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Geeshik
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 134
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Sheboygan Falls, WI
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.0
- Transmission
- Manual
4wd quit working this spring. Snow is on the way again, so today i went through thetransfercase troubleshooting techlibrary diagnosis steps once again and got a little farther through it. Last year this time, I replaced a good section of the constant power wire that feeds the transfer case computer. It had corrosion in it.
Anyway, I got to the part (3e) where it said to check the wires to the switch for continuity. If they are all less than 10 ohms, and they are, it says the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. At $183, this switch an expensive fix, I was just wondering if there was a more definite way to test it. I disassembled the switch itself to see if anything is obviously wrong. I see some solder joints, micro switches, and resistors and nothing looks obviously bad, but I cannot get the circuit board off of the back of the switch housing to check for any further problems (I suspect there are more resistors on the back side as there are at least 4 leads that pass through to the other side). Is there a trick to getting this board out of the housing. I know the terminals connect to the circuit board and pass through the plastic with a screw in the middle. I have removed the screw and am not having any luck. It's like it is glued to the plastic.
The other odd thing is that when I got to steps 3c and 3d, it was like the light on the switch was backwards from what the directions said. This was with the switch plugged in, both connectors unplugged from the module, the pigtail still plugged into it, and ignition on. Did I do something wrong? Also, the 4wd indicator light on the dash never comes on at all through any of this. Not even when i start the truck up.
I believe Chris1044 is the one who wrote up the section for '94 and older. Is he still around so I might pick his brain? I am wondering if anyone has a known working switch I might plug in to make sure mine is definitely bad. I'm not sure what I'll find in a junkyard.
Anyway, I got to the part (3e) where it said to check the wires to the switch for continuity. If they are all less than 10 ohms, and they are, it says the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. At $183, this switch an expensive fix, I was just wondering if there was a more definite way to test it. I disassembled the switch itself to see if anything is obviously wrong. I see some solder joints, micro switches, and resistors and nothing looks obviously bad, but I cannot get the circuit board off of the back of the switch housing to check for any further problems (I suspect there are more resistors on the back side as there are at least 4 leads that pass through to the other side). Is there a trick to getting this board out of the housing. I know the terminals connect to the circuit board and pass through the plastic with a screw in the middle. I have removed the screw and am not having any luck. It's like it is glued to the plastic.
The other odd thing is that when I got to steps 3c and 3d, it was like the light on the switch was backwards from what the directions said. This was with the switch plugged in, both connectors unplugged from the module, the pigtail still plugged into it, and ignition on. Did I do something wrong? Also, the 4wd indicator light on the dash never comes on at all through any of this. Not even when i start the truck up.
I believe Chris1044 is the one who wrote up the section for '94 and older. Is he still around so I might pick his brain? I am wondering if anyone has a known working switch I might plug in to make sure mine is definitely bad. I'm not sure what I'll find in a junkyard.
