88 Bronco II Won’t Start

[Mhfco6]

I’ve got spark so figured I start a new thread. I replaced the coil and I’m getting much stronger spark now. I can get a very small hope that it will start then never commits. I can’t find a compression tester with a small enough hose clamp that will slide through the block to meet the plug threads. Still have good fuel pressure (36 psi) and it won’t start with starting fluid. I’ve pulled ECM and it looks mint inside. Anyone see any issues in the pic? I’m going to flip the rotor 180 degrees one more time for giggles. If that doesn’t work I’m not sure where else to look.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The only thing left is...

Firing order
Ignition timing
Compression

Did you try turning the distributor while cranking to change ignition timing?

 

[RobbieD]

It's hard to see in your pic, but if that's a cap that I've circled, it looks like it may have a popped top, and also looks like there's some staining at its base on the PCB.

Or, it's just the fuzziness and reflections of the pic.

 

[Bgunner]

If it is not firing on starting fluid but you have spark then the first place to start is firing order. If for some reason the wires are not in the correct place the spark will be at the wrong cylinder at the wrong time. Bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke and ensure that the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. This will give you a starting point to get your firing order correct.

IF the firing order is correct then move on to timing. As Uncle Gump mentioned try adjusting the distributor to see if it fires. The engine must be running to fine tune the timing but twisting the distributor will help get you close enough for the engine to start.

If the engine still will not fire with starting fluid, Rent a compression tester and test all cylinders.

I agree with RobbieD that the one cap looks a little suspect but the glare from the flash makes it hard to see. Could you take a few pictures of the one capacitor from different angles so we may have a better look at it?

 

[Mhfco6]

I’ve attempted to set base timing multiple times. Bring #1 to TDC on compression stroke. Pointed rotor at #1 cylinder plug wire on dizzy and firing order is shown in pic attached. I’ve also tried turning the distributor a few times .

I bought a compression tester and rented one. Both had a larger hose coupling bigger than the threads and I couldn’t get the threads started.

 

[RobbieD]

That's not a capacitor, and I don't see anything that looks suspect in the engine control module.

 

[Mhfco6]

Alright finally got a compression setup to work on all 6 cylinders. It wants to start so bad, fast cranking then putting and puffing but doesn’t make it.


Cylinder #1 - 138 psi
Cylinder #2 - 145 psi
Cylinder #3 - 150 psi
Cylinder#4 - 125 psi
Cylinder#5 - 140psi
Cylinder #6 - 160 psi

 

[RonD]

Cylinder #4 is suspect but engine should start based on the other 5

Unplug the SPOUT Connector, that takes the engine computer out of the spark system

Add fuel manually
If it doesn't startup then its a spark issue for sure, unless you have water in the gas tank, lol
OR a potato up the tailpipe(blocked exhaust will cause a no start)

Extreme longshot
The rotor on distributor is turning correct?
The distributor shaft gear is attached by a roll pin to the shaft, and it can shear off
So barely turns and not in time, and you wouldn't want it to start in any case because there would be no oil pump

 

[Mhfco6]

Cylinder #4 is suspect but engine should start based on the other 5

Unplug the SPOUT Connector, that takes the engine computer out of the spark system

Add fuel manually
If it doesn't startup then its a spark issue for sure, unless you have water in the gas tank, lol
OR a potato up the tailpipe(blocked exhaust will cause a no start)

Extreme longshot
The rotor on distributor is turning correct?
The distributor shaft gear is attached by a roll pin to the shaft, and it can shear off
So barely turns and not in time, and you wouldn't want it to start in any case because there would be no oil pump

Spout unplugged and raw gas squirted in TB did the trick!! Oh and I changed out the dizzy cap & rotor for “fun”. While cap was off I made sure the rotor was spin in’ for ya. She running now but needs some new belts, they smokin’.

 

[franklin2]

Make sure you adjust the timing with the spout unplugged. Should be set a 10 BTDC. Then you can plug it back in. I bet the timing is a little off, the reason it wanted to run but just would not quite go.

 

[Mhfco6]

Make sure you adjust the timing with the spout unplugged. Should be set a 10 BTDC. Then you can plug it back in. I bet the timing is a little off, the reason it wanted to run but just would not quite go.

Yup, y’all helped me out with all that back on the 87 F150. Had to get it running to fine tune it. I’ve already marked all the points on the pulley. I appreciate everyone’s help as always. This forum has some great guys.

 

[Mhfco6]

Found it to be the water pump locked up.

 

[Mhfco6]

New water pump and thermostat.

 

[Mhfco6]

I bled brakes they are working now, serviced trans and changed engine oil again. I’m overheating and boiling over at the overflow tank. I used a funnel and let coolant raise up until thermostat opened. Then the coolant went down in the radiator and filled until full once cold. Both heater core and upper/lower radiator hoses are hot. Think it’s just an air bubble?
It boils over from overflow. If I turn the heat in it’s hot air and then you can hear the boiling from heater core.

 

[RonD]

Pull either heater hose off at the firewall
Top up cold rad, until water/coolant runs out of open heater core port and its hose, put hose back on
All air is now out of the cooling system, for sure

Make sure the overflow tank has some fluid in it
Pull off overflow hose on rad cap opening and blow thru it, should bubble up in overflow tank, that means hose is clear, also look for any leaks in hose.
Put hose back on it's port
Put rad cap on

Start engine
This system is self purging of air

With engine idling for 2 or 3 minutes NO AIR should bubble up in the overflow tank
If it does start to bubble that IS NOT boiling, its a head gasket leak pumping "air"(exhaust) into the cooling system, which increases pressure in the cooling system above the 14psi cap rating so it opens and is pushing that "air" out into overflow hose and tank

This "air" also gets stuck in the head which causes the overheating after a few more minutes