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89' Ranger 2.9L V6 Help Please


RobbieD

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She did not run this poorly before that shadetree mechanic got ahold of her.
I think that it'd be a good idea, at this point, to check ALL of the ground cables and wires, from the battery negative post to the engine, frame and body. And also check the ground cable or strap between the engine and cab. At least rule this, a bad grounding path, out of the equation.

In your post #1 photo, that looks like a disconnected ground strap. A lot of "mechanics" remove stuff (like dip sticks), and don't put things back. A lot of your symptoms could be due a bad, or unstable, grounding path. Even the starter (as in a new one drawing less amperage).

Congrats on scoring the dipstick, and don't give up. Things like this are usually something simple, but it's just the aggravating matter of finding the needle in the haystack.

Good Luck!
 


Shran

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Guessing that by "about to explode" you mean the excessively high idle?

There is a fairly good chance that it is caused by a vacuum leak or leaks. Or the IAC... or adjustments made to the throttle body screw... once people start messing with things it's a terrible rabbit hole to go down.

It might be helpful to find a reputable mechanic to help you out. I don't want to discourage you from fixing it yourself but it may save you a lot of time & money. I threw a lot of parts at things and fixed nothing back when I was younger and just getting started into wrenching.
 

awec

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I think that it'd be a good idea, at this point, to check ALL of the ground cables and wires, from the battery negative post to the engine, frame and body. And also check the ground cable or strap between the engine and cab. At least rule this, a bad grounding path, out of the equation.

In your post #1 photo, that looks like a disconnected ground strap. A lot of "mechanics" remove stuff (like dip sticks), and don't put things back. A lot of your symptoms could be due a bad, or unstable, grounding path. Even the starter (as in a new one drawing less amperage).

Congrats on scoring the dipstick, and don't give up. Things like this are usually something simple, but it's just the aggravating matter of finding the needle in the haystack.

Good Luck!
This is very helpful, thank you. I will attack this when it stops raining. I appreciate the kind words of encouragement! It certainly had me down in the dumps yesterday. I have big hopes for this truck, and I certainly don't plan on giving up on it, but it has already proved much more difficult than I had anticipated.
 

awec

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Guessing that by "about to explode" you mean the excessively high idle?

There is a fairly good chance that it is caused by a vacuum leak or leaks. Or the IAC... or adjustments made to the throttle body screw... once people start messing with things it's a terrible rabbit hole to go down.

It might be helpful to find a reputable mechanic to help you out. I don't want to discourage you from fixing it yourself but it may save you a lot of time & money. I threw a lot of parts at things and fixed nothing back when I was younger and just getting started into wrenching.
Yes, in the video I come over the tach, and it idles in between 1500-2000 rpm. I may have been a bit hyperbolic; but she runs like she is not happy about being alive, lol. I think you're right, I intend on taking her somewhere for a more professional diagnosis. My buddy took a look at her a few weeks ago and recommended everything that I have started with, albeit I have acquired replacement plugs + wires I have not done that work yet. Aside from that, Just getting onto the right path with a professional mechanic would go a long way.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Yes, in the video I come over the tach, and it idles in between 1500-2000 rpm. I may have been a bit hyperbolic; but she runs like she is not happy about being alive, lol. I think you're right, I intend on taking her somewhere for a more professional diagnosis. My buddy took a look at her a few weeks ago and recommended everything that I have started with, albeit I have acquired replacement plugs + wires I have not done that work yet. Aside from that, Just getting onto the right path with a professional mechanic would go a long way.
First thing id do is get yourself an EEC IV code reader. Google "innova eec iv"...the reader is like 30 bucks...itll spit out code numbers you can reference in the provided book or online. That will be cheaper then a mechanic and atleast give you some direction of where to start.

The idle isnt only high...but also surgeing. Try unplugging the IAC (idle air control) and see if the idle changes at all. If it dont thats probably the issue. If it drops down...youre chasing a vacuum leak.
 

awec

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First thing id do is get yourself an EEC IV code reader. Google "innova eec iv"...the reader is like 30 bucks...itll spit out code numbers you can reference in the provided book or online. That will be cheaper then a mechanic and atleast give you some direction of where to start.

The idle isnt only high...but also surgeing. Try unplugging the IAC (idle air control) and see if the idle changes at all. If it dont thats probably the issue. If it drops down...youre chasing a vacuum leak.
This is awesome advice. Thank you rusty ol ranger. Will go ahead and order that code reader, get ready to attack all of this next weekend.
I appreciate all the help, guys!
 

awec

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Well team, I have done it. I have successfully fucked my transmission. Despite following the video to a T, while doing the transmission filter that is, my Ranger no longer wants to engage with any of the gears on column shifter.

May it be Reverse, overdrive, drive, 2 or 1, she doesn't like it at all. I disconnected the battery, let it rest about 10 minutes, reconnected, and it finally engaged into reverse and drive.

But even still, throttle input was little to none. I got it circled around the cul de sac and back into the drive after the truck disengaging with the gears it had previously engaged with, and swapping from 2 to 1 to get it parked again, not blocking my driveway.

Mind you I never put it into gear or pressed on the gas without confirming transmission fluid was in cross hatched area on dipstick.
 

RobbieD

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Mind you I never put it into gear or pressed on the gas without confirming transmission fluid was in cross hatched area on dipstick.
You checked the ATF level with engine running or off?
 

rusty ol ranger

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Shran

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Are you sure you have enough fluid in it? Sounds to me like you have nothing to lose by adding about half a quart at a time, shifting though the gears while at a stop, see if it comes back to life. If it was working prior to the filter change, low fluid condition is my first guess.
 

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