove the spring retainer nut. Once that's done, you should be able to take off the spindle by popping off the spindle from the ball joints.

Also, it's easier to do if you have a couple cans of Freeze-Loc; this literally is liquid nitrogen in a can. Follow the directions, wait 2 minutes, and everything should seperate. After getting off the spindle, I'd put replacement ball joints on that fit the camber bushings; a hone to the bushing location wouldn't hurt either, just take it easy on the hone when you do it. Only advice on that is, don't do anything to alter the location where the bolt goes in--you don't want to have problems getting the bolt back in.

Lastly, to press out the old ball joints and bushings, you'll need a ball joint press, which can run about $100 or so from an auto parts store (rental price).

 

[Rothskeli]

What you'll probably end up having to do is remove the entire spindle. What I don't know is if you have leafs in the front, or coils in the front for springs. If you have the coils for springs, then all you have to do is remove the tie-rod ends from the knuckles first, then remove the bottom of your shocks (makes it easier to manipulate the I-beam), then take off and remove the spring retainer nut. Once that's done, you should be able to take off the spindle by popping off the spindle from the ball joints.

Also, it's easier to do if you have a couple cans of Freeze-Loc; this literally is liquid nitrogen in a can. Follow the directions, wait 2 minutes, and everything should seperate. After getting off the spindle, I'd put car accessories replacement ball joints on that fit the camber bushings; a hone to the bushing location wouldn't hurt either, just take it easy on the hone when you do it. Only advice on that is, don't do anything to alter the location where the bolt goes in--you don't want to have problems getting the bolt back in.

Lastly, to press out the old ball joints and bushings, you'll need a ball joint press, which can run about $100 or so from an auto parts store (rental price).

Hello is there not any other solution. I don't want to spend $100.

 

[Tedybear]

He quoted the 'rental' price. Most auto parts stores have 'loaner' tool sets available for unique repairs. You pay up front for the cost of the tool (in case you love it so much you want to keep it)...Or you just return the tool in the same condition you 'purchased' it for, and get a full refund. I've done this dance several times when it comes to odd tools that I wouldn't purchase, as they get used maybe twice and then collecting dust later.

S-