when its a 351 modified 400 big block it doesnt share the same bellhousing thanks though.
and on the carb vs efi thing to each his own i like the carb set up better when you do your v8 swap you can use what you want.
im not putting efi on the 351 so yall can get off that now. idc what your opinion is on efi and carb. its a perfect running 351 with a CARB! Im leavin it that way.
Its a 351 MODIFIED.
to be quite honest with you, if you want to get much help from this site, you best be dropping the attitude... acting like a smart mouth doesn't impress anyone on here... people are making polite suggestions to you, and you go mouthing off? not a good idea... the carb, i'll agree with everyone else, for 4x4ing, they are not the best, even trying to climb out of a mud hole or climb over a rock can run them dry... and i say this as someone who loves carbs... if i build a motor for anything but a 4x4, it's carbed...
as for the 20's again, not a good idea, but i will explain why, i assume you don't know, as i didn't know any of this when i was 19...
your footprint is the biggest thing for traction, the more surface area on something, the better your traction is, you can increase your footprint on your vehicle by adding wider tires, taller adds a little bit, but not as much as you would expect... lowering your tire pressure makes a big difference, as it bulges out on the side... when i drive to my OHV area, i run 35 in my truck, then drop down to 15 to wheel, never had ANY issues, next time i go, depending on the terrain, i may drop to 10...
you may think that footprint doesn't matter much when you are mudding, but the truth is, it matters more, because any texture that is at the bottom of your mud hole is going to be ripped off with wheel spin, if the pressure is low, the tire molds around the texture, if there is a small rock, it will mold around that too... which increases traction on all of your tires... if you try to get unstuck with a locked front and rear vehicle, with a 4x4 t-case and you only have one wheel with any traction, you are going to put a lot of stress on your t-case and diff, which could be why yours blew up (not saying it IS the reason) anyways, lowering pressure helps drastically...
NOW why for smaller rims, narrower ads more natural pressure against the bead, which will decrease the chance of popping a bead off, of course, but shorter rims will add more tire sidewall, which allows for more cussion for the said textures to be absorbed... if you run even 20 psi in some of those low profile tires, or even semi low profile tires you see on ricers, and run over a baseball sized rock or even a golfball sized rock near where the bead sits, the point of pressure will deflate around the rock, but because there isn't enough sidewall to take up the size of the obstacle, the object will hit the rim, and bend it, depending on how hard you hit it... now again, with mudding, there are VERY often big sharp rocks under the mud, that when you hit them your tires can spread around and absorb without issue, if your pressure and sidewalls are enough... there are often stumps in some of the mud pits i've been through...
again back to the traction issue, if your truck gets hung up on a sharp rock, not even a big one, and it's in front of your tire, and you go to dig your way through what you think is mud, that tire is going to get sliced open... where as a low pressure tire might grab and climb over...
i hope this information helps you, i honestly think 20" is too big, they will be hard to find tires to fit them, but i understand not liking lots of tire...
good luck with your build, it looks like a good one, i can't wait to see how it turns out, and welcome to the site
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