94 ford ranger 4.0l intermit stall

[black_demon69]

ok happened again this time i had shut it off and about 15 min later would not start so i would try one thing at a time and like disconnecting and reconnecting any sensor plug i could find. each time would try to start then do next one try to start ect.... finally got to the ign control module and just wiggled the connector it started after that.



ps my bad maf does run when unplugged not die like previously stated..

im thinking now it is a connection issue with the ing module


will check maf voltage on sat

 

[black_demon69]

I would test the voltages at the MAF sensor
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech.../CleanMAF.html

link is no good

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

try this link

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.shtml


.

 

[black_demon69]

new symtoms

ok 106 today outside and it acted up again

noticed it would start but acted like it was loaded up backfired through intake just a little. removed air filter and was able to get it running but had to keep rpm to 1500 to 2000 and it was drivable but hesitated.

anyway i got it home and it was still acting up so i decided to cool engine off with hose and symptoms went away. definitely heat related .


any ideas

ps all voltages were fine to maf ect...

 

[Gilbee01]

There is a thread on here about putting in a bigger radiator. Just remember to take the hoses when it if you get one. The explorer hose has a curve to it that is needed.


-gil-

 

[black_demon69]

There is a thread on here about putting in a bigger radiator. Just remember to take the hoses when it if you get one. The explorer hose has a curve to it that is needed.


-gil-

engine not overheating it is something electrical.. just dont know what it is

i did run accross something suggesting that it could be a grounding issue with the ign control module so i re grounded and cleaned contacts.. hope it works.

 

[black_demon69]

ok somebody suggested that the injectors are sticking open due to galling (sticking open) of the injectors. suggested that i replace them

what do you think?

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

No...tough time believing that given your symptoms. Injectors are too pricey to jump so quickly with them.

I would agree with Ron...rig up some test lights to try and see what's happening (or not happening) real time when it has the issue.

 

[black_demon69]

No...tough time believing that given your symptoms. Injectors are too pricey to jump so quickly with them.

I would agree with Ron...rig up some test lights to try and see what's happening (or not happening) real time when it has the issue.

can get set of 6 reman Bosch injectors for $110

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

parts

Little cheaper than I thought.

 

[black_demon69]

Little cheaper than I thought.

even better they will buy my old ones for $20 a piece that's $120 so i will get paid $10 to replace them lol

 

[Ranger Heaven]

I also have a 94 with no EGR. I bought this truck new, have had it for almost 20 yrs now. I just replaced the engine, and am having a similar problem, but now that I think about it, it may have been doing it before I replaced the engine. I replaced the engine because it had 287,000 miles on it, not because of this problem. I drove it for a few months with the MAF sensor unplugged.
The truck doesn't want to start when cold. It starts right up, and dies. After 4 or 5 attempts, it will run. After driving it a few miles, when it reaches operating temperature, it will quit again. I unplugged the MAF sensor, and it will run, but rough.
I have performed the jumper wire test on the EEC plug shown in my repair manual. I am getting 2 different codes. One is 157, which my book says is low voltage to the MAF sensor. I have replaced the sensor 3 times, same problem. The other code is 998. My book says "hard fault present". I'm not sure, but believe it may be the ECU going out. I thought maybe it could be the PCM, but my local Ford dealer says that the PCM rarely ever goes out??? This may also be the source of my 157 code as well.
I am going to pull the ECU and take it to my local carquest auto parts. They said they will have it tested for free.......sounds good to me, as I don't know what "hard fault present" means, and my book doesn't tell me.
I don't know if we have the same problem, as you said you have replaced your ECU, but I will let you when I find my problem. I don't know if this helps, but I have bought bad "new" parts more than once. Maybe someone out there can shed some light on this subject.
Any help would be appreciated......scratching my as well, but determined to find the problem

 

[black_demon69]

I also have a 94 with no EGR. I bought this truck new, have had it for almost 20 yrs now. I just replaced the engine, and am having a similar problem, but now that I think about it, it may have been doing it before I replaced the engine. I replaced the engine because it had 287,000 miles on it, not because of this problem. I drove it for a few months with the MAF sensor unplugged.
The truck doesn't want to start when cold. It starts right up, and dies. After 4 or 5 attempts, it will run. After driving it a few miles, when it reaches operating temperature, it will quit again. I unplugged the MAF sensor, and it will run, but rough.
I have performed the jumper wire test on the EEC plug shown in my repair manual. I am getting 2 different codes. One is 157, which my book says is low voltage to the MAF sensor. I have replaced the sensor 3 times, same problem. The other code is 998. My book says "hard fault present". I'm not sure, but believe it may be the ECU going out. I thought maybe it could be the PCM, but my local Ford dealer says that the PCM rarely ever goes out??? This may also be the source of my 157 code as well.
I am going to pull the ECU and take it to my local carquest auto parts. They said they will have it tested for free.......sounds good to me, as I don't know what "hard fault present" means, and my book doesn't tell me.
I don't know if we have the same problem, as you said you have replaced your ECU, but I will let you when I find my problem. I don't know if this helps, but I have bought bad "new" parts more than once. Maybe someone out there can shed some light on this subject.
Any help would be appreciated......scratching my as well, but determined to find the problem

dont forget check the wiring and voltages to maf

i think ive narrowed my problem to injectors and heat.. we will see will be getting injectors soon.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Free Lunch?

even better they will buy my old ones for $20 a piece that's $120 so i will get paid $10 to replace them lol

And to think my mother told me "there is NO free lunch."

Why are they being so kind to you???


.

 

[black_demon69]

And to think my mother told me "there is NO free lunch."

Why are they being so kind to you???


.

found them on ebay