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90 ranger -94 explorer swap


thisfords4u

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Ok Ive read all the articles in the tech section, and 17 pages into this section in preperation for my swap. I have a 90 ranger 2.9 and have a 94 explorer 4.0 and Im a little confused. I understand engine and computer w/underhood wiring, but Some of the info says to use the wiring and dash complete out of the ex, and others say just the under hood harness. I know there will be splicing involved, but the least amount of wiring/work the better. None of it scares me, I actually enjoy wiring, just dont want to do unnecessary work. Any help as always is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 


kryptonitecb

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I imagine it depends on how you want to do it. If you use the wiring from the donor you will have to rerun every wire. Or you just find the power wire going to the cab and give it power. I haven't done this before but I would guess you still would have to run the wiring to the dash instruments also.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 

Protowrxs

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First I would really recommend buying the Ford or equal EVTM (Electrical, Vacuum, Trouble Shooting) manuals for each year you are dealing with for a reference. MUCH much easier to understand it all. You'll see the similarities and differences from the diagrams and can track back the wiring colors and connectors that are related or have to be re-wired/spliced or re-pinned.

From my research on my 93 Explorer 4.0 (92 Computer Harness) into an 89 2.9L Ranger I believe it's easier to split the computer control harness off the Explorer headlight harness and simply splice in the power and minimal wiring needed to connect to the headlight harness. These include things like Start/Run power, Oil and Temp sending units, tach, clutch switch, etc.

If you have a full Explorer donor and don't might pulling all the wiring out and transplanting I guess that may be more plug and play but seems like a lot of work. I don't have the interior dash harness option and didn't want to figure out how to re-pin the big white plug so I am going the pull it apart method.

I ended up building a cross reference sheet that shows how the re-wiring needs to occur. You'll have more things to deal with on a 94 I guess like the Cam Position Sensor and EGR but it's pretty evident in the diagrams.

I am guessing the 94 is still EEC-IV and not EEC-V like the Mustangs were?

Of course I haven't actually did the swap yet so my input may be adjusted accordingly during the swap next month.. lol

If nothing else it should be a fun challenge.

-Stephen
 

Roger

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Did this swap happen? I'm prepping to swap a 94 Explorer 4.0 into my 90 Ranger 2.3 and reading everything I can before starting in a week or so.
 

thisfords4u

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I've swapped everything over, dash and all even the steering column as the ex had cruise and tilt and the truck didnt, plus the wiring was easier that way. My problem now is the two plugs going down the frame rail are a little different possition and color wise, so Im having fun. I started with just wiring diagrams thinking I could get through it. And maybe I could. But Im only getting an hour here and there to work on it, so I cant really wrap my mind around it. So now Im buying the evtm's for both rigs like everyone suggested in the first place. And just so you know, on mine at least, the light wires on the ex went down the inside rocker under the carpet to the back and the trucks go down the frame rail so you'll have to poke those through the fire wall.
 

Roger

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And THAT is the only thing wiring-wise I was getting concerned about. We're doing the whole Explorer dash and steering column swap as well into our Ranger. Got any pics? How about issues with driveshafts, I BELIEVE we can re-use the better of the two front driveshafts, but the rear Ranger shaft might be the only one I can use as the Explorer shaft is quite a bit longer. Our Ranger is a short bed regular cab, 5 speed and 1354 electric case...
 

thisfords4u

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It lives

Well after spending a couple nights (about an hour each) looking at the 2 evtms and figuring out my two connectors, putting in a new fuel pump/sending unit and filter, replaced the small wire to the starter, low and behold it fired right up. It set a soft code right away, probably cause I dont have the MAF hooked up. Now to finish the wiring, install the fire wall side heater crap, exhaust, remount the bed, remove the carpet and pressure wash it clean the seats, and detail the rest. oh and register it.
 

Roger

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Any pics? I'm considering bringing the Ranger taillight harness into the rear of the cab to match up with the Ex harness. And figuring out how to deal with the relays with the driver's side trailer harness. We have the Ranger stripped, and the interior of the Ex is stripped. We started removing stuff underhood of the Ex last night and might be ready to pull the motor tomorrow. It will be nice if we have start up on the first try as well. That is why we are taking our time...
 

thisfords4u

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well heres a few pics. nothing of the actual work in progress, but that was basic stuff anyhow. it still needs a major bath. poor thing hasnt ran in ten yrs, so Ill be going through everything on it. let me know if you need any help.
 

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thisfords4u

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also I wouldnt run the light wires out the back of the cab/floor, that'll just look hokey. if your not using the cruise control then use its hole in the fire wall. my truck didnt have cruise originaly so the wiring hole has a grommet in it, you can use that. Otherwise drill an appropriate size hole and buy a wiring grommet, it'll be much cleaner and look more original. the later is what I'm going to do.
 

Roger

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I haven't cut either harness yet, looks like the easiest is the fuel pump, fuel sender harness. Similar colors at least. I need to look but will likely pull the lighting from the underhood harness. Not fun, disecting that harness, but might be best regardless.

I'll save the interior harness for another day, but it will need the rear door stuff cut from it and shortened overall. Maybe even shortened and run behind the dash. This might be best...

We're almost done with the Ex.
 

Roger

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Yep, getting the brake and turn signals out is an issue, but I guess drilling a hole and stuffing the wiring through a grommet is the best way to go. We are using the cruise control, so that opening isn't an option. Just sent you a PM, but made up my mind after sending it. Now, the big question is, what did you do with the rest of the interior harness? I'm chopping a metric ton of stuff out, which will displace some of the factory splices. I am doing this slowly and with a meter so I don't have issues later. I just don't want 10 extra feet of wire hanging about the cab.
 

Roger

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Just want to say Thanks man... Re-read your thread last night and it made a ton more sense since I had already got my thinking straightened out... Read my update to the thread I started asking questions.
 

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